Hi,
I am going to be tackling the framing of a new euro laundry this weekend.
The space is approx. 1.5m Wide x 0.9m Deep x 2.4m H
Any guidance on how to do this is appreciated!
Hi @Anthony068,
That’s a very manageable project to tackle yourself, especially since the area has already been stripped back to the existing framing. From your photos and render, the main job will be building a new internal stud wall that creates the Euro laundry while also forming the recessed bathroom entry beside it. The overall layout you’ve mocked up looks clean and should work well in the space.
The first thing to do is carefully set out the wall position. Spend some time measuring and marking where the finished wall will sit on both the floor and ceiling. It’s worth double-checking the width of the laundry opening, the clearance needed for the washing machine and dryer, and how much space is required around the bathroom entry. A laser level can make this much easier and will help keep everything aligned from the start.
Once your layout is marked, you can install the top and bottom plates using standard framing timber, commonly 90 x 45mm for internal walls. The bottom plate is fixed to the floor and the top plate directly above it on the ceiling. Making sure these are straight and perfectly aligned is one of the most important parts of the build, because every stud will follow that line.
From there, you can begin installing the vertical studs. Typical stud spacing is either 450mm or 600mm centres depending on your plasterboard requirements and how rigid you want the wall to feel. Around the laundry opening and bathroom entry, you’ll want additional framing to support the door jambs and keep the openings square. It’s a good idea to regularly check your studs with a spirit level as you go, because small errors can become very noticeable once doors and plasterboard are installed.
Before the wall gets sheeted, make sure you think through all your services. This includes power points, lighting, washing machine taps, drainage, and dryer ventilation if required. It’s also a great opportunity to add insulation inside the wall cavity to reduce laundry noise transferring into nearby rooms.
When the framing and rough-ins are complete, the wall can be plasterboarded, set, trimmed, and painted. Your recessed bathroom entry in the render is a smart design choice because it helps reduce the visual bulk of the laundry cabinetry and keeps the hallway feeling more open.
A few things that are worth keeping in mind during the build:
You’ll find this guide really helpful for the framing process and general stud wall construction: How to build a stud wall. Also, if you haven't come across this series, check out How to renovate a European-style laundry. Please note that plumbing and electrical work needs to be completed by a licensed professional for safety and compliance. Let me tag @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see if they have any thoughts.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi @MitchellMc Thanks for the quick response!
Is my understanding correct in that I can use the existing stud frames at the rear and LHS? So I just need to build a RHS stud wall and the top?
Any tips/guidance on how best to build the top section so that it adequatley supports the bi-fold door?
So:
Not overly confident in my understanding of how to build the door jambs etc so it supports the bi-fold door that is all.
Thanks!
Good Morning @Anthony068
Nice idea :) And very do able.
Some things to consider.
Here is the false walls I worked on, They really wernt hard to do, just a learning curve on things not always being straight or horizontal. :)
Looking forward to seeing your project :) Please take plenty photos!
Is there a reason you switched the utilities around?
Dave
Your understanding is basically correct.
Because the rear wall framing and the existing LHS framing are already there and appear structurally sound, you can absolutely use those as part of the new Euro laundry structure. In your case, you’re really only building the new RHS stud wall, the front bulkhead/header section above the laundry opening, and the framing/jamb support for the bifold doors. So the sequence you listed is spot on.
The RHS wall would get fixed into the floor plate, ceiling/top plate, and rear existing framing. Once that wall is in place, it effectively creates the new side of the laundry cavity and gives you a solid point to tie the rest of the framing into.
From there, the top section (bulkhead/header area) spans across from the existing LHS framing to your new RHS wall. That upper section forms the opening for the bifold doors. For bifold support specifically, the main thing is making the opening rigid and square rather than heavily structural in a load-bearing sense. Since this is a non-load-bearing internal wall, you generally don’t need a heavy structural lintel, but you do want the opening solid enough that the doors don’t twist, rack, or sag over time.
The best approach would be to double up the studs on both sides of the laundry opening, run a solid horizontal header across the top opening, use full-height king studs either side, and add noggins above the header to stiffen the bulkhead area. The bifold track will normally fix directly into the timber header across the top, so having a nice straight and solid piece there is important.
The easiest way to think about it is basically like building a standard doorway opening with full-height studs either side, a horizontal timber across the top, and short studs or noggins above that. That creates a rigid rectangular opening for the doors and makes installing jambs and trims much easier later on.
One thing I’d definitely recommend is checking the exact rough opening requirements from the bifold door manufacturer before you start framing. They’ll usually specify the required opening width, finished opening height, jamb allowances, and plasterboard thickness assumptions. That helps avoid the very common issue of building the opening too tight once plasterboard and trims are added.
The door jambs just require you to cut and fix upright lengths to the sides and a length across the top. It's much the same as a standard doorway. Here's a step-by-step guide: How to install door jambs.
I’ve attached a quick AI-render below that roughly shows how I’d approach the stud layout.
Hi @Dave-1
Apoligies, I am not moving the toilet. Thats simply how ChatGPT decided to create the render. It didnt have bearing on the laundry render so I didnt get it fixed.
The current framing shown in the image will remain, my intention is it will form the rear and LHS of the new Euro Laundry.
Hi @MitchellMc
Thanks for that! I also just watched a handy How To video from Hume so I think my understanding of the bi-fold door installation is much better.
I plan on trying to maximise as much of the opening as I can so I am going to try and place the studs supporting the bulk head right at either end.
Could I confirm the best screws to use? I was planning on using nails to build the frame and 14G 75mm batten screws for any points which need securing to eachother. (Frame to floor/ceiling etc)
I will definitley double/triple check all dimensions before the weekend!
Will upload progress pics next week.
Positioning the supporting studs as far to the outer edges as possible is the right way to maximise the bifold opening width @Anthony068.
Your fastening plan also sounds fine for this type of non-load-bearing wall. Framing nails are perfectly suitable for assembling the stud wall, while the 14G 75mm batten screws are a good choice for:
Just make sure you’re fixing into solid timber and not only plaster or lining material.
A mix of nails for framing and screws for tie-ins is usually the best combination for a project like this. Just so you know, we hire framing nail guns. If you are confident in using one, it would certainly increase the speed at which you could assemble the framing. We'll be looking forward to seeing your progress.
Hi @Anthony068
Another way to reduce costs is to pre drill for the pipework and electrical installs as this will reduce the labour costs on those installations. Plese keep in mind though that it is not good practice for these services to go horizontally across walls if avoidable. speak to your tradies before starting or whilst getting quotes.
Hello @Anthony068
Just to add to the suggestions made, please remember to add the measurements of your skirting board to you wall thickness to keep everything lined up. Please note the actual opening size of the laundry area to make sure that the appliances have proper clearance and will not hit either the wall or cabinet upon installation. I also suggest adding an exhaust fan inside the enclosure so that excess moisture and humidity will be pumped outside the house while using the dryer. I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of the size of the cabinet and the washing machine (there is ample room for bigger machines). These measurements are for reference only please adjust them to your needs. Please note that the opening does not include the frame of the bifold doors or the thickness of said doors while they are folded in.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @EricL, @MitchellMc
Thanks for that! I'll definitley be double checking.
My understanding is I should have the floor etc waterproofed and tiled. I just removed the old flooring underlay and am curious if I can simply lay the new tile underlay ontop of the exisiting particle board?
Yes, you can put the new tile underlay over the existing particle board. Please make sure to remove all the left-over nail heads that have been left on the particle board so that the tile underlay will lay flat and level. Please make sure to fix the tile underlay with the appropriate nails so that it is firmly attached to your floor.
