Hi, I intent to level the sides of the property. I’m considering taking this on as a DIY project, starting with a small section (around 0.9 m Side) and progressing gradually. After levelling, the plan is to finish the area with either pebbles or grass. I’d like to understand: * Whether this is something I can safely do myself * If there are any council regulations or building codes I need to follow * Considerations around water drainage on that side My approach would be to ensure everything is done in line with the relevant rules and standards. I’ll be working on this mainly over weekends, progressing slowly and steadily. Could you please advise on: * Applicable guidelines or codes to follow * Tools or equipment I might need to purchase or hire (e.g., from Bunnings) Thank you in advance for your guidance. Thanks MM

Thanks @Dave-1. Great to follow your thoughts once our garden is established.

Good Morning @nagumuthu The hessian bags I use for weed suppression, they are recyled coffee sacks to be exact and I have found they do a really nice job of slowing down weeds. They also insulate the ground and with the added cane mulch/chickpea straw mulch it keeps teh beds tidy bfor a longer period. I am still not 100% sold that it allows as much water through as possible but considering I water the base of each tomato plant (usually thats what grows here) it really works. The bags stop grass from growing up into the bed and only minimal weeding as I water is generally needed. Dave

Thanks @Dave-1 for sharing your thoughts and the photos . Could you please explain the purpose of covering the soil with jute bags, and which type of compost has been used in the photo?

nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

How to level ground on side of property?

nagumuthu

Hi,

I intent to level the sides of the property. I’m considering taking this on as a DIY project, starting with a small section (around 0.9 m Side) and progressing gradually.

After levelling, the plan is to finish the area with either pebbles or grass.

I’d like to understand:

Whether this is something I can safely do myself
If there are any council regulations or building codes I need to follow
Considerations around water drainage on that side

My approach would be to ensure everything is done in line with the relevant rules and standards.

I’ll be working on this mainly over weekends, progressing slowly and steadily.

Could you please advise on:

Applicable guidelines or codes to follow
Tools or equipment I might need to purchase or hire (e.g., from Bunnings)

Thank you in advance for your guidance.

Thanks
MM

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Landscaping

Accepted answers

All comments

JacobZ

Hi @nagumuthu,

A lot of what you’re asking comes down to the specifics of your site. Things like whether the work is along a boundary, how much height difference you are creating, and whether it could affect neighbouring properties all play a big role. Drainage in particular is important. If your changes redirect water onto a neighbour’s property, that can create issues.

From a council point of view, the best step is to contact them directly. Requirements can vary depending on your area. As a general guide, once you start changing ground levels, especially on boundaries, you may trigger rules around retaining walls, drainage, or even approvals if certain height thresholds are exceeded.

In terms of the work itself, levelling often involves more than just moving soil. If there is any height difference, you may need to look at some form of retaining structure to support the area. You might also need to bring in additional fill material such as soil, sand or aggregates to achieve the level you’re aiming for. Making sure the ground is properly compacted is important as well, otherwise it can settle unevenly over time. It’s also worth thinking ahead about how water will move across the area once it’s finished so you don’t create drainage problems later on.

For tools and equipment, this will depend on how involved the project becomes. At a basic level, you would likely be using shovels, rakes and a wheelbarrow to move material, along with string lines and stakes to set your levels. A spirit level or laser level will help you get a consistent finish. If you’re working with fill, a plate compactor is a good idea and can be hired through our Hire Shop. If any retaining elements are needed, you might also find yourself using tools like a post hole digger or concrete mixer depending on the setup.

In short, it can definitely be a D.I.Y. job at a small scale, but just make sure you check with council first and keep drainage and neighbour impacts front of mind as you go.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please let us know.

Jacob

nagumuthu

Thanks @JacobZ

I am Posting few photos that sheds more light on the topic.

Currently, I am clearing the vegetation in the back yard, preparing for the project.

After the vegetation is cleared, I intent to use 0.9m side for filling soil and leveling. I am concerned about slope for drainage to the pipe. Any guidance is appreciated in this regard.

JacobZ

Hi @nagumuthu,

Thanks for the photos, they certainly help to give us an idea of what you are working with. I'll focus on that side path for now as it is a great starting point.

As you already have retaining walls in place, and the height being adjusted is minimal, it's unlikely you are going to need any kind of council approval, but it's still worth double checking to be safe.

When grading around your home, generally speaking, level is not really the goal. You want to have a very slight fall, of at least 10mm per metre, away from the house to prevent surface water from running back towards your home, where it can cause issues. On your side path, the best approach would be to have a very slight slope towards the retaining wall, so the surface water runs towards the retaining wall rather than the house. You'd then need some https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/bathroom-plumbing/plumbing/drainage/agi-pipe along the back of the retaining wall to collect the water if there isn't already one there. You can then have a plumber connect that agi pipe into the stormwater pipes that are likely running along the edge of your house.

When grading around your home, you also want to consider the location of your weepholes and dampcourse in relation to the finished ground. Generally, the finished ground level should sit at least 75mm below the dampcourse to prevent pooling water from bridging the dampcourse or entering your weepholes as that will allow moisture to track into the structure. So, the thickness of material layers, including soil, stones and turf, need to be considered. This could mean removing soil, or it could mean adding it. It all depends on circumstance.

Now to build up the surface, if you were planting grass, you'd use a top dress or levelling mix such as this https://www.bunnings.com.au/scotts-lawn-builder-20l-levelling-mix_p0938167 . Ideally, you should have 50-100mm of top dress to give your grass a quality substrate to put down roots in. Top dress can often be ordered in bulk quantities, but as suppliers are regional, you would have to speak with your local store's Special Orders team to see what options are available.

Once the soil is in place, you can grade it using a https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-soil-spreader_p0701758 , ensuring you have that very slight fall away from the house.

If you were instead using pebbles or stones, the same principles apply, but the materials would differ. Just make sure there is a very slight fall away from the house. If using stones, the fall should be in the substrate, so you might need to grade it slightly before adding your stones.

Hopefully this helps. If you have further questions, please let me know.

Jacob

nagumuthu

Thanks @JacobZ

Below is draft set of steps for the project, structured as a 9-week plan. I would appreciate it if you could review it and suggest any corrections or improvements.

Once the plan is finalised, I intend to proceed with the execution accordingly. I would like to take some time to ensure I clearly understand the work method and expected outcome for each task before moving on to the next step.

At this stage, I have not yet completed a formal risk assessment. After receiving your feedback, I will undertake a risk assessment for the project—for example, considering scenarios such as unexpected rainfall and determining appropriate mitigation measures.

Side 1: 0.9m side

Side 2: 1.2m side

Thanks for your time.

Please recommend suitable items from Bunnings store. (e.g recommended weed killer etc)

Step	Task	Materials	Tools Required	Method	Hours	Week	🔍 Critical Measurements / Checks
1	Site clearing	Weed killer	Shovel, rake, gloves	Remove weeds & debris	4	W1	✅ Fully clear ✅ Roots removed
2	Set levels & slope	Stakes, string	Spirit level, tape	Set fall away from house	2	W1	📏 10–15 mm drop/m 📏 ≥75 mm below weepholes
3	Side 1 digging (0.9m)	—	✅ Mattock, shovel	Break soil, remove highs	5	W2	📏 Depth ~50–75 mm ✅ Even base
4	Side 1 base spread	Road base (~1 m³)	Wheelbarrow, rake, ✅ soil spreader	Spread base evenly	2	W2	📏 Thickness ~75 mm 📏 Maintain slope
5	Compact Side 1 (access path) ✅	—	✅ Plate compactor, hose	Compact 2–3 passes	2	W2	✅ No footprints ✅ Hard surface
6	Backyard rough levelling	—	Shovel, rake, straight edge	Cut highs, fill lows	6	W3	📏 Maintain fall ✅ No dips
7	Transport soil to backyard	Topsoil (~5 m³)	Wheelbarrow	Move via compacted path	6	W4	✅ Stable loads ⚠️ Don’t overload
8	Spread backyard soil	Remaining soil	✅ Soil spreader, rake	Spread ~75–100 mm	4	W5	📏 Soil depth 75–100 mm 📏 Below weepholes
9	Final lawn leveling ✅	—	Soil spreader, rake, straight edge	Fine grading	2	W5	📏 Max variation <10 mm ✅ Smooth
10	Light compaction (backyard)	—	Plate compactor, hose	Light passes only	2	W5	✅ Firm but not hard
✅ 11	Build veggie garden bed (before pebbles)	Timber	Drill, saw, level	Build frame	6	W6	📏 Height 200–300 mm ✅ Level top
✅ 12	Fill veggie bed	Soil (~2 m³)	Shovel	Fill evenly	2	W6	✅ Even fill ✅ Slightly below top
✅ 13	Finish Side 1 (pebbles last)	Pebbles (~0.7 m³), weed mat	Knife, rake	Lay mat → spread stones	3	W6	📏 Pebble depth 30–50 mm
14	Side 2 digging (1.2m)	—	Mattock, shovel	Same as Side 1	7	W7	📏 Depth ~50–75 mm
15	Drain trench	AGI pipe (25m), gravel	Shovel, level	Dig trench	4	W7	📏 Depth 150–200 mm 📏 Fall to outlet
16	Install drainage	Included	Spirit level	Lay + cover pipe	2	W7	✅ Continuous slope ✅ No flat spots
17	Side 2 base	Road base (~1.1 m³)	Wheelbarrow, rake, spreader	Spread evenly	3	W8	📏 Thickness ~75 mm
18	Compact Side 2	—	Plate compactor, hose	Compact passes	2	W8	✅ Hard surface
19	Finish Side 2	Pebbles + mat	Rake	Lay stones	3	W8	📏 Pebble depth 30–50 mm
20	Front yard leveling	Soil (~1 m³)	Rake, spreader	Level ground	3	W9	📏 Soil depth 75–100 mm
21	Driveway garden strip	Plants, mulch	Trowel	Plant + mulch	2	W9	✅ Good spacing
22	Lay turf (all areas)	Turf (~61.5 m²)	Knife, hose	Lay tightly & water	5	W9	📏 No gaps >10 mm
23	Lawn rolling	—	✅ Lawn roller	Roll surface	2	W9	✅ Good soil contact

JacobZ

Hi @nagumuthu,

Wow, that's an extremely comprehensive plan. You're certainly making sure that you are prepared and aware of what to expect. From what I can see you've covered all bases and have set reasonable time frames when considering you would likely be doing the work alone.

With this considered, I would use this plan as a guide but give yourself a bit of leeway to not follow it too rigidly. Most of these tasks don’t need to be broken down into a strict week-by-week schedule or formalised to this level, and trying to follow it too rigidly may actually slow you down. Follow along but be flexible enough to change things around if needs be.

The process flows logically and the tools look good. The one main thing that sticks out to me is Step 10, the light compaction of the backyard after bringing in topsoil. I wouldn't worry about this step at all. While spreading the soil around, it will settle enough. Compacting it further, especially with a plate compactor, will just inhibit the roots from pushing through the soil and establishing themselves. As long as there are no major air pockets in the soil, which there shouldn't be after spreading, there's no real need for compaction here.

The other thing I have noticed is that with your agi pipe, you haven't defined a clear output. Agi pipe needs to run to something, and in urban areas, ideally that is a stormwater line which is plumbed into council infrastructure. Unfortunately, if the agi pipe is feeding into a stormwater line, this must be done by a licenced plumber. So, I'd take a bit of time to work out where the agi pipe is going to run to and make accommodations in your plan if this will require a plumber.

For weed clearing, glyphosate-based weedkillers such as Roundup tend to be the most effective option, particularly for controlling established or persistent weeds, as they are absorbed through the leaves and work into the root system. If you’re looking for an alternative, products like https://www.bunnings.com.au/ocp-20l-concentrate-slasher-organic-weedkiller_p0076999?msockid=1c33251e0fa660161fe832420ea36103 can be a suitable non-glyphosate option. These act more quickly on contact but may require repeat applications, especially on tougher weeds, and are often preferred where a lower-toxicity approach is desired. I would go with Slasher and note that you will likely need multiple applications over the course of the project.

For your veggie gardens, you need to use h4 treated timber, with MicroPro sleepers being my suggestion as they use a lower-toxicity treatment which is better for use around edible plants.

Outside of these, the tools and materials mentioned in your schedule are all pretty straightforward. If there was a particular tool or material that you wanted a recommendation, guidance or further explanation on, please let me know.

I look forward to seeing you break ground and get stuck into your landscaping project. It will be awesome to see things progress and your vision come to life.

Jacob

MitchellMc

Hi @nagumuthu,

I have to say, that was one of the most detailed and well thought-out landscaping plans I’ve seen posted on Workshop in quite some time.

Did you end up getting started on the project yet? I’d be especially interested to hear how the levelling and drainage side of things progressed once you began working through it practically rather than just on paper.

These larger landscaping projects always evolve a little once the digging starts, so I’d be curious to hear whether the plan changed much along the way.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc.
I started digging and wondering on how to get the timber around this metal grate?

Aside have protruding pipes and not sure on the level of soil around it.

nagumuthu

Also I noticed concrete bulks while digging. Should I break them using an equipment ( not sure which equipment I should hire). Otherwise it prevents and occupies the soil space.

Also many stones, wood blocks, building materials were forked out from the soil. Should stone and wood stay in the soil or to be discarded.

Should soil level be filled in until the green mat

MitchellMc

Hi @nagumuthu,

Please note that plumbing work needs to be completed by a licensed professional for safety and compliance.

Currently, the stormwater pit is the feature that governs the finished soil height in this area. You shouldn't raise the soil level above the sides of the pit, as it needs to remain accessible and able to collect water properly.

Once you've determined the finished level required to create a flat surface, a licensed plumber can raise the stormwater pit to suit if necessary. Based on the photos, it looks like the pit may need to be adjusted upwards if you're planning to significantly raise the surrounding soil level.

The same principle applies to the inspection openings on the pipes. You can bring the soil level up to just below the lip of each fitting, but they should remain exposed and accessible.

The large piece of concrete appears to be the footing for the post. I wouldn't recommend removing it, as doing so could compromise the stability of the structure. You may be able to clean up any loose or protruding sections, and hopefully the finished soil level will conceal most of it.

Any foreign material such as timber offcuts, building debris, and rubbish should generally be removed from the soil. Stones can remain if they're small and scattered, but larger rocks are usually best removed if they're going to interfere with levelling, drainage, or planting.

You should not cover the green mat with soil. Looking at the photos, bringing the soil level up to the green mat would likely place it above the current stormwater pit height, which would create another issue that would need to be addressed first.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc

I have completed some cut-and-fill work and removed a number of weeds from the area.

During the process, I collected several materials, including large sandstone pieces, rocks of various sizes, concrete fragments, and other debris. What would be the best way to dispose of these materials? Is it preferable to accumulate a larger quantity before arranging disposal, or should they be removed in smaller loads as they are collected?

2. Also, regarding the fill level, should the soil be finished approximately 75 mm below this opening?

Thanks

nagumuthu

Also, could you please advise on the appropriate soil level around the AC unit?

If I fill the soil to approximately 75 mm below the weep holes, part of the AC unit will end up being below the surrounding soil level. However, if I keep the soil level only up to the concrete base of the AC unit, the finished ground level will appear uneven on the other three sides of the unit.

Could you please advise on the best approach in this situation?

MitchellMc

It looks like you're making good progress @nagumuthu.

For the sandstone, rocks, concrete fragments and other debris, I'd generally recommend accumulating a reasonable quantity before arranging disposal. Small amounts can often be disposed of over time, but once you have a substantial pile it becomes more cost-effective and convenient to take it to a recycling or waste facility in a single trip, or arrange for a skip bin if required.

Regarding the finished soil level, it should not be brought above the height of the surrounding concrete slabs. Around both the home and the air-conditioning unit, I'd recommend keeping the finished soil level at or slightly below the top of the concrete base. This helps prevent moisture issues and ensures these features remain accessible.

For the air-conditioning unit specifically, don't be concerned if the surrounding soil ends up slightly lower than the rest of the area. It's preferable to have a small change in level than to bury part of the concrete pad or create conditions where water could collect around the unit.

To help establish your final levels, I'd suggest running a string line from the top of the concrete slab and near the AC unit across to the fence, with additional lines at the ends and middle of the area. Use a string line level to ensure the lines are level. This will give you a clear visual reference for the maximum height that the surrounding soil should reach and make it much easier to achieve a consistent finished grade.

Mitchell

R4addZ

Hi @nagumuthu

Just a thought, if you are intending putting something on top of the soil, you should consider making the soil level that bit lower to allow for the topping be it pebbles or turf.

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc for the guidance.

1. If the soil level is kept below the concrete base as shown in the image above, it will expose the material (as indicated in the image below—I’m not sure of the exact term for this mortar and why it is surfaces at an uneven render). This would result in an uneven finish once the soil is backfilled.

2 I noticed that in the alfresco area, part of the tiles would be covered by soil if the above method is followed. Is that okay?

nagumuthu

Also, the black sheet is attached between the bricks. Am I allowed to cut and trim it, or should I just cut it and fold it under the soil that will be added during this project?

MitchellMc

From your photo, it appears that the slab may have needed to be packed out with mortar so the bricklayer could lay the first course of bricks level @nagumuthu.

My advice would still be the same: I would not recommend raising the soil above the top of the concrete slab. Although there is a damp-proof course (DPC) visible higher up the wall, it is still best practice not to pile soil against the brickwork, as moisture can be drawn into the bricks over time.

Whilst exposing some of that mortar isn't necessarily the most attractive finish, it's preferable to creating a moisture issue by raising the soil level too high. If required, you could consider tidying the exposed section with a more uniform render or covering it with decorative aggregate, provided the soil level remains below the slab height.

Regarding the alfresco tiles, could you please take a side-on photo showing the relationship between the tiles, slab and proposed soil level? Are you suggesting that the finished tile surface is actually lower than the top of the concrete slab? If so, a few additional photos would help us better understand the situation and provide more accurate advice.

Covering the tiles with soil is probably not going to cause any issues.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanka @MitchellMc.

I will maintain the soil height as recommended, ensuring it does not exceed the concrete slab level, and will fix the uneven mortar to achieve a smooth finish once the soil is filled. I’m not sure what “decorative aggregate” refers to. Some information will be beneficial for further thoughts.

Please find a few photos showing the interface between the alfresco tiles and the concrete slab.

MitchellMc

The larger black material hanging down below the mortar bed looks more like builder's plastic/vapour barrier from beneath the slab, which has been left protruding after construction @nagumuthu.

In that case, it is generally not serving an active purpose once exposed in this manner, and it's quite common for excess material to be trimmed back for a neater finish.

If it is simply excess slab membrane, then trimming it neatly back to just below ground level would typically be preferable to folding it over into the soil, as folded plastic can sometimes create pockets that trap debris and moisture.

By decorative aggregate, I simply mean decorative stones or pebbles that can be used as a ground covering instead of exposing bare soil. They are often used around foundations and garden beds to create a neater appearance while still allowing drainage. Common examples include river pebbles, polished pebbles and decorative gravel.

If you're able to achieve a smoother finish on the exposed mortar, a narrow strip of decorative aggregate along the base of the wall could help soften the appearance and create a more finished look without needing to raise the soil level.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @R4addZ. Sorry I missed to reply to your thread.

Thank you for highlighting the pebbles—it serves as a helpful reminder for me to account for them during soil volume calculations and achieve the desired soil level.

Thank you.

nagumuthu

Should I initiate a discussion with a plumber now (I’m planning to ask the local Bunnings store to recommend one) regarding the installation of Agi pipes and lifting the grate? Or I can do that at the start of soil filling process, which is expected to happen, once all the weeds are cleared. I'm planning to chemical spray this week on the plants to deactivate them.

nagumuthu

Weed Killer:

1. Does ‘Roundup / Slasher’ weed killer works for these grown up plants. If not could you please recommend a product. Do I need to buy any accessories for the spray. I've provided the steps in this process. Could it be confirmed for workability.

2. Steps:

Spray the weeds while they are actively growing.
Leave the area undisturbed for about 7 days so the spray can work properly.
After that remove the dead growth.
Top up and level the soil.
Allow the soil to settle for another 7 days.
Add compost or soil improver (For veggie plantations)
Then plant the veggie garden

3. If the waiting period after weed spraying extends beyond 7 days and there is a possibility of residual chemicals remaining in the soil, I can remove the weeds manually instead of using chemicals, as this would be quicker. My main concern is ensuring that any weed control chemicals do not affect the planted veggies.

I would also like to understand how these chemicals dissipate from the soil—do they naturally break down or get washed away over time through rain or watering?

Is there a DIY test kit available to measure the glyphosate level after 7 days?

Thank you.

MitchellMc

Hi @nagumuthu,

I would recommend speaking with a plumber sooner rather than later, even before all the weeds are cleared. A plumber can assess the existing drainage levels, determine whether the grate needs to be raised, and advise on the depth and placement of the Agi pipe before you start bringing in soil. This can help avoid having to redo any work later.

For the weed control:

1. Will Roundup or Slasher work?

Roundup (glyphosate) is generally effective on established, actively growing weeds when applied according to the label.
Slasher can be effective on soft green growth but may be less reliable on larger, well-established weeds and may require repeat applications.
A garden pressure sprayer is usually the easiest way to apply either product evenly.

2. Your proposed sequence is generally sound

3. Impact on future vegetable planting

After seven days, you are able to replant in the area where the Round-Up was used. As far as I am aware, there are no commonly available DIY home test kits. However, as Round-Up is non-residual and not active in the soil, you can plant relatively quickly after its use.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc.

I’ll check with the local Bunnings store about a plumber, and I’d also appreciate your thoughts on weed control and planting vegetables.

1. Another question moving forward is about a very slight fall, of at least 10mm per metre, away from the house to prevent surface water from running back towards your home, where it can cause issues. How to achieve this and what tools does this require?

2. For ordering the soil (for pebbles / grass), are there any recommendations?

Thank you.

MitchellMc

If you're located in the Sydney region @nagumuthu, you could utilise the Bunnings Services Marketplace to connect with a licensed plumber for the drainage work. Alternatively, services such as Airtasker and Hipages can be useful for obtaining a few quotes and finding local tradespeople.

Regarding the fall away from the house, the goal is to create a gentle slope so surface water naturally drains away from the building. A fall of around 10mm per metre means that for every metre you move away from the house, the ground level should drop by approximately 10mm.

A simple way to achieve this is to:

Set a string line between two stakes.
Use a string level to make the string level.
Measure down from the string at various points to determine your finished soil levels.
Adjust the soil until you achieve the desired fall away from the house.

Tools that can help include:

String line and string level
Tape measure
Landscape rake
Shovel
Wheelbarrow

A long straight edge can also be handy for checking the finished grade over shorter distances.

For ordering soil, the best option depends on what you intend to do with the area:

Under pebbles: A compactable landscape fill or garden soil is typically suitable for establishing the levels before laying weed mat and decorative stone.
For turf: A quality turf underlay soil is usually recommended as it provides a suitable growing medium and levels easily.
For vegetable gardens: Look for a premium garden mix or raised garden bed mix with added organic matter and compost.

Before ordering, it can be worthwhile measuring the area and calculating the volume required in cubic metres. Our Special Orders team in-store can let you know what's available in your area and place an order for you with our suppliers.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc for the guidance.

I can accurately set up a string line with a 10mm fall between two stakes. Once sufficient soil has been placed, would it be appropriate to make a jig or template that matches this fall and push it along the entire 15m length to ensure a consistent 10mm gradient throughout?

Would you also recommend hiring a compactor to properly compact the soil? I’m not sure what method or criteria should be used to confirm that the soil has been adequately compacted.

My understanding is that after compaction, the soil level will likely drop below the required 10mm fall, meaning additional soil will need to be added and compacted again until the final level is achieved.

I anticipate this process may occur and would like to confirm that my understanding is correct, so I can avoid any oversight during the works.

Thank you.

MitchellMc

Yes, using a screed board, jig, or template that matches the required fall is a good way to check that the gradient remains consistent along the full 15 m length @nagumuthu. The string line should still be used as the primary reference, but a template can help identify any high or low spots between the stakes.

I would recommend using a plate compactor, particularly if the area will support paving, concrete, or any other surface where settlement could cause issues later. The soil should be compacted in layers rather than all at once. A general guide is to place and compact the material in lifts of approximately 50–100 mm, depending on the soil type and compactor being used. We hire compactors if you'd like to use one.

Your understanding of the process is correct. Compaction will typically cause the soil level to reduce, so it is common to add material, compact it, check levels, and repeat as required until the finished level and fall are achieved.

Once the final compaction has been completed, recheck the levels against the string line to ensure the required fall has been maintained across the entire length.

Mitchell

nagumuthu

Thanks @MitchellMc

Is the screed board mentioned in your message something that can be purchased from Bunnings, or is it usually custom-made?

With some effort, and to reduce the amount of spraying required, I managed to pull out most of the weeds and plants, although there is still a small amount remaining on the left-hand side.

Old photo:

I also noticed a recycled water tank and a PVC pipe protruding near it (above image). Is there anything I should be mindful of when levelling the soil around the water tank and the pipe?

2. For the remaining creeping weeds on the ground, would you recommend spraying them now to deactivate them, or will the weed mat be sufficient to prevent them from growing through?

Thank you!

EricL

Hello @nagumuthu

Yes, you can get a screed tool such as the https://www.bunnings.com.au/masterfinish-placer-rake_p5960120 , https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-36t-garden-rake_p3360945 and the https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-soil-spreader_p0701758 . But in regard to the angle and measurement you'll need to build the screed board manually.

I recommend speaking to your plumber in regard to the recycle tank and if a cover of sorts can be made over it. I suspect that access to the tank will be necessary from time to time. The same would go for the pipe coming out of the soil.

As to the remaining vegetation, I suggest following the suggestions made in the other post and spraying the area with your preferred herbicide.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

nagumuthu

Thanks, @EricL , for the advice.

I have another question regarding the sleepers (2 or 3 depending on the height) currently installed below the fence. I am planning a vegetable garden approximately 0.5 m in height and 0.5 m in depth over a length of 10 m. Would a retaining wall be required to hold the soil and prevent any potential sagging or pressure on the fence?

Additionally, if the same setup is constructed using blocks instead of sleepers, would a retaining wall still be necessary?

EricL

Hello @nagumuthu

In the interest of long-term safety and stability. I suggest building your vegetable garden as an independent structure. The sleepers under your fence have been constructed to shore up any soil pushing against it. Modifying its structure or covering it up could result in unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it does not help that the Colorbond posts travel along the entire length of the fence which means that it can't be covered in soil or it will rust.

By building the vegetable garden that is separate, no pressure will be applied to the retaining wall, and it will not affect your Colorbond fence or its structure. Should you decide to build it in concrete blocks, I still suggest building it as self-standing structure independent of the wall.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Remarka6le and @DIY4Knuckleheds for their recommendations.

Eric