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How to get rid of clover and other lawn weeds?

japbrizuela

I am newbie in maintaining my lawn. How to get rid off the weeds in my lawn? There are different weeds in my lawn. I don’t know what are the names of the weeds. I don’t know the type of my lawn as well. How to make my lawn beautiful? There are lot of patches. How to fill the gaps in the lawn? Please guide me step by step.

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EricL

Hello @japbrizuela

Your lawn is actually in a much better position than it may feel right now. Looking at the photo and taking the season into account, I would be cautious about making any major renovations during winter. The lawn appears thin and dormant from the colder weather, while the bright green patches are likely a mix of clover and other winter broadleaf weeds. I can also see what some winter grass (Poa annua) may be appearing in scattered areas. The underlying turf is difficult to identify from this photo alone, but it could be one of the common Australian warm-season lawns such as buffalo, couch or kikuyu, all of which slow down significantly during winter.

My best advice is to focus on weed control and lawn health now, then undertake major repair work in spring. Winter is generally not the ideal time to try filling large bare patches because warm-season grasses are not actively growing and will struggle to spread into those areas. If you remove weeds and patch heavily now, you may simply end up with bare soil for several months.

For the weeds, a good starting point is a buffalo-safe selective herbicide. If you are unsure of the lawn type, https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-2-4l-buffalopro-weed-n-feed-hose-on-weed-killer_p0178166 is one of the safer options available through Bunnings and is specifically designed to control clover and many common broadleaf weeds while being suitable for buffalo and other common lawn types. Apply it on a mild, dry day when the weeds are actively growing and avoid mowing for a few days before and after application.

If winter grass is present, it may require a specific winter grass treatment because standard broadleaf weed killers will not control it. Yates notes that winter grass requires a dedicated winter grass product rather than a standard broadleaf herbicide. However, I would suggest tackling the broadleaf weeds first and then reassessing once they have died back.

After the weeds begin to decline, resist the temptation to heavily fertilise. In winter, warm-season lawns are not actively growing, so large applications of fertiliser often provide limited benefit. Instead, keep mowing regularly, but at a slightly higher setting, and ensure the lawn is not becoming waterlogged. A higher mowing height will help the existing grass retain as much leaf area as possible through winter.

Once temperatures begin to warm in spring, that is when you can really transform the lawn. Start by removing any dead weed material, lightly top-dressing the lawn with a quality lawn soil mix, and applying a slow-release lawn fertiliser. At that stage the lawn will be actively growing and able to spread into bare areas. If you have buffalo or kikuyu, many of the patches will naturally fill as runners spread. Larger bare sections can be repaired with matching turf pieces or plugs.

The encouraging thing is that I do not see a lawn that needs replacing. I see a lawn that has been weakened by weeds and winter conditions. If you control the weeds over the next few weeks and wait until spring for major recovery work, you will give the grass the best chance of thickening up and outcompeting future weeds naturally.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

R4addZ

Hi @japbrizuela

I recently read an article on a guy that has one of the best lawns in Perth and all he does is fertilize regularly and mow often, apparrently weeds can't get established in a well tended and healthy lawn. This year I tried regularly fertilizing mine and there were pretty much no weeds to be dealt with! Yes I would initially use a lawn safe weedkiller but then I would follow the above principle! Oh and water regularly!

japbrizuela

Hi @EricL,

Thank you for your comprehensive advice.

Would you suggest hand-weed a broadleaf or any other winter weeds? Or much better to use the Yates?

I have a much closer photo of the lawn which you might identify what type of lawn it is.

In mowing the lawn during winter, what height level should I use with my mower?

MitchellMc

Hi @japbrizuela,

Given the number of weeds throughout the lawn, I'd start by applying the Yates BuffaloPro Weed 'N' Feed. It should take care of many of the common broadleaf weeds, including the clover that I can see in your latest photo. Once it's had time to work, you can reassess the lawn and hand-pull any weeds that remain. With the amount of weeds you currently have, using the herbicide first will save you a lot of time and effort.

Looking at your closer photo, the lawn does appear very similar to buffalo. If you're not 100% sure, I'd simply assume it is buffalo and only use herbicides that are labelled as being safe for buffalo lawns. If a product is safe for buffalo, it's generally suitable for most other common lawn varieties as well.

For mowing over winter, I'd suggest using about height 3 on your mower. You generally don't want to go much lower than that, as it can scalp the lawn, particularly if your yard isn't perfectly level. Keeping the grass a little longer through winter will also help it stay healthier until the warmer weather returns.

Once spring arrives and the weeds are under control, we can look at fertilising and filling in those bare patches to really thicken the lawn up.

Here are a couple of helpful guides: How to weed your lawn and How to use lawn fertiliser.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

japbrizuela

Hi @MitchellMc,

Thank you for your tips. I appreciate it.

As the clover weeds are getting scattered, do I need to mow the lawn first or do the spraying of Yates, then mow?

I attached the latest photos of the lawn.

JacobZ

Hi @japbrizuela,

I'd recommend applying the weed killer first, rather than mowing beforehand. The more surface area there is, the better the herbicide will absorb into the weeds.

After spraying, wait at least 2–3 days before mowing. This gives the herbicide enough time to be absorbed and move through the weeds, resulting in better control.

Once the weeds have started to die back, you can resume your normal mowing schedule.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob

japbrizuela

Hi @JacobZ,

Thank you for the response.

In what weather condition should I start spraying the lawn? The weather is Cloudy and raining this week and next week.

MitchellMc

It's best not to apply lawn spray if rain is expected within the next 24-48hours @japbrizuela. It's best to wait until you have a bit of a break in the weather.

Mitchell

JacobZ

Hi @japbrizuela,

It's best to wait for a period of 2-3 days without rain. If you apply it during a wet period, the rain can wash it away before it has a chance to take effect.

With the upcoming rain, it might be best to give it a mow now just to keep it under control, then in a week or two when there is a stretch of time without rain, apply your weed killer.

Jacob

japbrizuela

Hi @JacobZ,

I have done mowing the lawn. If the weather is good, I will start doing the spray. How many times do I need to spray in a week? 3 x a week for how many weeks? Do I need to spray more onto the weeds?

JacobZ

Hi @japbrizuela,

This product is best used as needed, rather than on a fixed schedule. Applying it multiple times a week will not increase its effectiveness and can realistically cause more issues.

My suggestion is to apply it once, following the instructions closely, then wait 2-3 weeks and reevaluate. If weeds are still present, you can then reapply after those 2-3 weeks.

Applying more right now is not going to make it more effective. Remember, weed control is a marathon not a sprint.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

R4addZ

Hi @japbrizuela

If you have mowed the weeds/lawn, now is not the best time to be applying weedkiller! The weedkiller is absorbed through the leaves and is neutralised by the soil, so if you have removed most of the foliage of the weeds, it would be best to wait till they have grown back in order to get the best results. Note that @JacobZ actually advised this course of action a few posts back!

japbrizuela

I need another advice, please.

I have been using the Yates Buffalo ProWeed every 3 weeks in my lawn to get rid off the weeds. Next week will be my 3rd time of using the spray. Do I still need to continue using the spray every 3 weeks? There are some changes in the clover leaves like it turned to brown colour but majority still no improvement.

What should I do next?

Photos of the backyard and same conditions in the front yard.

EricL

Hello @japbrizuela

Since some of the clover leaves are already turning brown, the Yates Buffalo PRO is having an effect. You can proceed with the third application next week, provided it has been around 3 to 4 weeks since the last treatment. After that, I wouldn’t continue spraying automatically every three weeks. Give it another 3 to 4 weeks and see how much clover remains. Yates advises that weeds can take up to three weeks to show effects and that repeat treatments may be needed for established clover.

Because we’re coming toward the end of winter, the cooler weather can mean weeds and buffalo grass are growing more slowly, so weed killer may work more gradually. Choose a calm, dry day when the weeds are actively growing, with no rain expected for 24 hours, and avoid spraying if the lawn is dry or stressed. Also avoid mowing or fertilising for seven days before and after treatment.

As the weather warms into spring, shift your attention from repeated spraying to helping the buffalo lawn become thicker and healthier. Once the waiting period after spraying has passed and the lawn starts actively growing, mow appropriately, begin spring feeding, water deeply when needed, and address any thin or compacted areas. A thicker buffalo lawn will compete with clover and help reduce it naturally. If most of the clover still looks healthy several weeks after the third treatment, I’d identify the weed before applying more herbicide rather than simply continuing the three-week cycle.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

japbrizuela

Hi @EricL,

Thank you for your reply.

I applied the Yates buffalo yesterday.

I have a sample of the lawn which I attached photo here. If you could please identify if it is really a buffalo lawn.

Thank you.

JacobZ

Hi @japbrizuela,

It is tough to say with 100% certainty, but it looks more like Kikuyu to me.

Buffalo grasses usually have a broader leaf with a rounded tip. Those leaves are much more narrow and pointed, which is what makes me believe it is Kikuyu.

Have a read through https://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-advice/garden/lawn/common-lawn-types-and-how-to-identify-them for some further guidance.

Regardless, your buffalo product will work in a non-buffalo lawn, you just need to be persistent.

Jacob

japbrizuela

Hi @JacobZ

Thank you for your reply.

So, my lawn is kikuya.

I will just continue my current weed killer yates pro weed buffalo.

thank you.

japbrizuela

Hi @JacobZ @EricL,

I sprayed again the yates herbicide on my lawn 2 days ago. I am frustrated and disappointed with the clover.

I tried to hand weed the cloverleaf but it took me a while. The roots of the clovers have been established enought. It is so deep. I already sprayed 3x every 3x using the herbicde but no effect.

Am I doing it right? I don’t want to hand weed again the cloverleaf as it was so hard. The small cloverleafs are starting to grow and scattered. What should I do next?

Can I start mowing the lawn, then aerate? Then fertilising? What aerating tools should I use? The shoe type or the fork type?

Thank you.

EricL

Hello @japbrizuela

It is good that you have manually removed the heavy growth of weeds in your lawn. Before I offer any advice how is the temperature in your area? Are you still getting cold evenings or are the days starting to get warm all day? The weather in your area will dictate what your next steps should be. If it is still too cold, I would hold off with the fertilization. But if you are having steady warm weather then it would be ok to start fertilizing the lawn.

For the meantime, I suggest aerating the lawn. You can use either the https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-lawn-aerator-sandals_p0241584 or the https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-all-steel-spiked-aerator_p0131548 .

Eric

japbrizuela

Hi @EricL,

Thank you for your reply.

I lived in Bathurst, NSW. The weather here is pretty warm alreasy. A bit cold early morning like 3 degrees but warm durimg the day. Not that too hot weather.

I tried only in a small area to remove the clover weeds. Not the entire lawn with a clover.

What will be my next step?

EricL

Hello @japbrizuela

The best time to apply a fertiliser is when the lawn starts to actively grow, once the lawn has needed a few regular mows. If you haven't had to pull the lawnmower out yet, hold off on the application of the fertilizer. September is generally too early to apply traditional granular fertilizer to your lawn in Bathurst. Because Bathurst mornings are so cold in September (often dipping to 3°C to 4°C), the soil remains chilly, and most common Australian grasses will still be dormant or sluggish.

I suggest manually removing the clover by hand one section at a time. You do not have to do it all in one go. Once you see active growth of the lawn it is a good sign that the lawn is starting to wake up from dormancy. If the lawn has not shown any growth do not mow the lawn.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric