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How to fix old skirting marks on rendered brick wall?

Manish1

Hi,

I have removed old skirting and since the floor has been levelled bit down, the old marking on the rendered brick wall cannot masked with the same size skirting. I have scrapped the old glue along with thin layer of previous painting. I repainted it but still it is there. Do I have to apply some putty or re-render? Please advise.

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EricL

Hello @Manish1

Thank you for sharing your question about your rendered wall. I suggest scrapping the surface of the rendered wall with a https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-4x15-row-stainless-steel-wire-brush_p0800582 . Your goal is to strip the surface of the paint and try to get close back to the rendered surface of the wall. I then recommend using https://www.bunnings.com.au/parfix-500g-ready-to-use-multipurpose-filler-500g_p1210321 in combination with a https://www.bunnings.com.au/pro-renovator-50mm-plastic-scraper_p1660092 . I suggest putting on a light coat of the filler into the channel to level the surface.

Once the filler cures, I suggest using a https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-cork-sanding-block_p1670153 with your sandpaper. You want the surface to be flat and level in line with the wall. Wipe the surface clean with https://www.bunnings.com.au/parfix-sugar-soap-wipes-50-pack_p0517073 to remove all the sanding dust. You can then prime and paint the levelled surface.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Manish1

Sounds perfect to me. Thank you @EricL

MitchellMc

Hi @Manish1,

I thought I'd also mention that if this is an issue around the whole room you might consider install taller skirting to cover this area. The reason for suggesting this is that it will be a little difficult to convincingly blend this area. With the above method, you will fill and level the area, but via the action of sanding the filler back, you will smooth off and remove the texture from the wall. So, although it no longer be recessed, it will be smooth and that in itself will stand out.

You'll need to spend some time stippling paint over your repaired area to try and re-create the same textured effect. I'd give a 15mm Nap Roller Cover and a 21mm Nap Roller Cover a try. Apply your paint and then roll back over it with each roller cover to see which one you think is closest.

Let me tag @Anil51, @davidfko and @Giordi who have needed to repair similar areas with texture in the past.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

MitchellMc

Hi @Manish1,

Just checking in to see how you went with repairing the rendered wall after removing the old skirting.

Were you able to get the surface levelled out and blend the repaired area to your satisfaction? I'd be interested to hear how the repair turned out.

If you have any further questions or need a hand with the next stage of the project, please let us know.

Mitchell

Manish1

Hi Mitchell, I have given it a try but as you mentioned, the finish did not look that blended although I sanded it off. I am now considering to install a taller skirting as you suggested. However in Bunnings I can see 110 x 18mm 5.4m Moulding White Pine FJ Primed PR4 but it does not have groove behind like other skirting board does. I thought the groove would you give a deeper surface area for the liquid nail so that it would not ooze out when pressed against the wall. I am not sure if i can use it as skirting.

Previously I thought I would use only liquid nails for PVC skirting (i do not prefer to drill and use screws) but PVC are not available in 110 mm height. I am planning to use 6mm x35mm Red wall plugs to screw the pine board to the double brick wall along with Selleys liquid nail Green. Which screw do you recommend for this wall plugand any other advice will be very helpful. Thanks.

Manish1

@MitchellMc

JacobZ

Hi @Manish1,

Thanks for the update. It sounds like you've given the repair a good shot, and going with a taller skirting board is likely to give you the neatest overall finish.

The https://www.bunnings.com.au/110-x-18mm-5-4m-moulding-white-pine-fj-primed-pr4_p0020752 moulding is perfectly fine to use as a skirting board. The groove on the back of many skirting profiles, often called a backout or back relief, isn't there primarily to provide more space for adhesive. Its main purpose is to help improve the stability of the timber by relieving stresses that can lead to cupping or bowing, and it can also help the moulding sit more neatly against minor irregularities in the wall surface. While some installers do use the relief area for adhesive, it's really a secondary benefit rather than the reason for its inclusion. A flat-backed moulding, such as the 110x18mm you've mentioned above, can still be successfully installed as skirting, so I wouldn't be concerned about the absence of the groove.

Using Liquid Nails in combination with wall plugs and screws into the brick is a good approach. The adhesive will help keep the board tight against the wall and minimise movement, while the screws provide a secure mechanical fixing. I'd suggest using https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-7-x-35mm-green-wall-plugs-25-pack_p2260645 with these https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-8g-x-35mm-gold-passivated-countersunk-rib-head-chipboard-screw-30-pack_p2420235 .

Make sure you countersink the pilot holes using a countersink bit, drive your screws in so the head sits just below the surface of the timber, then use some filler to cover the screw heads. Allow the filler to dry, then give it a light sand before painting.

You might like to check out https://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-advice/home-improvement/walls/how-to-install-skirting-boards for some further guidance.

Please let us know if you require further assistance.

Jacob

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