How to sand deck with nails sticking out?

Hello @bodega

I propose using a Craftright 3 Piece Nail Set Punch to sink the nails further into the decking panel. This will prevent the sandpaper from hooking into the nail head and tearing itself apart. A belt sander is more effective for detailing and tight spaces, but for large areas, it's best to get a for hire machine. Since your deck is medium sized, it would be worth hiring a For Hire: Orbital Floor Sander - 24hr as it makes sanding a breeze and shortens the sanding time by a large margin,

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Noyade and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/59472#Comment_59472

Thanks @EricL - always very helpful.

Do you know what type of sander I’ll use for the small tighter areas? There is a small bench on the right hand side as well as some tight corners near the fence side.

I might need a small sander in the future for furniture projects as well so don’t mind buying one for now, I’m on Ryobi tools system

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/59472#Comment_59472

@EricL sorry. Forgot to ask, I was thinking of storing a few things underneath the deck so wouldn’t mind converting some of the planks to screws- which screws do you recommend?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/92150#Comment_92150

Good Morning @bodega

I was thinking of a nail punch set as well. Just to get the nail heads abck below the surface. Is the deck Pine or hardwood? If you can push a philips head into the timber a little its probarlly going to be pine, if not then its a fair chance its a hardwood. The reason I ask is it could be harder to hammer the nails further in if its hardwood.

My deck is around the 4m * 4m I used an Ozito cordered belt sander and it worked well. My screws were level with the timber boards tho looking back to when I installed it I should have had installed so the head of the screw is lower as it created issues while sanding.

Hardwood deck restoration is the project.

I am not sure what you mean by storing something underneath the decking timbers and using screws? I do know that over the life of a board being screwed down the fluculations of dampness, heat, age all make the screw into timber like steel. There is no way I can shift my screws out of the boards without them shearing off. I have tried lol My timber boards are merbau? and the supports are all old hardwood from houses that have been torn down.

If you are thinking of a trapdoor stye idea, then yes as long as you frame it up with supports so there is no bouncyness when you walk over it 🙂

So my vote as your nails will probarlly still be a little high is a small corded belt sander and take your time 🙂 Your boards dont seem to have cupping which is really good as it makes sanding a lot easier.

Dave

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/92150#Comment_92150

Hi @bodega,

For those tight areas, you can use a Ryobi 18V ONE+ Palm Sander RPS18. The pointed shape will allow you to get into tight corners, which will make your life a whole lot easier.

For screws, you could use either these Titan 10G x 50mm 304 Stainless Steel Decking Screws or these Titan 10G x 50mm Weather Force Decking Screws. If you're near the ocean or have a swimming pool, stainless steel would be better.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

When punching the nail heads down, they will need to be min 2mm below the surface which, allows for a layer off the top of the decking boards.

As @EricL rightly suggested, a belt sander is the correct sander for this job if you're not going to hire one which, I too would highly recommend for the size of the deck. You mentioned you're already in the Ryobi ONE+ system this would be the model. However unless you have several batteries min 6Ahr then you're going to chew through them faster than you can recharge. Probably around 10-15min as you do need to apply some weight to the tool during use which loads the motor. A corded one would be a better choice for this application. But being a DIY model it should used for more than 30min at a time with a 10min cool down cycle to preserve the motor from over-heating.

Bear in mind, belt-sanders are not a sander you would typically use often enough to warranty buying one. In decades of reno and property maintenance, I have used one about 3 times and then I borrowed one.

There are decking sanding services that utilise a Terrassen wire-dream sanding machine that sand the tops off the nail heads at the same time. They don't leave as smooth a finish as traditional sanders, but effective all the same. However these services can be pricey as the machine itself is I think around $60K

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/59506#Comment_59506

Thanks @Nailbag @JacobZ @Dave-1 @EricL - appreciate all your replies.

So in summary, best option is to hire an orbital sander, otherwise use belt sanders suggested. Good comment about the batteries, I didn’t think of how quickly I’d use up their charge.

I think I might go ahead with hiring an orbital sander to get it done quickly, then get a palm sander for tight corners and use on future projects.

Will need to check if hardwood or softwood, I think hardwood so I’ll have to see how the nail punch goes. Not sure what I’ll do if I can’t punch them down further???

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/92179#Comment_92179

What you're hiring is actually a giant belt sander not orbital so far more efficient. I would invest in a random orbital sander in lieu of a palm. Far more efficient and versatile tool capable of rapid to fine stock removal and finish. This is my go to sander for most jobs then on occasion my finishing detail palm sander similar to this.

Your boards are hardwood probably Merbau.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112146#Comment_112146

Thanks @Nailbag

Reason I was thinking of hiring an orbital sander is I read they can handle the raised nails a bit better. Not sure how I can get them down much further as they have a curved top and aren’t counter sunk.

If you think the hire belt sander will still do the trick I’m open to it, just double checking everything before starting.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123580#Comment_123580

I can only suggest trying to countersink the nails first to see if they go down any further. It will save you a lot of heartache and sandpaper if the surface is nice and flat.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131094#Comment_131094

Thanks @EricL - can confirm this is Merbau decking wood, I'm really not sure if the nails will go down further but I'll try with a new set of nail punches.

If they don't go below the surface, what other options do I have?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135713#Comment_135713

You might need to get a bit creative and use a heavy-duty punch or something similar so that you can drive the head at least to its original level. A heavier hammer perhaps to drive the nail into the hardwood frame?

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123580#Comment_123580

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131095#Comment_131095

Go the orbital as I think it will be less aggressive and leave a smoother finish as your boards don't look that bad.. As far as being more forgiving with nail heads, your nails should be well punched in anyway.

I'm doing a lot of deck re-oiling at the moment and I'm wondering if yours needs sanding at all? Though it might be a waste of time and money, but it might also save that and more by using this deck Ultra-prep product and a pressure washer. If you follow the directions it can make an amazing difference in removing a top layer of the flaky surface and bring the wood grain backup. I would still knock the nail heads down but just with your hammer.

Check out the photos below. This deck looks like it was in the same condition yours is in now.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Morning @bodega

One of the reasons I went with a small belt sander was so I could work between the screwheads as there was no way I could make them move (deeper or remove them totally) It was fiddly and not the best way but I would have run up against the screw heads destroying the sanding belt all the time.

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138851#Comment_138851

Hi @EricL @Nailbag @Dave-1

Quick update on my end.

Managed to punch the nails down, ended up getting a heavy duty 5mm nail punch which did the trick, was not easy though but we got there.

Next up, sanding. Still deciding if I use belt sander or hire an orbital or belt sander.

First question - what grit sandpaper should I be using?

Thanks again!

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140971#Comment_140971

Hello @bodega

Thank you for sharing that update. It's good to hear that you managed to sink the nail heads down into the decking panels. I still suggest using the For Hire: Orbital Floor Sander - 24hr as recommended in my post. I propose starting with a 40grit sandpaper and working up to 60grit and finishing with a 160grit or higher for a smooth finish.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142529#Comment_142529

Thanks @EricL - any idea how much sandpaper I might go through? Should I purchase extra when hiring the sander?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143635#Comment_143635

Personally I would start with a finer grit only to get the feel for how aggressive it might be especially when using an industrial sander. I would start with 80+ grit. You can always move down.

It's not possible to know how many belts you will go through. I would expect possibly two for the lower grits and one for the finer.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144470#Comment_144470

Thanks @Nailbag - good idea on starting with a finer grit. Thanks for that

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145088#Comment_145088

Hello @bodega

I agree with @Nailbag's recommendation on the number of belts to get. Any belt not used and is still its packet can be returned for an exchange. Please remember to keep all your dockets!

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145567#Comment_145567

Hi @EricL

I purchased the Ryobi belt sander that’s $149 at Bunnings and using 80 grit sanding paper that comes with it. Unfortunately, it’s not really doing much to the wood.

Im wondering if it’s the belt sander or the grit I’m using? I’ve uploaded an image and this is after a solid 15 minutes just trying to get through this section. The belt is on correctly, nice and centred. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong? Should I try 40 grit?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145947#Comment_145947

Hi @bodega,

Being a 240V belt sander, your Ryobi 800W 76mm Belt Sander should be powerful enough; you may just need to apply a bit more pressure. You don't want to push down on the belt sander so much that it audibly struggles, but some downward pressure will go a long way.

Switching up to some 40-grit sandpaper is also going to be worthwhile. It looks like you're taking off quite a few years' worth of oil and stain, so the rougher grit will certainly help with this. These IRWIN 75 x 457mm 40 Grit Sanding Belts will be compatible with your sander.

Your belt sander will work, but it is going to take some time. If you wanted to speed things up further, an Orbital Floor Sander would be the way to go.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146246#Comment_146246

Thanks @JacobZ and team.

Went with the 40 Grit sanding belts, although it worked well I'm going to cut my losses and go with hiring a Orbital Floor Sander.

@JacobZ - one question, why should I hire the orbital sander instead of the drum sander that can be hired? I've come to the realisation there is quite a lot of oil and stain on the wood, and want to ensure what I hire is going to be able to do the job

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146496#Comment_146496

Hello @bodega

After much observation the team has realized that the drum sander is too sensitive and gets damaged easily when it runs over a nail head. It strips the sandpaper off causing jams and the drum itself gets damaged as well. Whereas the orbital sander is more tolerant to nail heads sticking out and is not easily damaged. It may strip the sandpaper but does not jam the mechanism of the sander.

Here is a handy guide that will help - Tips for Using a Floor Sander

If you need further assistance, please let us know

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146707#Comment_146707

Hi @EricL @JacobZ @Nailbag @Dave-1

Calling in the dream team here.

The deck has been sanded back and looks great. Thanks for all your suggestions, I've attached images for reference (I still need to do the edges).

Next step: Oiling the deck. I'm a bit confused if I need to use Tannin & Oil Remover, or if I can just start oiling the deck first?

My goal is the have the most natural, transparent oil I can get and reduce darkening it as much as possible. Please let me know thoughts - I was using this guide here as a reference

I also noticed since sanding it back (Started with 40 Grit and then smoothed with 120 grit), that literally EVERYTHING marks the wood. Even the slightest speck of rain ends up marking the wood - is this normal? To counter this until I coat it, I've covered the deck with Tarp.

What will remove any of these marks before I start to Oil the deck?

In Summary:

- Do I need to use Tannin & Oil remover?

- Which products provide the clearest/most transparent decking oil?

- Is there any way to remove stains/rain marks on the deck before oiling which happened between the sanding and oiling process.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146874#Comment_146874

Good Morning @bodega

Thats some nice work 🙂

Yeah rain will mark it until you seal it, its really pretty much raw timber until you stain it so I would maybe cover it until you do with a tarp or painters plastic as a precaution.

When I sanded my deck with a belt sander because I had high screws, I didnt clean the area before sealing. I swept it smooth and dust free tho.

So when I oiled the deck the next day it looked great, and it rained and still looked great. within a week tho I had a bunch of tiny little plack dots appear all over the deck and more spots in certain areas. I was confused as was the crew about how and what happened. Eventually I think it was @he local Bunnings guy from Kembla grange suggested that the oil may have reacted with the metal fragments from when I sanded the deck and then the rain caused a type of bloom/reaction with them and the oil. (he was right 🙂 )

I decided to leave it as no way I was going to redo the lot lol there was also a suggestion that it would fade with time from someone. This turned out to be true thankfully 🙂

So I would wait to have it confirmed but washing the deck and scrubbing with a deck cleaner would be a wise move and letting it dry totally before you seal it would be the way to go. I will let @EricL and @JacobZ suggest the best type of deck cleaner tho. (yeah prob @Nailbag knows as well 😀

Here is a link to the hardwood deck restoration Hardwood deck restoration where you can see the black dot bloom I am refering to.

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146874#Comment_146874

Hello @bodega

Thank you very much for the update, the deck sanding turned up superb. I suggest using Cabot's 1L Deck Clean - 1L to give it one last wash before you begin oiling the surface. It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Dave-1. I propose looking at either the Intergrain 10L Natural UltraDeck Timber Decking Oil or the Cabot's 10L Aquadeck Natural Exterior Decking Oil.

Please note that timber surfaces will tend to change when a wet medium is introduced to its surface. It's just like when raw timber gets exposed to rainwater it goes a bit dark. I suggest testing the oil in a section of the deck where it is not immediately seen. Give it a day or two to settle on the raw surface and see if you like the finish. If you are happy with the results, then you can commit the entire deck to the oil you've chosen.

In order to gather more information, I suggest visiting your local store and having a look at the timber oil sample board. There you will see how the oil reacts with different types of timber and see what they actually look like. Remember to speak to the paint specialist to gather more insight about your goal of getting a natural transparent look.

In regards to the stain marks, they will all fade away once you've given the surface a final wash. My best advice is to look at the weather for the week to make sure that you have several days of sunshine in a row so that your freshly oiled surface does not get rained on.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your deck fully oiled and ready for use.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146874#Comment_146874

This is looking sensational @bodega

I've just finished reconditioning/oiling 7 decks in as many weeks and I wish they were as prepared as yours.

My recommendations for next steps are:

1. Use a deck wash to rinse any contaminants off. I would do this late afternoon, then broom the excess water off when done. This will mean that as early as possible the next morn ing it will be dry to oil. Plus I use a long handled tin opener to flick out stones etc stuck in between boards.

2. I've used all the major oil brands, and by far Feast Watson "matt" finish is my go to. Not only does it dry faster than the others, it never leaves a tacky residue that can last several weeks. They do have a standard satin finish, but I've not used this so, I can't say on how it dries. Oh and its mid-price point to which is another plus.

3. If the deck gets mostly sun, I would do 3 coats otherwise two. First coat will always take 2-3 times longer than subsequent ones. Start by cutting in all the edges, sides and any steps with a fine haired fence brush. Then I like to use this type of brush for the oil.

4. Diarise for November 2026 to re-oil two coat if lots of sun or you might get away with one coat if mostly under shade. And I always desk wash first after my pressure washer which I use to remove debris build up at joist points.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/147013#Comment_147013

Hi @Nailbag - thanks for that. Just a quick one - your link in "Then I like to use this type of brush for the oil." is going to the Feast Watson Oil, are you able to re-send the link for the brush. Paranoid I'm going to get the wrong equipment.