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How to replace wood on stools for outdoor use?

Hello community. I picked up these stools from a footpath giveaway - the twisty metal bases remind me of the little chairs people make from the wire around champagne corks. They are in a state. The existing seats are screwed in and peeling off in layers from water damage. I plan to repaint the bases, replace the seats, and sit them under a tree in the garden. How would you recommend I do the seats, and which wood is best for the elements? I have a woodworker friend who I think will help with the sawing if I can bring the right materials. Thank you for any advice.

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Comments

EricL

Hello @AlisonWonder

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your timber stools.

I suggest investigating the bottom of the stools and see if they are attached with a screw or with another type of fixing. If it is a flat head screw, I suggest using a standard flathead screwdriver and removing the screws one by one. If they prove to be stuck spray each screw with WD40 and let it soak for a few minutes before trying again.

Once you have removed the old timber seat look carefully how it was attached or if the timber seat has a nut assembly attached to the bottom of the seat. If you wish to copy the fixing method, make sure to look carefully how the nut was anchored to the timber seat. If you wish to modify the fixing and use a nut and bolt assembly, I suggest looking at a Cup Head nut and bolt assembly. Its round head will prevent clothing from getting snagged on its head.

As an alternative, I would like to suggest using 1800 x 600 x 18mm Merbau Multi-Use Panel it is rated for indoor and outdoor use. The seat can be oiled or sealed with a clear sealer. But the wood itself will be robust enough for outdoor use. I propose using the old seat as a template and trace the shape of the seat onto the new timber panel. An alternative is to use a large compass or string and pencil to create a circular shape.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

AlisonWonder

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/58969#Comment_58969

Thank you Eric. This is incredibly helpful.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/91861#Comment_91861

Good Eveing @AlisonWonder

Nice score! 🙂 They will look great with a new seat on them.

@EricL 's instructions on how to remove the old timber I would follow. The replacement idea I have is still merbau but not a solid Merbau.

I am thinking that the seat will have 4 screws underneath. If you have a piece of Merbau decking that spans two of the holes you create a rail tro attach the top level of merbau boards. It will be square yes, but then you would use a jigsaw to cut the round circle out before screwing the finishe piece to the chair frame.

So two pieces of timber maybe 40cm long that span between two of the underside crosses (diagonal like a diamond) then laid over them to form a square 4 more pieces at right angles to form a small decking square. Then you can turn the metal frame upside down, mark out the circumfrence, decide if you want it bigger or the same and jigsaw the excess away.

If its hard to picture let me know and I will sketch the idea up.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @AlisonWonder

Being outdoor exposed to the elements, I would be using marine plywood designed for this exact purpose. You can use the existing seats as a template to trace new seats to cut with a jigsaw.

Alternatively Formply which is the same material but all black would also work. bare in mind you will need to sand an indent within the tops to replicate the non-flat surface of the originals.

Nailbag

AlisonWonder

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/111947#Comment_111947

Thank youso much @Dave-1 for taking the time to step this out. Is the rail to make the attachment between seat and base more stable? I'm afraid I can't picture it, so if you are willing to sketch it up that would be wonderful.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123480#Comment_123480

Hello @AlisonWonder

Let me tag @Dave-1 as well to make sure he is aware of your query. I'm curious to see his idea as well.

Eric

AlisonWonder

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/58982#Comment_58982

Thank you @Nailbag. Is marine plywood better for outdoors than the earlier suggestions of merbau?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/91910#Comment_91910

Hello @AlisonWonder

If you’re replacing a stool seat, both marine plywood and merbau could work, but one is usually the more practical and comfortable choice.

For most stool projects, marine plywood is the better option. It’s strong, smooth, and lightweight, which makes it easy to cut into a circular or square seat shape. Because it’s made with waterproof glue and durable hardwood veneers, it holds up well even if the stool is used outdoors or in a humid spot like a kitchen or patio. You can sand it down to a really nice finish, then paint, stain, or varnish it to suit your style. If you want extra comfort, it’s also easy to screw on a seat pad or upholstery over marine plywood. Just remember to seal the edges so moisture can’t seep in, especially if the stool will be used outside.

Merbau, on the other hand, is a solid hardwood that’s very tough and beautiful, but it’s also heavy and harder to work with. It can look stunning if you’re going for a natural timber seat, but it might not be ideal for a stool that gets moved around often or one that needs to stay lightweight. You’d also need to make sure it’s well sanded and sealed so it doesn’t splinter or stain.

So, if you’re after something practical, smooth, and easy to finish, marine plywood is your best bet. If you prefer a natural timber look and don’t mind a bit of extra work, merbau can give you a premium, long-lasting seat.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/91910#Comment_91910

Hi @AlisonWonder

I agree with @EricL and go with the Marine ply. Though both as good, the ply is a softer timber and you could far easily sand a softer edge and create a deeper sitting area with a powered sander. Plus with its lighter colour, have more options on colour oiling.

Nailbag

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/111981#Comment_111981

Good Morning @AlisonWonder

Yeah the weight is something I hadnt really thought of either. 😲 I still like the idea of Merbau and will sketch it up after Mornos when my work day slows a little 🙂 But having a top heavy stool is something to factor in.

Dave

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123484#Comment_123484

Good Morning @AlisonWonder

Just did a couple of sketches, I actually dont think it will be too heavy on top anymore, It will be heavyish but maybe 1 and a half times the marine ply 🙂 Not that Im trying to sell the idea 🙂

01 06-11-2025.jpg

So we have the top of the seat with its cross supports with existing holes in the metal.

We will reuse these holes and use countersunk bolts to hold the two pieces of timber across the seat. (so the heads of the bolts will sit flush, alternativly you could use timber screws up from underneath and no need for a bolt.)

Note - pre drill the screw holes with a pilot drill.

These merbau pieces are run at an angle to the metal cross on top of the seat.

02 06-11-2025.jpg

Once the two pieces have been bolted/screwed to the seat, then we add 4 ish of timber slats between the two base supports, screw them in.

You will end up with a square top, its ok but if you wnat round then the next steps are for you.

As you have two seats (handy) you can then turn the empty one upsidedown and in pencil mark out where the metal ring is on the top of the seat. (Green dash line) Then you can expand that ring with another one (pink dash)

Using a jigsaw then cut the merbau to fit a little larger (pink ring) so you end up with an overlapping edge.

Note you may need to mark the pieces first, then remove to cut. plus the two rails may need to be marked seperatly (due to thickness of the timber)

Dave

AlisonWonder

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131042#Comment_131042

@Dave-1 Thank you. I'm so grateful that you've done this and I'm glad I came to the community. I will show you when the stools are finished (or partway through if I have questions!). Thank you again.

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