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How can I secure warping kitchen kickboard?

Bill1990

Hi Bunnings workshop,

I have this kitchen kickboard, that has come loose at one end and is warping away. If it is relevant, it is under a drawer, which is under a oven.

I have attached some pictures below. It seems to have been only held by a small screw at the top as pictured.

Any help is appreciated, thank you!

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JacobZ

Hi @Bill1990,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

You can see in the second image that there was a screw going from the black chipboard into the white chipboard behind it which makes up the frame of the cabinetry. You can also see that it is not a particularly long screw and that it would not have been embedded particularly deep into the white chipboard.

The first thing I would do is remove that screw and use one that is slightly longer. The chipboard used in cabinetry is typically 16mm or 18mm, so I would be using a 35mm chipboard screw to absolutely maximise the embedment. If it pokes out the back of the white chipboard by a couple of millimetres, this isn't really an issue.

Start with this and see what you think. If it is still not sitting how you'd like, I'd also consider adding another screw closer to the end of the black chipboard.

Additionally, I'd suggest adding a bit of https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-320g-liquid-nails-construction-adhesive_p1233751 between the pieces to help adhere them together alongside the screws.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Bill1990

Thanks @JacobZ, seems like this is a great time to pull the trigger on the hammer drill/driver I've been eyeing.

Since it's the first time I'm using a power drill, I have some amateur questions:
- Should the new screw go in the same place as the old screw?
- Do I need to drive a pilot hole?
- What types of drill bits do I need for this job (for pilot hole/driving the new screw in)?
- Are there any specific settings on the drill I should use for pilot hole / driving the new screw in?
- The angle seems a little awkward, will free handing it and hoping it's straight fine for this type of job?

Appreciate the help!
Bill

JacobZ

Hi @Bill1990,

A drill and driver are always going to be worth owning, so this is a great opportunity to grab one. I'd also grab a drill and driver bit set such as this https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-40-piece-specialty-metric-drill-and-drive-set_p0354519 as it contains pretty much everything, you'd need for basic drilling and driving applications.

To answer your questions -

Yes, the new screw should go in the same place as the old one. It will limit the number of holes in the visible face, so reusing it is definitely worthwhile.

As there is already a hole, you wouldn't really need to drill a new pilot hole in this spot.

The main thing you'll need is a driver bit that corresponds with the screw you use. The screws I linked to have a phillips head, which there are plenty of in the kit I mentioned above.

In terms of settings, if the driver you are purchasing has speed settings (not all of them do), set it on a low setting and apply a bit of pressure while driving the screw in. A lower speed setting will take longer to drive the screw in, but you'll have a little bit more control over the screw depth. You are aiming for the screw head to sit flush, or a tiny bit below the surface of the chipboard, which is what the current screw is doing.

The angle is indeed a bit awkward, so you may need to use the bit extender that is included in that kit -

It will give you a bit of extra reach with your driver so you'll be able to angle things much better. Free handing it is fine. You're not going to have as much trouble as I imagine you are thinking. The screw will pull itself into the hole that is already there, so it would be tough to go off angle anyway.

If you need to add an additional screw closer to the end, use the 3mm drill bit from that kit to create a pilot hole. You don't really need to play with the settings here, just make sure it is not on the hammer function, which is usually depicted by a little hammer just above the rotating selector above the chuck.

I think the biggest thing here is to take your time and make sure you are comfortable before drilling or driving anything. If you're in an awkward position or it doesn't feel comfortable and you feel something might go wrong, get up, reposition yourself and the drill/driver and start again.

If you're nervous and want to have a practice before hand, maybe grab a bit of scrap timber or chipboard if you feel you need it. If you head to the timber yard at your local store, I am confident they will have a small scrap you can take to practice on.

Also, remember that there is always a way to fix your mistakes, but I am confident you won't make any.

Let me know how you go and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

R4addZ

Hi @Bill1990

Whilst @JacobZ is correct that you would not normally need a pilot drill, the issue is , whether the screw had a pilot hole drilled originally. Thing is if the screw is biting into the front panel, there will always be a gap between the front panel and that behind it if the screw can not spin freely in the front panel!

Some screws come with a reduced diameter than the thread between it and the head of the screw and if you don't want to drill the pilot hole in the front panel, you need to source a screw that has the appropriate thread. Thing is, if you don't, then the front panel would potentially stand out by however much the front panel is seperated from the back panel by any gap that may exist when screwing it together

Bill1990

Hi @R4addZ, thanks very much for the advice,

I'm more than happy to drill a pilot hole, if anything for practice for the future.

Should I drill the pilot hole on top of the old one?

What drill bit would I need for this? as of right now I only have screwdriver bits. I am planning to get the screws that JacobZ recommended earlier in the thread.

Thanks again!

JacobZ

Hi @Bill1990,

What @R4addZ is referring to is this smooth section at the start of the screw shank. Its function is to allow the screw to spin freely through that first piece of chipboard without engaging the threads, while the thread pulls the screw into the second piece.

The chipboard screws I linked to above usually have this, but if not, it's not too difficult to overcome by simply pushing the kickboard inwards while screwing. If the outer kickboard pushes out, just unscrew it, push the kickboard back in and redrive the screw, it should pull them together. Don't overthink it too much, trust me, it is not that difficult to do in practice.

There is already a hole where the old screw is, but you can simply remove the old screw, use a 3mm drill bit to drill through the existing hole into the chipboard at the back, then drive in the new screw. There really is no need to add a new hole when you already have a hole there, but deepening the hole in the chipboard for the longer screw can be helpful.

If you are going to add another screw closer to the end of the kickboard, then you should add a new pilot hole.

A basic 3mm drill bit such as this https://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-tools-3mm-viper-jobber-drill-bit_p0532292 should work just fine as long as you have clearance. If you struggle to get the drill in place because of the lack of room, you can use a long series drill bit like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/kango-3mm-long-series-hss-drill-bit_p0374775 .

Let me know if you have further questions.

Jacob

Bill1990

Thanks @JacobZ for the clarification, I misunderstood R4addZ reply!

I'll attempt the fix and hope to share good news after

Bill1990

I'm glad to return with good news that one screw was all it took (despite ordering the liquid nails, there was no good angle to apply it).

I did run into a little bit of trouble as the drill bit I had was not long enough, so I had to unscrew/screw at an angle (but because of the original screw hole, the screw went in straight.)

Thanks for the help @JacobZ & @R4addZ.

EricL

Hello @Bill1990

Thank you very much for the update. I'm sure @JacobZ and @R4addZ will be happy to hear that you've fixed the kickboard.

Eric

JacobZ

Glad to hear it @Bill1990.

Congratulations on a job well done.

Jacob