How to build deck around garden tap?

snipwhip

Hi all,

I'm looking to construct a low level free standing deck using custom good times frames and long decking about 5.7m x 1.8m (see rough outline in first pic). There is a small concrete patio about 2350x900 that's about 50mm above the garden level under the existing deck (which we are replacing). The new deck will similarly be just 10-30mm above the patio. As it extends into the garden,  the highest point will be no more than 250 -300mm off the ground as the garden slopes slightly away from the house and has no drainage issue. Some questions I have:

1) As the ground slopes slightly away from the house, I would like the deck as low as possible so our heads aren't sticking too high above the fence when we stand at the high edge. Can I use 70 x 45 frame (instead of 90 x 45) for this to save 20mm? Also can I use L brackets as "legs" to keep the deck 20mm off the patio? The other parts of the deck will have adjustable legs but the initial height will be measured from the patio. I will build a ~100mm step onto the deck from the house. 

2) there's a tap along the wall. What are my options? I was thinking of cutting into the deck and build a removable access square deck section around the tap and gully (?) for service access? Are there rules around this?  I was then going to attach a retractable hose reel and move the hose reel around the corner. I would rather not have to move the tap to save $ though if I move it around the corner about 2m away it might not cost much?

Any advice welcome! Thanks!

JacobZ

Hi @snipwhip,

It's brilliant to hear you are planning to construct a deck using the Good Times Decking frames.

If you are planning to use the prebuilt frames, then it is best to use their Modular Decking Adjustable Support Foot, as this will ensure it is in line with the requirements of their system. In saying this, if you set the frame on packers like this Titan 10 x 72 x 100 mm Black Shim Packing, then attach the frame to the ground with angle brackets, then you shouldn't lose any real strength, but the frame must sit on the packers, not just angle brackets. This is so the load is transferred straight down, rather than sideways through screws.

With the tap and wastewater connection, I think the best approach is to have a plumber extend the wastewater outlet up, so it is flush with the deck, then install the decking around it. This would likely require you to cut a section out of the deck frame and install some additional blocking, but this wouldn't be too difficult. This would ensure that any water still gets into the wastewater pipe and would allow access to it if there is any need for it. If there is any reason you need access to the copper pipe that is feeding the hose, a plumber could just remove the decking boards to gain access, then reinstall them when they are done.

Allow me to tag @AlanM52 and @Nailbag to see what they think.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Jacob