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How to brick up external door?

WhichAisle

Hello

Looking for any advice and guidance on bricking up an external doorway (house is double brick).

Especially the best materials for the internal layer, Power block/Besser block etc and mortar.

The main challenge is the door frame and jamb, it's metal and can't be removed.

Therefore the internal mortar will be between Besser block and existing painted frame.

I've got 1 x block to size up (600 X 200 x 075). It's one of these...

https://www.bunnings.com.au/hebel-powerblock-600-x-200-x-075mm-130-plt-csr-powerblock_p0405017

It feels a little too shallow, so might go deeper 100mm depth. However, if using this dimension I can't build a 'running' pattern, so i'm assuming these blocks will need to be cut down. The internal wall will eventually have shelves drilled in, so needs to be pretty sturdy.

Photos and current plan are below.

Many thanks for your expertise!

_____________________________

Prep...

Remove door, hinges and wooden skirting.

Chip off floor tiles within the doorway, so base row of bricks can be laid level with existing.

External side...

Tooth out half bricks & old mortar either side of opening (Apart from top row due to steel lintel, which will remain).

Build up external bricks (have sourced matching style) with fresh mortar.

Internal side...

Build up with besser block type material, using the same mortar???

Finish with a render/plaster.

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Comments

EricL

Hello @WhichAisle

Your plan sounds very well thought out. But I would like to suggest building a timber stud frame for the interior which you can anchor onto the steel frame. You can then put insulation in and cover the surface with James Hardie 2.88m² Villaboard Lining - 2400 x 1200 x 6mm. You can then render the surface and match the finish of the interior surface of your home. This will be much easier to anchor shelves onto as you don't need special fixings, you also have the option of adding extra noggings for shelf mounting.

However, it does not mean that you can't use Hebel PowerBlock 600 x 400 x 100mm Jumbo Building Block (which I would recommend). Its larger surface will provide more area for mortar to adhere to and provides better insulation.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @AlanM52 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @WhichAisle

Since the Lentil is remaining in place, can you not use an angle grind to cut manageable sections of the steel door frame that could be then pry-bar'd out on your own. Thats basically how I had to remove one once.

Nailbag

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61840#Comment_61840

Good Afternoon @WhichAisle

I was thinking along the same lines as @Nailbag as to removing the old frame. Depending tho 🙂 As there is always a depending. Does the metal frame support the bricks above (lintel built into frame) or is there a seperate lintel to support the bricks above?

I was also thinking of a false wall being easier to install. But rendering and matching what you have inside I dont have enough experience to suggest either or, False framing a wall up would be a LOT easier and as @EricL says you can insulate it.

I do like your thought process and how you have stepped through all teh options. Nice thinking 🙂

Dave

AlanM52

Hi @WhichAisle,

The frame is supporting the lintel and I always say to myself, why do it that way?

To remove the frame you should be able to access the top five bricks from above on the roof.

Thing is... can you match those bricks?

Please let us know if you can...

If not I would do the Alcove thing on the outside.

Cheers

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