Hey!
I’m interested in making my own bookshelf as pictured. My only question is what the best wood to use would be to ensure stability? And then maybe the best wood for the posts?
Thanks!!
Hi @langas18, Great project, I'll be looking forward to following your build.
From the image, it appears the shelves themselves are likely multi-use timber panels, which are a great choice because they’re flat, stable, and readily available in different sizes. They’re easy to cut to length and give you a nice solid surface for books without too much risk of warping. Do you have a jigsaw for cutting the curved front of the shelves? Here's a helpful guide: How to use a jigsaw. The https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-500w-75mm-corded-jigsaw-rjs750-g-tool-only_p6210488 would be an excellent choice for this project. Although you could go with a battery-powered unit, longer cuts on thicker timber are best suited to the powered models.
For the vertical supports, it looks like they’ve used timber dowels, which gives that clean, modern look. If you’re trying to replicate it, you’d want to go for one of the thicker dowels for strength and stability. The closest options would be the https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-43mm-3m-clear-pine-dowel_p0082337 or https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-42-4-x-42-4mm-3-0m-tasmanian-oak-dowel_p0082334 . Both are solid choices, with the Tasmanian oak being a bit harder and more durable.
It also looks like the timber has been stained to achieve a consistent colour, especially if different timber types were used. After staining, it’s a good idea to apply a polyurethane varnish over the top. This helps protect the surface from scratches, moisture, and general wear, especially for something like a bookshelf that’ll get regular use.
How are you thinking of connecting the shelves to the posts? That’s probably the trickiest part to get right.
Let me tag some of our knowledgeable members, @Dave-1, @Alicia_Woodwork, @WoodenGregsWood, @woodenwookie, @woodalwaysworks and @JoeAzza, as I would be interested to hear how they would approach connecting the posts to the shelves.
Also, are you planning to stick pretty close to this design, or tweak it at all? Happy to help you size things up or talk through the build as you go. Would be great to see how it comes together.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Good morning @langas18
The timber that has been used looks a little like the one below
The round legs I would suggest to go with @MitchellMc's suggestions.
A few things to note. That type of timber bench may want to separate/split down the track especially with a wavy cut like that (easily fixed with a small piece of timber screwed underside if it looks like its going to happen)
If you dont want a super deep shelf then the 600mm can be effectively cut down the center with the wavy line and then the second half is flipped. I would suggest to mark out on some scrap paper your wavy line design and then flip it to make sure its accurate.
Oh and I would use pine or a lighter weight timber just for ease of movement. I would also possibly add some timber trim rails to the rear of the shelves just to stop books being pushed off at the back. :)
I was thinking of the rounded top to go with the bookcase style.
Dave
Some great points there @Dave-1 , especially around splitting the panel and reinforcing underneath. That’s a really clever way to get the most out of the board.
Keen to get your thoughts on the dowels as well. How would you approach connecting them to the shelves? Would you run them through as a single length and fix the shelves at set heights, or look at something like angled screws or small brackets for the connection?
From the image, it looks like they might be in split sections. Perhaps countersinking holes in the top and bottom of the shelves with a bit the same size as the dowel and gluing them in position could be a more secure option? I was thinking of something like the rendering I've created.
How would you approach connecting them? Mitchell
Some great insights from @Dave-1 there @langas18, especially around how to get the most out of the panel and keep things stable over time.
That idea of marking out the wave and flipping it is a really good tip if you’re aiming for a clean, consistent look. The suggestion around adding a rear trim is also worth considering, depending on how you plan to use the shelf.
How are you thinking of approaching it from here? Are you leaning towards a full-depth shelf, or something a bit shallower?
Also keen to hear your thoughts on how you’d like to connect the shelves to the posts, as that’s probably the key part of the build and will influence how everything comes together.
Happy to help you work through the next steps as you go. Would be great to see how this one develops.
Morning @MitchellMc / @langas18
I was thinking of smaller dowel being used as pins to secure the shelves. Either 4" bullet head nails or smaller timber dowels. Above and bellow the shelves so the shelves cant be bumped upwards. It would also mean easy removal . The more I think of it the more I like the idea of a larger dowel on the underside of the shelf all the way through the post so it has the means to support the shelves and then a smaller dowel all the way through to look the shelf in place.
The posts I had presumed to be solid all the way up, tho this may be hard as the tolerances will mean it needs to be exact. But I think it would give most rigidness to the bookcase, especially without any stays. (Diagonal bracing)
Was just looking at the picture again and maybe they have gone the route of using
these type guys into the timber slab with no holes drilled through the slab?
Im not sure how solid it will stay is all. Once you add books/items it will want to "lean" and having the one contact point might make it a little weak.
Just for ref my first bookcase I built had no stays and was made from pine, in the shape of a traditional bookcase. Its still standing :) but it really likes to lean if it gets a chance. I built it 1995-96 I think….
@Dave-1,
Do you think using https://www.bunnings.com.au/everhang-m8-x-80mm-zinc-plated-hanger-bolt-4-pack_p2310840 and https://www.bunnings.com.au/taskmaster-m8-x-15mm-brass-plated-curved-insert-nuts_p0108615 and a rebate would be overkill? I like the idea of the two posts actively pulling themselves into the shelf joint when tightened. Perhaps rebating the dowels is not needed.
Morning @MitchellMc
Mmmm its a hard call, You are relying upon the contact point with the screw/timber to hold everything in place. It should work but I like over engineered stuff especially with unknown loads down the track. (Yes we all overfill our bookshelves :) )
I do admit that I have never used those bolts and nuts, have looked at them a lot but usually figured a way around needing them. I also dont really trust my skill level to drill the dowel without causing it to split once the inset nuts are used.
Hi @langas18 ,
Just checking in to see whether you’ve had any more thoughts on the build or have made some progress. There were some really interesting ideas raised around the shelf connections and I’d be keen to hear which direction you’re leaning towards now.
Would be great to see how this one develops if you decide to tackle it.
Thanks everyone so so much! This is all super helpful and is going to make the project a lot easier now I think!
I admittedly haven’t started yet and is a project for in a little while but I’ll be sure to come back and update the thread once I’ve started!
We look forward to seeing what you can build @langas18. Please let us know if we can assist further.
Jason
