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How to install artificial turf edging?

satwik

Hi all,

this is my first time posting here and first time DIY’ng my backyard.

plan is to layout artificial turf+ deck+ walking path to deck.

I have a clarity for artifical turf, where i need weed mat+ crushed rock+ dust as a base and top will be turf.

but for edging between turf and walking path, how do i proceed?

do i first layout weed mat for whole area or cut out different mats for different paths.

does eding needs a trench to sit properly or is there an option to just nail down?

can i use same edging between deck, walking path(pebbles with steps) and turf

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Comments

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @satwik. It's amazing to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about landscaping.

Great project to start with, you are tackling a few different elements at once but the thinking you have done so far is spot on.

How you lay the weed mat really comes down to finished heights rather than doing everything as one continuous layer. In most cases it is easier and cleaner to treat each zone separately. That means weed mat under the artificial turf area, a separate base and matting under the walking path, and your deck structure sitting independently. This gives you much more control over levels and avoids fighting height differences later.

For a flush transition, the key is setting your finished heights first. Artificial turf is relatively thin once laid over crusher dust, while a pebble path or stepping stones will be thicker. To make everything sit nicely level, the path area usually needs to be excavated slightly deeper than the turf area. That way, once the base and surface materials are in, both finishes end up at the same height. You can absolutely run the same type of weed mat throughout, but it will still need to be cut and stepped down where levels change.

Between the turf and the walking path, edging is optional rather than essential. Artificial turf can simply be cut neatly and pegged down into the base material. As long as the base is well compacted, it will stay put. Edging is mainly used to define the transition visually or to stop loose materials like pebbles from migrating into the turf. If you want a clean separation and less maintenance, edging is a good idea, but it is not structurally required for the turf itself.

If you do use edging, most types perform best when they sit in a shallow trench so they are supported by the surrounding material. Nailing or pegging straight onto the surface can work in the short term, but it is more likely to move over time. A shallow trench with the edging pegged and then backfilled will give a much neater and longer-lasting result.

You can use the same style of edging between the turf, pebble path, and deck. Just keep in mind that between turf and deck, edging is often unnecessary because the turf can be tucked neatly under the deck edge and pinned in place. Overall, focus on getting your levels right first, then decide where edging adds value visually or functionally, rather than feeling like it must be used everywhere.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

satwik

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61018#Comment_61018

Thanks for the response.

if there is no edge between turf and walking path, how will the crushed rock and dust compacting work, wont the rocks fall off while pressing down without edge in between.

Bascially, i have excavated the area from alfresco level to 100mm deep.

60mm crushed rock

20mm crushed dust

35mm luxury turf.

so you are advising me to dig the path a little more so once pebbles come it will be in level.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/92983#Comment_92983

If the walking path is not at the same elevation as the top of the turf, then yes, you would need edging to retain the crushed rock beneath the turf. Ideally, though, you'd want the finished height of the walkway and the turf at the same level. If you were paving the path, it would need to be dug down further. But if you are using pebbles for the path, you only need to dig enough to retain them. It all really depends on whether your crushed rock is going on top of the current soil or not.

Mitchell

satwik

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112673#Comment_112673

Thak you.

yes i plan to keep crushed rock as a base for whole backyard (turf+deck+path).

one more important thing which i am concerned about is the drianage.

there is a drinage pipe as shown in the picture. Do i cut it before the crushed rock is laid out or after.

what are the techniques i need to adopt so that crushed rock or soil does not get inside the drinage and block it if i cut it before.

i understand it needs be in level with the soil layer. I also plan to add small slope towards the house concrete so water comes down and goes into drian as shown in picture.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/123867#Comment_123867

That pipe is something you need to be careful with @satwik. It should not be left open at any stage, because once crushed rock or soil gets into it, it can very easily block the line and create much bigger drainage problems down the track. From a compliance point of view, that pipe really needs to be properly capped or finished with an inspection opening, depending on what the pipe is actually for, and that work is considered plumbing and drainage work. In most cases, it requires a licensed plumber or drainer to do it correctly.

Ideally, the pipe should be capped or fitted with an appropriate inspection outlet before you lay your crushed rock, so it is sealed and protected while the rest of the landscaping work is carried out. Simply taping it up or loosely covering it isn’t reliable long term, as fine material will still find its way in. Once it’s properly capped or terminated, you can then build your crushed rock and soil layers around it and bring the finished level up flush with the surrounding surface.

Mitchell

satwik

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131297#Comment_131297

Thanks mitchell. This pipe is definetely for draining backyard water.

i will leave it alone for now until i finish compacting the crushed rock.

and before laying turf i will cut so the artificial turf base is in same level as the pipe entry.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135831#Comment_135831

Hi @satwik,

The pipe might be there to capture backyard water, but currently, backyard drainage is not installed. The pipe doesn't collect water by itself. You would either need to install an agi-line, a stormwater pit, or a drainage channel, and connect it to the pipe. These are what collect the water and send it into the pipe.

Mitchell

satwik

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138930#Comment_138930

I see. Is agi pipe needed for artificial turf as well?

been asking around to landscapers and got mixed opinions. Like if the house is not in hilly area, mostly should be alright.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141011#Comment_141011

Drainage solutions like AgPipe aren’t really about the type of surface you’re putting down @satwik. They’re about managing water where it naturally collects. Whether it’s gravel, natural grass, or artificial turf, if there’s a low spot or an area graded toward a slab where water can’t escape, installing drainage is important. Without it, water will just sit on the surface, leaving your turf or gravel waterlogged. So if you expect water to pool in any part of your yard, an AgPipe system in that spot is the way to go to collect and redirect it to stormwater.

Mitchell

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