How to build new garage doors?

Hi All,

I have an old 3150mm x 5400w timber shed, build from nothing more than 6 ~8-10" posts, with side and top rails. For perspective, from herein I'll be expressing posts etc. as though we're standing on the outside of the shed looking at the front door closed.

About 30 years ago I built the door shown below, with 2x5" hardwood; this proved to be a mistake because being hinged on only one side, the weight of the door is pulling the right hand side post over, and slightly twisting the shed. The roof of the shed has a slant downward from right to left, for rainwater run off. The corrugated iron is screwed on with roofing zips or roofing nails.

So, I need to build new doors, and this time have them open from the middle, and each be hinged to their respective post. The measurements are 3150mm outside to outside of each post, or just under 2860mm inside to inside. I'd love to have metal frames, and bolt some time slats on the inside which I could screw the existing corrugated iron to, otherwise I'll build some timber frames. The existing hinges are the old lift on lift off gate type. I'm happy to look at keeping them, or replacing them with something more secure. Thoughts here please?

Door outsideDoor frameDoor hinges

I don't know how I'm going to get the front of the shed pulled back to straight (is this called plumb?), but I could get my neighbour to hook up his Nissan Patrol's winch and ease it back. The issue here is that I then don't know how to brace it. I'm going to lean on you all here.

Please tell me your thoughts. I'm looking for something DIY, strong, and light.

Thanks,

Jason

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EricL

Hi @BoeingFan

Have you considered cutting the door into four sections so that it folds like an accordion (two leaves on each side). You can still use the same materials, and it should lessen the weight on the right-hand side of the shed. As to bringing it back to square, using a winch is a great idea, just make sure that you are prepared to position the bracing timber pieces in place to keep the shed square.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @BoeingFan

The door itself still looks in excellent condition. You would need to first remove that and to straighten the shed with your mate. Then potentially you could refit the same door but with one of these support wheel systems to take much of the load off the hinges. Use the arc of the door as it's opened to mark the ground. Then I would dig a small trench and lay fine stones with cement dust. This will give a more solid base for the wheel to track along than soft ground. Alternatively lay pavers or even sleepers on their side would work. Even spare ones you may have lying about. You will want to ensure the track level is within the travel distant of the support wheel.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Good Morning @BoeingFan

How far out of plumb are the posts? And that door looks to be pretty solid for being built all those years ago 🙂 Hardwood just lasts!

If the posts are not to far out of plumb I would leave them, If you try and pull them to straighten them It may create a loose post. If the post is a long way out then try it as there is nothingto loose.

I would remove the door/gate

I would install two new pieces either side of that vertical middle support.

Then remove the middle support.

Remove the front middle sheet of tin.

Slice through the two rails with your circular saw.

I would also take off a little of the bottom tin, just to make it easier to close.

Install some new fence post hinges on the second post.

Then remount the doors, plus the wheeled support that @Nailbag has mentioned.

You could have the tin overlap in the middle so it forms a weather seal when you close one door first and the second door then overlaps by a a few inches (10cm)

Dave

AlanM52

Hi @BoeingFan,

Remove the door.

Preliminary inspection.

Check the condition of the posts below ground by digging out a fair amount around each one, in particular the right.

If there are signs of rotting you now need to consider if they will hold up when the shed is winched plumb to the right.

Prepare bracing timber and of course go slow.

I would even consider another new post on the right of the existing one to act as the main anchor point.

The door and hinges are fine and I would do the support wheel thing as @Nailbag suggested.

Cheers

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