Just looking for some advice or a helpful video. I'm mounting a 600mm kaboodle wall cabinet but only have one vertical stud about a third if the way in. I will use that but need some other fixing points and unsure of what's best to use. Thanks.
Hi @DIYHaveaCrack,
In this situation, you really do need something solid to fix into, as plasterboard alone isn’t suitable for supporting a wall cabinet, especially once it’s loaded.
If you’ve only got one stud, the usual approach is to tie that cabinet into something else that is properly supported. For example, if there’s another cabinet beside it that is fixed into studs, you can screw the carcasses together so they share the load.
If it’s a standalone cabinet, then you’ve got a couple of options. The proper fix is to open the wall and add some framing (noggins) between the studs so you’ve got solid timber exactly where you need it. Alternatively, a simpler surface-mounted option is to run a horizontal timber rail across the wall, fixed securely into the studs you do have, and then mount the cabinet onto that rail.
Either way, the key point is that the cabinet needs to be anchored to something structural. Plaster fixings alone aren’t reliable for this kind of load.
If you can share a photo of where the cabinet’s going, there may be a cleaner or more tailored solution depending on the layout.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks Mitchell. I've attached a photo. This one is the rangehood cabinet (but the cabinet next to it will have the same issue (ie. only a vertical stud). In the photo the outline of the cabinet is marked by the outline with little crosses and you can see I've marked where the vertical stud is located (slightly off centre). The only horizontal studs are well below or just above where I ideally want to locate the cabinet. Ideally I don't want to cut into the drywall so not sure what my options are then. The vertical stud does run the full height of the cabinet.
Hello @DIYHaveaCrack
Thank you for sharing that photo of your wall. One other possible option that comes to mind is to attach an https://www.bunnings.com.au/89-x-19mm-3-0m-dar-pine-premium_p8401465 across the timber studs. In this case the pine piece will need to be anchored to the stud frame of the window. One at the top and one below just inside the permitter height of the wall cabinet, however the pine piece will need to go across the entire run of the wall cabinets.
The rule for this solution is that the pine panel must be attached to two wall studs and not left overhanging over a single stud only. One drawback of this fixing solution is that there will be a 19mm gap at the back of your wall cabinets. Generally speaking, this will not be noticeable and if you do see a gap, it can be filled with a filler panel.
Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @homeinmelbourne for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good Afternoon @DIYHaveaCrack
Are you two cabinets going to be side by side? Generally I would think that the overhead cabinets screwed into one stud at least with three screws, four is better. and also screwed between the cabinets as well. That way its formed into a solid section.
Being the cabinet for the rangehood there shouldnt be a lot of chance to fill it with heavy items. Installing noggins behind would be best but I would screw 4 long screws into the stud to secure it so you dont need to damage the plaster.
Dave
Given the stud is just off centre could I use a combination of say 4 screws into the stud then something like a toggle bolt, or something along those lines, is each corner for additional support?
And yes @Dave-1 the cabinets will be next to each other.
Afternoon @DIYHaveaCrack
I wouldnt use any togglebolts or secure it to the plaster. The plaster is far to weak structually to support the weight. The backplane of a kaboodle cabinet is solid and connected to the sides/top/bottom so its one unit. The 4 screws should be fine. If you are concerned then the next step would be towards installing noggins between the studs to add support for your cupboards.
Well having cabinets next to each other solves the problem. Backplane secured to the studs for both, the cabinets screwed through to each other with short screws and the unit becomes locked in place. That is how I did my kitchen cabinets years ago :)
To add extra support, I suggest installing an angle bracket at the top of the cabinet where the stud is. This will add support to the top panel of the wall cabinet.
So two main options there but I have some questions.
Dave-1 - So just to clarify you think four screws into the vertical stud and then the cabinets screwed to each other would provide enough support?
EricL - This could also work. My question is re screwing into the window stud - given this would impede on the trim would I need to cut a piece out of the trim to accommodate the cross beam? That is the only way I can of being able to screw into the window stud. My other question is in regard to the 19mm space behind - keeping in mind the electrician will need to drill through the wall in the hole already made in the cabinet back, will the small space be any impediment to this?
Also for Eric - can you explain further your comment re the angle bracket. I don't know what you mean (I'm better with pictures :)).
Thanks.
Yes, you would need to cut the window trim in order for the pine panel to be properly anchored. In regard to the gap, it will not impede your electrician from any electrical installation. I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of where the angle bracket will be installed.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Good Evening @DIYHaveaCrack
To answer your question below :) Yes I do think it would be enough. This is always the hard part in making decisions. Do you remember what use to be on the wall before and how it was attached? Have a look if you have an old cabinet mounted elsewhere. As long as the screws have enough of a head to stop the laminate partical board from pulling through it should be a solid fix.
Good Evening again @DIYHaveaCrack
:) Well you had me thinking about fastening the cabinets to the wall so I went and scrolled through my project and sure enough if you look closely at the pics of the cabinets being mounted on the wall you can see the screws in the center of the cabinets. I also remember screwing short screws between the cabinets. I dont live there anymore but know it was still standing 5 years later. :)
Okay. This was quite the conundrum! My original plan was to put two 600mm cupboards on the RHS of the window (one being the rangehood cupboard) and then put another 300mm cupboard on the LHS of the window to balance that out aesthetically. On the RHS this would be fine as I had enough vertical studs to make that work structurally BUT on the LHS no studs at all! So next plan was to put the extra 300mm cupboard on the RHS but again no vertical stud in the right place for any support of that cupboard.
SO structurally I'll go with Eric's suggestion of the two cross bars and this allows me to put all three cabinets across that RHS of the window and have the vertical studs to support this.
My next question is regarding a gap. Once mounted, the 3 cupboards combined will leave a 100mm gap on the right hand wall side. So I'm looking for some advice on how to use the Kaboodle gap fillers and also should I mount the cupboards (the second 600mm one and the 300mm one) so they have a 50mm gap on either side or just do the 100mm gap at one end? Also is the gap filler the same colour as the cupboard door as opposed to white like the cabinet carcass?
Hope that all makes sense!
You could add 20mm spacers between each cabinet and remember you may have end panels on the cabinets themselves which are 20mm also. so that takes it to 80mm.
Sketch it out to see how it would look? It comes down to how it looks for you, I do believe its worthwhile going to the effort to get it right as you will be looking at those cabinets for years to come :)
So have sketched out as the more questions
I ask the more questions I create. :)
The intention would be for the rangehood cabinet to butt up against the window trim (this then aligns the other edge of the cabinet to the other side of the benchtop gap). Cabinet 2 (also 600mm) would butt up against cabinet 1 then cabinet 3 (300mm) would butt up against cabinet 2. So this leaves a 100mm space between cabinet 3 and the wall. What to do with this space? Given they are wall cabinets (and you don't see the side) do I need an end panel (I thought not but happy for advice).
In summary what best to do with the 100mm space at the end (put in an end panel and have an 80mm space), put in a 100mm filler panel, put in an end panel AND 80mm filler, split the diff and put a 50mm filler between cabinets 2 and 3 then another 50mm filler between cabinet 3 and the wall.
Option 3 - give up and call HireAHubby haha (can be done if I sell another kidney).
Thank you for sharing that sketch of your kitchen cabinet wall plan. Generally speaking, you approximately have a space of 1600mm+. I'm guessing you chose these cabinet sizes so that all the doors would be the same size. You have two options in regard to the 100mm gap. First is to install a filler panel cut to size and installed using a timber brace. Second is to get a 400mm wall cabinet to maximize storage space.
As to the exposed side of the rangehood cabinet, I suggest covering it with a wall panel cut to size in order to give it a finished look. The 50/50 balance will work but you will see the timber mounting panels at the back. I've placed some sample images below for reference.
I would go for the filler section like @EricL has drawn up. That way the stove stays inline with the exhaust plus cupboards. :) Its a maths problem with a little asthetics thrown in. :)
Slowly becoming clearer! Yes DaveL it is ALL about aesthetics and maths!
So Plan No. 646A - One thing I didn't mention/make clear is that the rangehood cupboard is actually 720mmH and 400mmD. Main reasons are I have an undermount rangehood to go in and the 300mmD cabinet just wasn't deep enough to accommodate the required margins. The 720X400X600 cabinet was also the one recommended to me at Bunnings at the Kaboodle desk. Rightly or wrongly that's what I got! (In hindsight, when I bought the rangehood, I would have said I want one that fits a 300mmD cabinet!).
The other cupboards are 720X600X300 so will sit slightly back from the rangehood cabinet exposing the carcass. SO I'm thinking I will put an end panel on either side of the rangehood cabinet (still keeps it central to the stovetop) then cabinet 2 then cabinet 3 and then a small filler panel (about 60mm) next to the wall.
And yes Eric I did choose the 300mm cabinet so the doors were the same size - I could probably get away with a slightly wider cabinet and have no need for a filler but Kaboodle don't do that size (350-360mm) in the 720mmH cabinet and don't think they would do a custom job for one cabinet.
How does that sound?
I believe you've solved the cabinet layout issue! All you need to do now is to put it together. Yes, you get to keep the kidney.
:) @DIYHaveaCrack lol
Nodding to the screen, you have indeed cracked it! Love @EricL 's resposne as it says it perfectly :)
If you go through my old project you cant even see the 20mm filler panels I inserted, The eyes glaze past it'
Cant wait to see it done. To mount the cabinets I screwed a piece of timber to the wall, so as to rest the rear of the cabinet and then have someone hold the cabinet in place (no weight lifting involved as the rail is supporting it) and screw the rear panel to the wall :) Once all are done and joined sideways then remove the rail and bingo. Plaster up teh screw holes and admire your work.
That has all been incredibly helpful. Last question (as if) the height of the cupboards is defined by standards etc but is also exactly the height of four tiles. Cupboards have to be exactly that height. So, tiles first then mount cupboards or, what seems to be most advised, cupboards first then tiles?Just thought it might be harder to do top row of tiles if cupboards in. Thoughts?
The general rule is that the bottom of the wall cabinet must be 600mm from the top of the benchtop. This rule also applies to electric cooktops, but for gas cooktops the rangehood bottom must be at least 700mm from the top of the trivets make sure to take this into consideration when you are measuring for your cabinets.
Before I installed my wall cabinets, I measured my tiles to make sure I did not have to make small cuts, I got lucky as my subway tiles were 100mm tall, so they were an exact fit. But if cutting is unavoidable, I recommend planning ahead so you know how many tiles you'll need to cut down.
Generally speaking, I would suggest installing the cabinets first, then tile the wall.
Good morning @DIYHaveaCrack
The 600mm height that @EricL has mentioned is where I would start (didnt know that about gas cooktops :o ) And I installed my cabinets first as back then the style was for lower tiles (Not bench to cupboard height, just a little less) Back to maths again :)
Thanks for that guys. Yes standard cupboard height is minimum 600mm. What I have worked is that 4 tiles height is 650mm (actually 653.4) which is the minimum height for this model rangehood (must be mounted 650mm to 700mm above the cooktop which is electric). Aesthetically I've lined up the cupboards so they'll all sit 650mm off the bench (and will hold all the s**t I don't use often :).
And I've mapped and colour sorted all my tiles to make sure I have no slivers to be cut or same colours next to each other. Onward and upward!!
