Child Item

How to fix cracked bricks?

Hi community, my question isn't particularly related to garage but it happens that I'm replacing garage door.

I will get my garage door replaced and I just noticed that there are some cracks on the brick where the door is attached to. I hope the installer will make the right judgement on what to do but I would like to get your opinion for my own education.

As shown in the photo, there are some cracks on the bricks as marked in red. I know the bracket will be replaced but I don't know if any of existing hole will be used. Regardless the bolt will be attached on new hole or existing hole, do I need to do something about the cracks? If so, what should I do?

Would it do any good/difference if I patch/fill the hole with Ramset UltraFix? Or is there any other products that is more suitable for this? Thank you.

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Accepted answers

All comments

JacobZ

Hi @otnimus1,

The cracking through the mortar, combined with the broken bricks you can see behind the garage door's attachment bracket, implies there is some fairly significant movement happening here.

Ultimately, the brick isn't just supporting the garage door; it is holding up the roof, and this level of damage to a brick wall is a bit concerning.

I wouldn't be looking at a product to sure things up, I'd be contacting a bricklayer or builder with bricklaying experience, to have them replace the broken bricks and check that the mortar is still sound.

Allow me to tag our knowledgeable members @Dave-1, @R4addZ and @Nailbag to see what they think.

Jacob

otnimus1

Thanks for tagging other members @JacobZ I would be keen to hear their opinions. My issue are the timing between the bricklayer to do their job and the garage door being installed, since the old door is currently still intact.

AlanM52

Hi @otnimus1,

I have laid thousands of bricks, mainly 6 hole wire cut.

Looking at that and noticing the top brick is cracked things 'may' still be OK?

The mortar joints are below par.

However... if you are getting a new roller door your concerns are warranted if another set of holes need to be drilled.

I have come across similar situations when helping others and I can't find the photos.

Off the web and a good example of what I have come across.

Please post photos further up so we can see the rest of the brickwork and why the top brick in your photo is cracked.

Cheers

Nailbag

Hi @otnimus1

I wouldn’t have been too concerned if there weren’t cracked bricks. This tells me there is potential structural concerns. I would put the new door on hold until you have a domestic engineer check this as it could be a very early sign of something more serious.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Good Evening @otnimus1

That top brick that is at an angle is the one that concerns me, then factoring in the rest of the cracks tells me I wouldnt be having anything changed until I builder has looked at it. The mortar appears to be seperated on a whole bunch of bricks and the photo shows only a narrow section. I would have a closer look at the outlying bricks around the photo as well as the opposite side.

The cracked bricks would probarrly be ok as is, that top lifted brick is the one that opens up the questions.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @otnimus1

Just further thoughts on the cause especially after looking at the sample photo by @AlanM52. It is possible that a combination of a high-powered impact wrench, placement of the holes and quality of brick has caused the cracks. This would be confirmed if the external bricks in the same area are perfectly in tact. Be interested in @AlanM52 opinion on that.

If so, thats good new and still possible not all. Good news is that there is no structural issue thats caused the problem. But depending on how the replacement door is fastened, the area would need to be repaired with the door off. I would be sharing that info with the new garage installer based on Alan's response.

Nailbag

AlanM52

Hi @otnimus1,

@Nailbag has summarized everything and add to that the type of brick and if wire cut the hole count which typically ranges from 3 to 10 hole.

Even for experienced installers the whole thing is a bit hit-and-miss.

There should at least be a requirement that brickwork bracket holes must be centered on full bricks (brackets would be longer).

This is why I am asking for a photo further up so we can see what's happened up top.

Correction: Senior's moment I did 3 hole bricks.

otnimus1

Hi all, I am so grateful for all responses here. They are really informative and help me to understand the situation.

I attach more photos showing the top end of what shown on my previous photo and the outside brick. It looks to me the outside is fine. Please let me know if you have further thoughts/feedback after seeing these additional photos.

And btw, I have shown the photo to my garage installer and he said he would be able to work out something. But I will definitely discuss with him all the comments here.

Thanks again.

R4addZ

Hi @otnimus1

Due to the fixings being so close to the edge of the brickwork, I would also ask the installer in advance, if it is possible to use chemical anchors in order to reduce the sideways force of the current style of anchor.

AlanM52

Hi @otnimus1,

Thanks for the photos and we can see there are no structural issues but... I am still dumfounded by the amount of brickwork damage likely caused by very aggressive masonry drilling. Good idea by @R4addZ to possibly use chem anchors.

Hopefully it will all work out OK.

Cheers

otnimus1

Hi @R4addZ can you please elaborate what those chemical anchors are? Just so I know when I discuss it with them. Thank you.

R4addZ

Hi @otnimus1

Most physical anchors are inserted into the brickwork and work by expanding outwards as the bolt or screw is driven into it. Some work slightly differently in that the bolt is pulled outwards expanding a sheath. Both of these put an outwards pressure on the surrounding brick.

Chemical anchors are effectively a cartridge containing a structurally rated glue and the anchor is driven into the cartridge breaking it and releasing the glue to fix the bolt in place (some use an adhesive injected into which the bolt is positioned) This means the outward forces are not present on the surrounding brickwork, just the force of the load of the garage door which is an outward from the wall and downwards force. This shouldn't crack the bricks.

You may find more info here....

https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?page=1&q=chemical+anchors&sort=BoostOrder

Hope this helps

otnimus1

Yeah me too. Unfortunately I can't tell since when the cracks were there. I didn't notice or regularly checked, until we need to replace the garage door.

otnimus1

Thanks @R4addZ So I was in the right direction by thinking of applying Ramset UltraFix.

R4addZ

@otnimus1 Not if you were thinking of using it to fix the brickwork. The current brickwork is compromised and as such should be fixed properly considering the load it will have to take. That said, be advised by your installer as at the end of the day, if he says it will be ok then he is accepting liability if it fails.

Nailbag

Hi @otnimus1

Chemset anchors may secure the anchors, but will have no bearing on repairing the broken/cracked bricks they are fixing into. They rely on perfectly channeled round holes (4-cut SDS bit) and cleaned of all debris or the manufacturer will not guarantee their effectiveness.

Personally I would not take the risk even if the installer took on responsibility which, I don't believe they would. If there is a failure it could result in a very serious scenario of the door falling, permeant damage and then what has it fallen on?

Nailbag

otnimus1

Thanks again for all useful comments. This equips me for a discussion with my installer.

Child Item