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How to restore heritage home interior wall render?

Ben2065

Hi everyone,

I am slowly restoring my heritage cottage (built around 1900). Current project is to install stud wall immediately to the right (hot water side) of the window architrave (dummy base plate of stud wall sitting in place). However the wall render has failed in much of the room from being used a bathroom with no waterproofing as you can clearly see in the pics. It has been exposed in the current state for years so has all totally dried out. Sadly the brick wall is not very presentable in its current shape for the consideration or removing the render. Also the plate rack, cornice and skirting all allow for the thickness of the render (aprox 1cm thick with a sandy thick base which crumbles easily and a top hard white skim plaster coat). Previously this had sheeting installed over it when the room was used as a bathroom (villaboard I suspect).

How to restore the wall?

Install villaboard on battens to space it off the bricks?

Use acrylic or concrete render?

Simply board up with gyprock glued to the bricks?

Paint the bricks with limewash or paint and apply timber quad to all timber trim edges to seal the gaps?

The area where the hot water heater is will be a small enclosed toilet room

To the left will be a laundry area (only a few sinks to be installed) no shower etc.

Looking for something clean and functional but doesn't need to be heritage perfect lime render.

Many thanks for your assistance. 2a276646-f650-458b-b01e-1a024776c143.jfif c724eb03-e6b1-431d-8640-0d7bd2d9f72e.jfif

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JacobZ

Hi @Ben2065,

Considering the room is not going to be operating as a bathroom, which would require you to consider the waterproofing, and the main idea is to improve the aesthetic of the wall rather than provide anything functional, then a base coat of render such as this Dunlop Multipurpose Acrylic Render, topped with a coat of Hardwall Plaster mixed with lime putty, would be the way I would go.

This would give you a nice smooth surface that can be painted over without major implications for the skirting, architraves or cornice and would more or less replicate what was already there, using more modern, flexible materials.

Have a look at How To Hard Plaster a Brick Wall and How To Render for some guidance on the process.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Ben2065

Thank you @JacobZ for your advice. After looking into it further I am concerned the concrete path outside the wall is trapping moisture against the bricks and could result in moisture accumulating in the bricks and result in failure of the render over time. I think I may need to resort to lime mortar render to allow the bricks to breathe even though lime mortar render probably takes a very long time to dry. I assume bunnings don't sell lime mortar for rendering?

EricL

Hello @Ben2065

I'm sorry the store does not carry a pre-mixed bag of lime mortar ready to go, but I suggest having a look at this discussion regarding mixing your own batch - What foundation and mortar is best for a rock wall by @Simon_B.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Ben2065

Hi @JacobZ

Just concerned as the render below the timber plate rack is rather drummy and looks questionable how long it will last. Wondering if I am better to remove the plaster up to the plate rack and install villaboard over the bricks instead or render? Villaboard either glued directly to the bricks or mounted on timber battens? This would at least provide a uniform smooth surface? Please let me know your thoughts?

Cheers,

Ben

EricL

Hello @Ben2065

It would definitely save you time in determining which parts of the render are still good and those sections that are bad. Installing the villaboard would give you a uniform finish and would make finishing the wall off much simpler. I would suggest installing timber battens for the villaboard to anchor onto. The trade-off of course is that the villaboard will eat up a bit of space. But I think the thickness of the panel and the battens will be negligible and will not greatly impact the size of the room.

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Ben2065

Hi @EricL @JacobZ @Nailbag @Dave-1 @AlanM52

I really think cladding the masonry wall with villaboard is the best option. Is there a minimum thickness of batten to use? is a 1-2cm thick batten acceptable as I will not be tiling the wall - villaboard sheet will only be painted. I assume gluing the board to the bricks directly is not encouraged?

EricL

Hello @Ben2065

I was looking at the 42 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium as a possible candidate for the battens. I have used these in some of my projects, and they have held up well. Let's wait and see what the others suggest.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @Ben2065

You could either got the timber battens @EricL has recommended or a metal option with these zinc ones.

Nailbag

JacobZ

Hi @Ben2065,

Using battens with Villaboard is definitely a good option, and had there not been implications for the skirting and architraves, it would have been what I suggested first off, as it is generally the easiest way to get a nice flat surface over uneven surfaces.

I would suggest using steel battens. The Australian Handyman Supplies 22mm x 3m Zincalume Steel Ceiling Batten that @Nailbag mentioned would be a good option.

Alternatively, you could use the Siniat 28 x 3000mm 0.42bmt Furring Channel with Siniat CGRIP Clips, which can help if the wall is uneven or out of plumb as you can adjust the battens slightly within the fixing clips.

If you are using Villaboard, I would also encourage you to read and understand the Villaboard Lining Installation Guide, paying specific attention to the differing requirements based on whether the wall will be tiled or not.

Let me know if there is anything else we can assist with.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @Ben2065

I was liking the idea of the timber or gal strips that @EricL and @Nailbag suggested. Tho the ones that @JacobZ has mentioned sound like they would be a lot easier to handle uneven surfaces. I think having a stand off wall wil look a lot nicer and be far easier then trying to render the whole lot and your moisture concerns.

Dave

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