Child Item

Can you use clear resin instead of wood putty to fill screw holes?

I'm building a laptop table out of some scrap timber, and I've gotten up to attaching the top slats to the frame (I'm using a slatted top so there's airflow underneath the laptop). I specifically picked out black screws to do this with - it seems a waste to put putty over them when I picked them out to contrast nicely with how I'm painting the slats.

I wasn't sure what else I could use that would leave the screws visible, but fill in the countersink holes so the surface is level. I'm looking at using one of the 250ml resin kits - probably the Boyle one, since the surface sealer is also available - to spot fill the holes after assembly. (I'm thinking I will varnish first, then do the assembly, then apply the sealer to the screw holes, and then do the resin pour. Hopefully the resin will even out the break in the varnish.)

Has anyone else tried this? What order did you do everything in? How did it turn out?

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Craft and Hobbies

Furniture

Repairing

Building and Construction

Accepted answers

All comments

dartigen

I should also add - I'm using a satin varnish, but I saw that the resin has a gloss finish. Should I do another coat of varnish over the resin to get the finish to match?

EricL

Hello @dartigen

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your laptop table.

I have a general idea of what you are trying to accomplish. Would it be possible for you to post a photo of the table so that our members can see its overall condition? We can then make recommendations in regards to the finish.

Generally speaking, from an installation point of view, I suggest finishing the table first in regards to sanding and building. I then suggest pouring the resin over the screw holes so that it binds with the unsealed timber surface. Once the resin cures you can then paint the surface with varnish. Placing the resin over the varnish might cause poor adhesion and will strip varnish off.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Remarka6le for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

dartigen

This is a photo of what I have so far; the piece off to one side is one of the sets of legs (the other is still drying, along with one of the slats). The slats are going to be screwed to the frame at the short ends, so 2 screw holes on each slat. I'm pretty sure the screws I have are the Pinnacle 40mm black timber screws, with the rounded head - I know those wouldn't usually be countersunk, but that's the only way I can see to get a flat surface after filling. The colour is acrylic paint thinned down with water so it's more of a glaze than a flat finish. (The slats aren't varnished yet, I painted them with a metallic finish paint so that's why they're a bit shiny.)

Second image is side-on of the frame - the second hole is for the bolt that allows the legs to fold in and out. I used the same screws to assemble the frame, but it's not as important for those to be flat since they're just on the sides, so the little feet on my laptop can't catch on those.

EricL

Hello @dartigen

Thank you for sharing those extra photos of your laptop table. Have you considered using Pinnacle 5 x 50mm Black Countersunk Timber Screws and overdriving it so that it goes in deep and it still allows you to fill the top with resin. However, if you are keen on the bugle head screws that will work as well.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @dartigen

I would fill the holes with the resin before varnish for the same reasons @EricL has specified.

However, I have used those style of black screws (both countersunk and rounded) and have run into a problem with them and a power torqued drill. The head burrs easily I found, even by hand. My solution was to use standard silver screws and then use a permanant marker/sharpie to colour the heads in. I consider those black coloured screws like the cheap ones from a cheap store in quality. I still have the box of them somewhere lol

Instead of resin, you could use a perspex top and cut equivilent slots in the perspex to match the timber slats. Lots of fiddly work but would look pretty nice. The resin I think would look nice as well.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @dartigen

Because the timber you are using is pine, the screw heads are crushing the surface as you tighten them. So to keep the black heads as that feature your after, use black washers which will cover existing depressions and prevent new ones. If you can't find the washer size you need in black just spray paint them. I do this sort of thing all the time as finding suitable coloured fasteners are rare.

Nailbag

dartigen

Thanks for all the replies! I think I have some of the countersunk ones as well from something else, I'll give those a try. The other screws were countersunk before drilling, that's why they might look a bit odd - it's kind of hard to see in the photos after the painting. I'm thinking of touching them up by hand with some black paint anyway since I got the blue all over them (which is why I painted the top pieces before adding the screws; I plan to touch up the countersink holes before actually joining everything).

Still, good to hear that the overall plan is solid! I was initially worried about being able to find a small amount of resin - a lot of the kits I looked at elsewhere started at 1L, which is waaaaaay too much for a few tiny screw holes. And I feel like it's a good way to balance out needing a flat surface while also using feature screws or fasteners.

EricL

Hello @dartigen

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your laptop table fully assembled and working.

Eric

Child Item