How to install VJ panelling on existing plasterboard?

Thank you for sharing your question about Easycraft VJ panelling. I suggest keeping the plasterboard on and removing the skirting board instead. According to the Easycraft - Product Fact Sheet & Installation Guideline on page 7 a gap of 10mm must be provided at the bottom and a 5mm gap at the top. Generally speaking, you can put the skirting board on top of the VJ panels once they are installed.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: Easycraft DIY Installing EasyVJ to an existing wall

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and mask when working on your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks Eric.

if I were to leave the plasterboard in place, how would I keep the skirting board flush with the architraves? The VJ will push it out a further 9mm so not sure how to deal with this.

I understand your desire to keep the skirting board lined up, but Easycraft does not offer any suggestions in regards to the type of skirting board that you currently have. I propose trimming the edge of the skirting board at a 45-degree angle so that it does not visually stand out when it reaches the end of the architrave. Another option would be to leave it as is and have the gap between the VJ panel and your existing skirting board.

One other possible option that comes to mind is to add extra timber moulding to your architrave so that skirting board will meet up with it at the end of the run. Would it be possible for you to post a photo of the wall along with the architrave? This will give our members a better idea of its layout, we can then offer suggestions on how to line up your skirting board with your architrave.

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @tarragindi_haus

You have hit the eternal issue. When you renovate/modify something, where do you stop and how to stop :)

I also headed towards both of @EricL's suggestions. I had that old style skirting board. I replaced the rooms I was renovating with a newer more modern style and it looks great. I butted the new skirt up against the door trim and left it at that. I did intend to redo the door frame but never got to that point. The extra trim around teh door frame would actually work very nicely and with minimal cost.

Dave

Thank you both. This is a photo of an example of where the skirting comes up against the door architraves.

I have thought about upgrading to a more modern skirting but as it’s used in the whole house it just becomes an enormous job.

Thank you for sharing that photo of your skirting board. Having had a look at the picture, I believe you can get away with the skirting board end being cut at a 45-degree angle. The tiny gap should there be one, can be filled with gap filler to visually hide it. But the choice is up to you on how much effort you want to put into your revamp.

Eric

thanks Eric

So you would recommend cutting out the plasterboard and fixing the VJ panelling direct to the studs so the skirting sits flush?

Nailbag

Hi @tarragindi_haus

Personally I think VJ looks best taken straight to the floor. So I would remove the skirting.

You can then very easily attach the panel straight to the plasterboard which is a little project I recently did for someone’s home office. First identify the studs and mark them on the floor. Apply liquid nails in a crisscross pattern and place the panel.

Use 40mm bullet head nails to fix the panels into the studs but not one the ends. You want to be able to lever the end to position the next panel into the tongue and groove. Avoid cutting the board so they fit precisely within the wall. Allow 5mm either end for ease of placement and the wall being off square. You can use a silicone filler to conceal the gaps at each end prior to painting.

Nailbag

I propose getting one panel first and testing it on your wall. Physically seeing the panel on the wall and how it interacts with your skirting board is much better than taking a guess. Just keep in mind that removing the plasterboard means that the timber stud will need to be adjusted and extra support will need to be added according to the installation manual. Take this into account when you decide to remove the plasterboard.

There is nothing wrong with removing the plasterboard wall. However, just a friendly reminder, if your house was built between the 70's, 80's and early 90's, I recommend having your walls tested for asbestos before making any cuts. If the results are positive, you'll need an asbestos removal specialist. If the test is negative, you can continue with your revamp project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric