Will a non-mortise door hinge work on an external door?

It's brilliant to see the next project is already in the works.

You're correct that a solid core door such as the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC is going to be your best option, as you will need to cut it. They are also just better for entrances as they offer the best security and acoustic dampening possible.

A fast fix hinge, also known as a hirline or non-mortise hinge, will be fine, but you'll want to use at least 3 hinges, and I'd recommend using a ball bearing hinge such as these Austyle 100 x 47 x 2.5mm 304 Stainless Steel Fast Fix Non-Mortise Flush Hinge. As a solid core door is made of solid timber, it has a bit of weight to it, so these heavy-duty ball bearing hinges will handle the forces applied to them far greater than a cheaper hinge will.

I can't see a reason you couldn't swap to a modern hinge as long as the door jamb on the hinge side is at least wider than the door. This is because the new hinges will be installed on the inside of the door jamb, not the face, like the current hinges have been.

Removable pin and loose pin hinges are pretty much the same thing. They allow you to separate the hinge plates so the door can be removed for maintenance. A fixed pin is welded in place so this is not possible. It's not recommended that you use anything besides a fixed pin hinge on an entrance door as with loose or removable pin hinges as with some effort, the door has the potential to be lifted off the hinges from the outside.

I am unaware of any plans to stock the TP-Link DL110 at this point in time, but I have reached out via email to see if we can Special Order one through our stores. Bear with me, I will update you whenever I have a response.

Jacob

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like this door lock is available at this time.

You might like to check out our range of Smart Door Locks for an alternative.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/54465#Comment_54465

Hi @JacobZ (Jacob)

Thank you so much for your advice!

I've now ordered the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC door, which will hopefully be delivered next Tuesday or Thursday.

I picked up three of the Austyle 100 x 47 x 2.5mm Black Stainless Steel Fast Fix Non-Mortise Flush Hinge today, but I see you've marked four positions in the picture above. Would you suggest four will work best, or is three as good?

We've also ordered the Eufy Black Security Smart Lever Lock C33. So now we have the door, the hinges, smart lock with handle, and all I need to do is cut the door down with my circular saw.

I must admit that I'm a little concerned about the gap in between the doors because right now the knob of the wooden door only has about a 3-5mm gap before it touches the screen door.

What could possibly go wrong! 🤣

Cheers,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89473#Comment_89473

The four arrows were not intended as the location of the hinges. I think I just got carried away drawing them. Apologies if this was unclear.

Three hinges will be fine. One at the top, 150mm from the top of the door, one in the middle, one at the bottom, 150mm from the bottom and one in the middle centred between the two.

Trust yourself, I am sure you'll nail it.

Let me know if you have any other questions along the way.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110541#Comment_110541

G'day Jacob @JacobZ

Our front doorway has 2 vertical timber studs forming the 'door jamb', and the width at the top is 810mm, and the bottom 815mm. I'd prefer to not have to cut the door to size on an angle, so I'm wondering if I'd be able to 'pack out' the bottom hinge, or if there is some other way? I watched the 'how to hang a door' and 'how to install a door jamb' video's. I'm unsure about putting one side of a jamb and packing it out it because it would make the door even smaller, plus I assume anyone could come along with a crow bar and jimmy the nails out (although I'll be using screws)? 🤔

Cheers,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122658#Comment_122658

Unfortunately, simply packing out the location of the hinge would look pretty strange, so it is out.

In my eyes, there are three possible options: cut the door on an angle, plane back the studs, or add a jamb.

Cutting the door at an angle would be the simplest, and from experience, you won't really notice it. As long as the stud is straight and not bowed in the middle, this would be as simple as marking the width at the bottom of the door and the width at the top, then tracing the line between them to cut.

You could also plane back the stud with an electric planer. 5mm wouldn't be too detrimental to the strength of the stud, but you would have to consider this.

The other option is to attach some jamb material, such as this 92 x 11mm, then pack out the bottom so it is perfectly square. You can then cover the seam between the jamb and the stud with a trim such as this 18 x 11mm.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130501#Comment_130501

Thanks Jacob.

I’ll have to think about these options. The last one you mentioned, the 18x11mm says it’s no longer available. Is there anything else I could use instead?

Cheers,

Jason

As our timber suppliers are often regional, the specific timber I linked to may not be available in your area.

You can use any timber trim that will fit on the front of the jamb without poking out into the door opening.

Something like 18x11mm or 31x11mm should work.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/54520#Comment_54520

G'day @JacobZ

I've just had a chat with my builder and after doing a few more measurements we've worked out that the studs on both sides of the door are bowed inwards ever so slightly at the top and bottom. I questioned the ability to plane off the studs, move the hinges, cutting the door on an angle, and when we got talking about the 2-3mm that it needs here and there, I've decided to give him the job of hanging it. He's got all the pro tools and door lifters etc., so I'd feel more comfortable doing that. In any case, I've got the door and all the hardware, so it's just the skillset and methods I lack to do this gig. The great thing about my builder is that he has me help him on every job, so I learn as I go. Many AHA! moments.

Now I've burnt my eggs because I forgot I had them on whilst I was focused on typing this HAHAHA 🤣

Cheers,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89507#Comment_89507

There is certainly an art to hanging a door, especially when you are retrofitting one to an opening. Getting the spacing around the door and the shadow line perfect can be tricky.

I'd be intrigued to hear what method your builder goes with.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110552#Comment_110552

G'day @JacobZ

We got our door delivered today, which is great. Now, my husband and I are busting our chops to have a go at getting it installed.

Yes, I can run a circular saw across the top and the bottom. No, the door will not fit within the existing frame due to the chunky Eufy Black Security Smart Lever Lock C33 we've chosen, which is 80mm deep!!

The handle will hit the inside of the screen door. In fact the current wooden door knob is 35mm deep, and it almost touches. I'm a tad miffed with the lack of installation details on the outside of this locks box because we may have opted for something a little shallower had it had spec's on it.

Anyway, we've opened it now, and we want to have a crack. The good news is this old place is ripe for doing whatever the hell you want to, so we may just throw some extra wood against the stud on the insides with bugle screws and see how that goes. There's room to do that, and if it works, we will get some dressed hardwood and make it permanent.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122694#Comment_122694

Hello @BoeingFan

As a possible alternative, have you considered moving the screen door instead? But if it sticks too far out, I'm afraid your only choice is to move the door inwards by 50mm to provide space for the door lock. Please remember that you always have the choice of exchanging the lock for something that suit your needs.

Looking forward to seeing the new door installed.

Eric

Hi All,

OK, so the door us hung (hello sailor!).. There's one in every crowd 😂

We managed to find some old hardwood 3x2's to put down the left side (looking out) to bulk up the frame and to accommodate the lock, and we used some of the leftover spotted gum behind the hinges. So, my circular saw skills have been confirmed as woeful, but it is what it is.

Question, please... Have I put the hinges on the wrong way? I had one of those self centering jigs for the drill, bit because I was drilling in a cavity which was too small to fit the whole drill, I had to go in on an angle. I have a sneaking suspicion that the hinges need to be flipped top to bottom so that the round pin bit of the hing is on the inside of the house, rather than facing outwards, if that makes sense. Pic's below.

Thanks in advance.

Yep, here it is. Not bad eh?Does this need to be flipped over?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/54794#Comment_54794

Unfortunately, yes, you have put the hinges on the wrong way.

You can tell that the screws are not installed in the right face of the hinge because they are not sitting in the countersinks on the hinge plate.

They are supposed to sit on the inside face of the door jamb, not the outside face of the architrave.

You can actually see how they are supposed to be on the door to the left. From the inside of the door, when it is closed, only the hinge pin should be visible.

You'll have to unscrew the hinges and give it another go.

Let me know if you have any issues so I can assist further.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89651#Comment_89651

Hi @JacobZ

I understand that I've put the jamb leaf on in a fashion differently to what is typical, but I have 2 questions;

Does the installation I've used compromise the hinge at all, or is it still fine?
Do the hinges need to be flipped on the horizontal plane so that the pin is inside the house, rather than the rear flush side of the hinge being inside the house, or does that not matter?

Thanks,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110650#Comment_110650

I can't say I'm sure whether it would compromise the hinge because I can't say I've ever installed hinges like that. From memory, the interior plate on a hirline hinge can spin 360 degrees without interference, so it should, in theory, be fine, although it is not a typical installation.

You are probably in the best position to answer this question.

If you swing the door open as far as it will go, do you feel any tension in the hinges? Do you hear any squeaking? Does the door pull itself back towards a closed position without you touching it?

If you experience any of these things, then the hinges could be under tension that would, over time, weaken them.

I understand you had to install timbers to account for the new smart lock, but is there any reason you can't install the hinge in a typical fashion?

I'm not 100% certain what you mean in your second question, but the pin should always be on the inside of the house. If it is on the outside of the house, it would be a security risk as someone could break the hinges to gain access to your home.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122710#Comment_122710

Hi @JacobZ

Thanks for your reply. I know it's not the 'typical' installation; the good news is that the door swung beautifully and freely.

I should have used the term 'horizontal axis' instead of 'horizontal plane' to make my question clearer, however as you can see in the photo below, I'm wondering whether the hinge should be flipped so that the pin is on the other side of it's current position?

Cheers.

which side of the hing plate should the pin be?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130537#Comment_130537

Usually, it would be on the other side of the pin, which is evidenced by the location of the countersinks on the hinge plate. If you were to flip it, it would make the door sit further out from the opening, so if you're happy with it how it is, I would just leave it.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135382#Comment_135382

Hi @JacobZ and @EricL

May I ask, when I paint the door, I'm using wooden horses to lay it on. After painting one side, before turning it over and having the painted side resting on the horses, do I use the 'touch dry' time (20 minutes), or the 're-coat' time (2 hours)?

Thanks.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138632#Comment_138632

The less time you give it, the more likely it is to stick to the sawhorses and peel when it's lifted. I'd give it two hours.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138632#Comment_138632

Hi @BoeingFan

Due to the cold weather, it will take paint much longer to cure, I suggest waiting the two hours as Jacob has suggested. Remember to touch the surface of the paint and move it side to side, if the interior of the paint is still soft you will feel the paint surface move. This is an indication that it is only surface dry, and the interior section is still wet. If that is the case, I suggest waiting longer and if you get a chance leave it out in the sun.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi All,

So we've got the door hung, and it's almost perfectly level; happy with that.

Now, we need the thin bit of timber frame that butts up against the wooden door, in between the screen door and the wooden door. The void is 80mm x 10mm. What could I use to nail onto the stud?

Thanks so much.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/54883#Comment_54883

Do you mean the door stop?

The piece of timber that the door hits against when it closes?

If so, then they usually use this 31 x 18mm 5.4m H3 Treated Pine FJ DAR Primed LOSP, and they usually sit in a trench and are attached with brad nails.

In your case, because they wouldn't be trenched in, I would suggest using 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Rib Head Timber Screws as they will be a bit more resistant to an unintentionally slammed door than nails are.

You can drill a pilot hole, then use a countersink bit so the screw heads will sit below the surface of the timber. You can then cover the screwheads with Spakfilla, give it a sand and then paint over the top.

Let me know what you think and if I have interpreted wrong, please let me know so I can assist further.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89692#Comment_89692

Hi All,

Yes, the piece of timber that the door hits when it closes. We've spent the morning re-hanging the door, and getting the bulky door frame squared up to make sure the gaps around the door are as level and minimal as we can get them.

Given that we are building our own 'jamb', I've just hit a couple of issues, one notable:

As you're aware, this is an old house and barely anything is straight. We've used some 70*45mm H3 pine (shudder) to build an internal frame onto the existing studs to increase the distance between the screen and the wooden door, due to the bulky door handle we chose. Now I intend to put some Porta 41x18mm 2.4m DAR Rectangle Meranti against the door on the outside to create the jamb, but I need to make the bottom half of the frame flush with the old stud so I can install the jamb nice and flush. Would a sander with a really coarse grit be a good way to get rid of about 4mm depth of the H3 pine to flush it up with the old stud? Or a chisel?
Second thing; as I mentioned earlier, we bought the Eufy Black Security Smart Lever Lock C33. I've just realised that when the door is closed and locked, you can still slide a spatula up against the lock catch and it simply depresses the latch and opens the door, even with all of the privacy and locked down modes active. Without an external jamb, with all the unlocking methods the C33 has, none of them stop the catch from being physically depressed. This concerns me greatly, given that the only defence to a break in really seems to be the jamb. If this is the case, and other locks do not suffer the same ease of access, I am inclined to exchange the C33 for something else. I'd appreciate your thoughts please.

Thanks.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110698#Comment_110698

Hello @BoeingFan (Jason)

I suggest using the Craftright 3 Piece Wood Chisel Set or similar to remove the 4mm from the pine timber. In regards to the smart lock, you are correct the door jamb is the only thing preventing someone from inserting a spatula into the gap. In order to give the door jamb a fighting chance, I suggest looking at using Metal Mate 25 x 25 x 3mm 3m Galvanised Steel Angle as the door jamb on one side only. I suggest using a mixture of screws from hex head to Allen key type sets. This will prevent it from getting easily removed.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122730#Comment_122730

Good Evening @BoeingFan

Ive been rolling through this thread and yeah I know how stressy it is hanging a door,

I really like @EricL's sugestion of using the metalmate angle iron, I would even countersink the screw holes and use countersunk screws to give a really nice finish. The metal angle will make it secure. I also did not think of using different types of screw heads, thats a cleaver idea and I am filing it away for future use 🙂

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122730#Comment_122730

Hi @EricL ,

May I ask how I would install the metal mate as the door jamb? I’m sorry if it’s a stupid question but I just can’t see how it would go on.

Cheers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130554#Comment_130554

Hello @BoeingFan

Here is a quick sketch of the jamb. It's basically anchored onto your door frame with really strong screws.

If you have any other questions, please let us know.

Eric