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How to mount air con unit on brick wall?

I have a window embedded in a single brick wall (no cavity) that looks exactly like the situation in this thread: How to add framing around window on bric... | Bunnings Workshop community https://share.google/O07BFnjehMhD6U6Bv

I want to plaster the wall, and mount a split system air conditioner above the window. How do I mount the air con unit in this situation? Is a timber frame like the one in the the thread sufficient?

I am unsure how sturdy the brick wall is because it's a dodgy DIY build from the '70s, so I am hesitant to rely on supports that drill directly into the brick.

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Comments

EricL

Hello @Charley3

Would it be possible for you to post a photo of the window in question? This will give our members a better idea of how it is situated. Generally speaking, if the wall is not that structurally strong a timber frame is a good solution in regards to supporting the aircon unit. The timber frame would need to be anchored to the floor and the ceiling frame so that it does not need to depend on the brick wall for structural support. But I strongly recommend engaging the services of a builder to make sure that the wall is properly built and anchored safely.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @AlanM52 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/60808#Comment_60808

Good Morning @Charley3

Yeah, think I will wait for a photo 🙂 Framing around a window is easy enough, but depending on what you are doing it may be neccasdary to remove the old window. Wont know for sure until we see a photo.

Some questions come to mind -

- Is there a lintel (metal bar just above the window to carry the load of bricks)

- The dodgy 1970's brick work, will it carry the load of an air con on it. You can spread the loading across a larger area with some boards or brackets if needed

- Do you still want to use the window?

Garage converted into library room If you look at step 2 you can see that I cut out the window and made it into a doorway (well my carpenter mate did 🙂 ) Framing up the door was easy (single brick wall) I will note that my mate sent me to get sonme hinges while he cut the bricks 🙂 hahahaha He knew id be stressing and no way was I going to have a go. He offered but I erred on the side of caution.

Dave

AlanM52

Hi @Charley3,

As requested by @EricL please post some photos.

Cheers

Nailbag

Hi @Charley3

There are several variable here, including a requirement for both an electrician for the power supply back to the meter-box but an AC plumber to install and initiate the system. So, I would find your plumber and discuss with them the requirements in preparing the wall so you can then do the works in readiness.

Nailbag

Charley3

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/92855#Comment_92855

Thanks for your advice @Dave-1 , @AlanM52, @Nailbag , @EricL .

Here are photos of the wall. There is rust above the window, perhaps indicative of a metal lintel? I would still like to keep the window if possible.

I agree that qualified electrician and air con installer are needed, but I'm keen to know if I can do any of the prep work before calling in the professionals.

AlanM52

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112677#Comment_112677

Hi @Charley3,

Putting aside the structural and install requirements and... if you are prepared to go with a room aircon (10A plug lead) you should be able to make that a DIY job and save quite a lot of $$$. Come back if you are interested for more info...

Cheers

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112677#Comment_112677

Hi @Charley3

There should reason that the window can't remain in place. The issue is the rebated wall that continues above to the ceiling. This is assuming the head unit of the split system is wider than your window which looks to be around 450-500mm wide. This means you will need to fill the void above the window for it to be secured to as well as it will be fixed to the hardball either wise. Plus it's needed to conceal the pipes through the external wall.

A basic timber frame fitted with plasterboard flush to the side wall and returned back under. I would start this at the lintel line to kill two birds with one stone. You can buy small pieces of repair board that should do nicely fixed to 70mm x 45mm pine. Pre-drill the frame with pilot holes to accommodate fastening screws driven into nylon masonry plugs. You will need to gap-seal the edges of the plasterboard, prime and paint.

The head unit will be mounted by the plumber and the pipes will run external down one side of the window so won't be see internally. The sparky will need to install an external GPO to run the compressor sitting on the ground under the window. The plumber will have a sparky he works with for AC installs you can use.

Nailbag

Void to be filled

How the head unit will sit

whats required that you can do

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112677#Comment_112677

Hi @Charley3,

It looks like @Nailbag has provided some excellent advice here. That small niche at the top of the window does need to be resolved, and as long as you install suitable structural timber across that space, which you will later fix your plasterboard to, that should be more than adequate for mounting the wall unit. Just make sure you add plenty of timber in that area so the unit can be fixed directly into it with confidence.

In terms of mounting to the masonry, if there is concern about drilling into the wall to support a relatively lightweight air-conditioning unit, I would be more worried about the overall structural integrity of the house rather than the installation itself. Drilling small holes for wall plugs and mounting brackets is minimally invasive, and if that were enough to compromise the wall, there would be much bigger issues at play. Any typical masonry wall, including many from less-than-perfect 1970s builds, should be able to be drilled into without issue. There really should be no problem mounting the unit directly to the masonry.

Mitchell

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123873#Comment_123873

Good Afternoon @Charley3

I would wait until you have talked to the sparky and plumber first, @Nailbag's steps are probarlly the way you would go but the sparky or plumber may want to add/change them sligthtly. I know id be wanting to get stuck into prepping the areabut I think it would be disheartening doing work only to see it removed because something has to run where you have installed some timber ect.

Dave

R4addZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131301#Comment_131301

Hi @Charley3

Totally agree with Dave-1 on this but will also add that it would also be wise to find out where the mounting screws will go because it may be a good idea to put noggins in those locations to have something sturdy to fix the unit to.

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