How to covert shed to habitable room?

ShaneGty

Hi Bunnings Community,

Currently planning on making shed in back yard - liveable into a (1) rumpus / tv room and (2) bedroom and (3) space for bathroom in future at back and (4) leave small shed at back of shed for lawnmower etc).

Note:

• have checked and don't believe that need any planning / building permit.
• electrical / water / drain connections in place.

Key things that looking to do:

• install timber framing with insulation
• remove current doors / windows and get company to install sliding doors / windows
• install plasterboard
• install flooring

Questions:

• is any waterproofing required? Currently in heavy rain - water enters into shed via 20cm openings under doors - will internal floor need to be raised?
• What type of plasterboard / insulation recommended?
• what other considerations do I need to consider.

Thanks

Shane

JacobZ

Hi @ShaneGty,

While converting a shed into a detached dwelling might seem simple, it is a significant project that involves strict building codes and council regulations. In Australia, sheds are typically classified as Class 10a (non-habitable) structures. To legally live in one, it must be upgraded to meet the standards of a Class 1a dwelling. In New Zealand, similar standards apply.

If your shed is not currently classified as a habitable dwelling, there's a good chance that you will need some kind of council approval. If you have not already done so, I'd suggest you reach out to your local council for a chat to see what is required, if anything.

If you require building approval, then you would likely need to speak with a licenced builder as well as a draftsperson for their assistance with this project.

Regarding your specific questions, water entering under the doors would need to be addressed before any internal fit-out begins. Habitable spaces require appropriate moisture management, so this could involve improving drainage, lowering the ground level around the structure and installing proper door thresholds. Water ingress needs to be addressed on the outside of the structure, you can not address water issues by raising the internal floor level as the water will still get in, which can cause issues such as rotting timber and mould.

For internal linings, standard 10mm or 13mm plasterboard is commonly used for dry areas, while moisture resistant plasterboard or fibre cement sheeting is typically installed in wet areas such as bathrooms alongside a waterproofing system.

Fibreglass batts, such as Earthwool are commonly used in timber framing systems. Depending on your location, walls typically call for an R rating between 2-3 and ceilings a rating between 4-6.

Because of the change from a non-habitable shed to a living space, details such as waterproofing, insulation levels, ventilation, electrical work and structural compliance are important. For that reason, it would be worthwhile engaging a qualified builder or building professional early in the process so they can guide you through the requirements and help plan the project correctly from the start.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob