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What balustrade timber?

jaydenRadisich

Hi All,

I’m looking to add a balustrade to my deck and would appreciate some advice.

Deck size: 4480mm (wide) x 1690mm (deep), with stairs approx. 1070mm
Slat height: approx. 800mm high
(Note: the drop-off is less than 600mm, so a balustrade isn’t required by code, but I’d like to install one as a safety precaution to prevent accidental falls.)
Style: Vertical timber slats

I’m looking for recommendations on the following:

Suitable post size
Appropriate post brackets (to be bolted into a concrete deck)
Horizontal rail timber size [Notching into posts]
Recommended maximum span between posts for stability
Ideal vertical slat size (I was thinking around [92x18 mm]

If you need any more information to make suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks in advance for your help! Deck Setout.png Front D,eck.jpg

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Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @jaydenRadisich,

You could go with 1800mm as a max span between posts, and for those, I would suggest 88 x 88mm 2.4m H3 LOSP Treated & Primed Laminated FJ Pine Post. Anything less than 1800mm would add to rigidity. For the brackets, you can use Vuepro 90mm Stainless Steel Bolt Down Post Support.

For handrails, we have 85 x 42mm 5.4m Baluster Handrail H3 Pink Pine FJ Primed Ladies Waist Rebated LOSP. This 92 x 18mm 5.4m FJ PR4 Primed LOSP H3 Treated Pine would be perfect for the vertical slats, and this 66 x 42mm 5.4m Baluster Bottom Rail H3 Pink Pine FJ Primed EBR4 LOSP for your bottom rail.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/56937#Comment_56937

Hi @MitchellMc

thanks for the fast response 🙂

posts and bolt down supports look to be perfect

i dont want to use a top and bottom rail, looking for more the slat type instead of the top/bottom rail look

which would mean i would have to use vertical timber for eg 200mm down from top and 200 up from bottom all the way around then the slats will screw to these

would you know what i could use for these ? [please refer to the 2nd last photo for reference on what i want it to look like]

Thanks again !!

MitchellMc

Hi @jaydenRadisich,

You'd need to use something quite solid, like 90 x 42mm 3.6m F7 H3 Treated Pine Primed LOSP - 3.6m. Even then, it would probably need to be supported every 900mm.

Would you then attach the 92 x 18mm to that? The image appears to have thin batons rather than wider boards.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/56941#Comment_56941

Hi @MitchellMc

looking to achieve something like the below [hope this makes a bit more sense] i drew that drawing to scale thats why it looks a little bit weird

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/90759#Comment_90759

Now I see @jaydenRadisich. I think 90 x 42mm would be a good idea for rails if you are looking to place posts at 1800mm. If you went down to 1500mm, you could get away with 66 x 40mm rails, but you'll probably need a chock under the bottom rail at the midway point for support.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/111303#Comment_111303

Thanks @MitchellMc

think i will go with the following

Posts : 88 x 88mm

Brackets : VUEPRO 90mm Galvanised Tradies Bolt Down Post Support.

Rails : 90 x 42mm

Slats : 92 x 18mm

do you think that a gap of 36mm inbetween slats would make it look similar to the photo i attached [was thinking of having two boards together to use for the gap] ?

Lastly, what screws would you recoend for the slats ? or would you recomend a nail gun [ i have the Ryobi 18V ONE+ Li-Ion Cordless Nail Gun ] or would screws last longer etc

Thanks 🙂

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123077#Comment_123077

I've created a rendering using those materials and the 36mm gap @jaydenRadisich. That will give you a better idea of what it will look like.

I'd recommend Zenith 10 - 8 x 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Rib Head Timber Screws. Brads will typically rust in external environments, unless you use stainless steel brads. Even then, screws are the more secure fixing method.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130776#Comment_130776

Perfect, looks great !! [what program do you use to render this ?]

and also, im about 500m to the beach, would i possibly opt to using a Stainless Steel screw instead of galvanised ?

Thanks

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135519#Comment_135519

I use a program called Tinkercad @jaydenRadisich.

Stainless steel screws would be a great idea. Will you be painting over them? My only concern is that you typically find 304 stainless, which is fine for exterior applications. However, for close proximity to the beach, you'd really want to go to 316, which provides much higher resistance to pitting and corrosion from chlorides (salt). Our Special Order team in-store can take a look for you to see if we can order some in.

If you are painting over the screws, the grade of stainless becomes much less of a concern.

Mitchell

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135519#Comment_135519

Hi @jaydenRadisich,

I've just been chatting with the Veupro team, and we believe that using the stainless steel bracket would be a better choice instead of the galvanised version. I've updated my original post to reflect this.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138736#Comment_138736

Hi @MitchellMc

on top of the above, im wanting to use the White Knight Ultra Pave Quick Dry Paint on the concrete deck, i did speak to someone in store and they said to clean with a stong detergent/degreaser. could yourself or you tag someone in to help me find a product suitable. i want to paint this before all the pickets for the balustrade go on 🙂

Also i have some small gaps between the house and the concrete [deck], what would you recomend [in a silicone tube] to fill these gaps before painting the deck

Thanks for all your help, please see some progress shots 😉

Balustrade 1.jpg Balustrade 2.jpg

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140898#Comment_140898

Hi @jaydenRadisich,

Great work so far!

I couldn't find any reference to a detergent/degreaser in the preparation steps for that product. They are as follows:

ROUGH CONCRETE (new, old or bare)

Scrub the surface with a stiff bristle broom to remove any loose residue then rinse thoroughly with a strong water jet (eg garden or pressure hose).
Test for loose residue with adhesive tape. If loose material is picked up on the tape repeat the cleaning process.
Allow concrete to dry completely.

Using a detergent/degreaser is a good idea before coating a soiled garage floor. My concern with using one here is that any residual cleaner left on the surface could compromise the coating. It's best to stick to the preparation steps recommended by the manufacturer. Are there any obvious grease or oil stains on the concrete that concern you? If so, you can use Chemtech 1L Concrete And Driveway Cleaner.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

jaydenRadisich

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142477#Comment_142477

Hi @MitchellMc

Thanks 🙂 getting there slowly haha

okay perfect 🙂 no, there are no stains, grease or oil stans so thats fine 🙂

also did you have a recomendation on the small gaps between the house and the concrete [deck], what would you recomend [in a silicone tube] to fill these gaps before painting the deck

Thanks again for all your help 🙂

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143593#Comment_143593

Oh, sorry @jaydenRadisich,

I'd go with Sikaflex 11FC as it's the superior product for gaps like this.

Mitchell

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