hi i am planning to add a plasterboard wall in the hallway to separate the room. I have steel truss framing in the roof so was wondering how would i attach the top stud to the roof. Also is h2 treated pine is the suggested selection for framing ? Also suggest options to have better acoustics in the room. Image with double doors is what i am trying to acheive
Hi @antrix_bansal,
With steel roof trusses, it’s unlikely that your ceiling sheets are fixed directly to the trusses themselves. In most cases, there will be ceiling battens installed beneath the trusses, and this is typically what you would fix your top plate into. To do this, you would simply locate the battens that run in line with the wall and screw the frame to them using a suitably long https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/building-hardware/fasteners-fixings/screws/metal-fix-screws?srsltid=AfmBOorxCkvuE39JwmR_dXpwaq00WzM0iyZ8zXOZ1gv5rxsgskHt3iM0 for the connection.
For the wall framing, H2 treated pine is commonly used for internal framing and is perfectly suitable for this type of application. Considering the desire for sound reduction, I would go with 90x45mm framing as it allows you to use a thicker insulation material.
To improve acoustics in the room, installing acoustic insulation batts such as https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwool-r2-7-shd-soundshield-wall-batt-90mm-x-430mm-x-1160mm-5-0m-10-pack_p0810976 within the wall cavity will help reduce sound transfer.
You can also look at using acoustic plasterboard such as https://www.bunnings.com.au/gyprock-csr-3000-x-1200-x-13mm-3-60sqm-soundchek-plasterboard-re_p0735728 or even a double layer on one or both sides to further improve sound reduction. Making sure any gaps are well sealed and opting for solid core doors instead of hollow ones will also make a noticeable difference.
When framing for double or French doors, you’ll need to create a rough opening to suit the combined width of both door leaves plus clearance for the frame. This involves installing a solid header or framed header across the top of the opening to carry any load, supported by full height king studs on either side and shorter jack studs beneath the header. The opening should be square and level to ensure the doors hang correctly, and you’ll also want to allow for the door jamb and any shimming during installation. Once framed, the door unit or jamb can be fixed into the opening, with careful attention to alignment so both doors meet evenly in the centre and operate smoothly.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Jacob
Thanks @JacobZ any other way to do the top plate without the batten in the roof. As it is loose insulation in the roof and very difficult to find.
Unfortunately, no. You have to tie the top plate into the structure somehow and that means either screwing into the framing that is already in the roof cavity or getting into the roof cavity to alter the framing to suit. If you have concerns about this, then it is likely best you speak with a carpenter for their assistance with this project.
Have you had a look in the roof cavity whether there are battens present and if so, were they steel?
It's not too hard to use a https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-magnetic-stud-finder_p0673723 to locate steel framing, and a stud finder like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-stud-finder-with-ac-detection-rysf5003_p0374422 to locate timber framing, so if you can visually confirm there is something there, it shouldn't be too hard to use a stud finder to locate it from the underside of the ceiling.
Check out How to use a stud finder for some guidance.
Let me know if you have further questions.
