Hi all, I'm planning to build a storage shelf under our underused breakfast bar where currently 2 equally underused stools collect dust. An AI version of what this would roughly look like is shown below, as well as my scribbles. Here's some info: Width: 100cm Height: 86cm Depth: 24cm I was planning to build a base frame using 90 x 35 timbers, on top of which 235 x 19mm Dar pine panels would be used as the shelving frame and shelves. I have some initial questions please: * Is the 90x35 frame necessary? I've seen tv units built with that so I've started with it but I don't really know why. * Is dressed pine the right wood or is plywood better? Or mdf? I chose dressed pine as they come in the exact depth I need as I can't exceed 24cm or it'll look mismatched to the rest of the kitchen cabinetry. * How should i build the storage shelf? For joining up the storage unit frame, do you need special things like dowel or pocket hole jigs or will screws at the butt joints of the pine panels and glue do the job? Will I need reinforcing brackets? * I will need to remove a section of the skirting board on the wall to slide this shelf in. How do I do that? * Where do I secure this shelf into the existing cabinetry? * Any other things I should consider? Thanks! Snipwhip

Thanks everyone for all your help. I've managed to complete my first custom shelf build. Basic joining techniques (butt, glue and screws) but happy enough. Here's the completed product. Still deciding what to do with the bottom gap. Could put a kick board but it's wasted space so maybe baskets or a drawer . We'll see. Materials: * British paint ace of spades coated in water based cabothane for the black bits. * Oil based cabo for the pine bits as I want it to get richer with time. * 235 x 19mm dressed pine. * 6mm right angle shelf pins. Some things I'll do differently: * If using a mix of water based paint and poly as well as oil based poly in your design, i would coat those pieces after cutting to size but before glueing and joining. * Measure and cut more carefully! I'm out by a few mm on the side wall which makes it not flush with the side of the cabinet behind it. * Use shelf pins with the flat bit on top rather than cradle from below. That leaves less gap btn the sides of the shelf and the vertical supports. Cheers

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How to build a storage shelf under a breakfast bar?

snipwhip

Hi all,

I'm planning to build a storage shelf under our underused breakfast bar where currently 2 equally underused stools collect dust. An AI version of what this would roughly look like is shown below, as well as my scribbles.

Here's some info:

Width: 100cm

Height: 86cm

Depth: 24cm

I was planning to build a base frame using 90 x 35 timbers, on top of which 235 x 19mm Dar pine panels would be used as the shelving frame and shelves.

I have some initial questions please:

Is the 90x35 frame necessary? I've seen tv units built with that so I've started with it but I don't really know why.
Is dressed pine the right wood or is plywood better? Or mdf? I chose dressed pine as they come in the exact depth I need as I can't exceed 24cm or it'll look mismatched to the rest of the kitchen cabinetry.
How should i build the storage shelf? For joining up the storage unit frame, do you need special things like dowel or pocket hole jigs or will screws at the butt joints of the pine panels and glue do the job? Will I need reinforcing brackets?
I will need to remove a section of the skirting board on the wall to slide this shelf in. How do I do that?
Where do I secure this shelf into the existing cabinetry?
Any other things I should consider?

Thanks!

Snipwhip

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EricL

Hello @snipwhip

Thank you very much for sharing your question about building a storage shelf under your breakfast bar.

The pine panels you'll be using are quite thick; there is no need to reinforce it with 90x35 timber pieces, but you can if you wish to add extra support. The https://www.bunnings.com.au/235-x-19mm-2-4m-dar-pine-premium_p8401474 is perfect for your project as it is very close to the size that you need. The pine panels can be butt joined and screwed and glued together. I recommend using https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-8g-x-50mm-gold-passivated-countersunk-rib-head-chipboard-screws-50-pack_p2408456 and https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-250ml-aquadhere-pva-wood-glue-exterior-adhesive-250ml_p1710228 . My best advice is to drill pilot holes and countersink them to prevent splitting the timber.

I suggest installing the shelves using https://www.bunnings.com.au/taskmaster-6mm-nickel-plated-metal-shelf-support-50-pack_p0290588 or similar. Please note that the shelves will need to be trimmed to make space for the shelf support. To remove the skirting board, you'll need to use an https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-18v-compact-multi-function-tool-kit-pcmfk-200_p0800108 with a timber blade or similar. Simply mark the skirting board and use the saw to plunge into the timber. Please be careful not to cut too deeply and accidentally cut the plasterboard wall.

The shelf cabinet can be secured to the back of the breakfast bar using some https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-20-x-20-x-15-x-1-4mm-white-reinforcing-angle-bracket-12-pack_p3962549 . The bracket can be installed inside the shelf cabinet at the top away from direct view. I suggest using some https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-8g-x-15mm-galvanised-button-head-stitching-timber-screws-35-pack_p2410091 .

Here are some sample images below to give you an idea of how to assemble the cabinet. Please note that the measurements are for reference only. Please adjust them to your needs. I also suggest looking at this guide - How to add shelves to cabinetry.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask.

If you need further assitance, please let us know.

Eric

snipwhip

Thanks @EricL that's very useful info. Appreciate it.

snipwhip

Hi @EricL I've just started putting the frame together and am planning on removing a section of the skirting board. However it looks like the skirting board goes below the floor level rather than on top. Is this normal? What will happen after I cut away the skirting board... will there be a gap in the floor btn the tiles and wall that I'll need to level? Or should I cut horizontally at floor level and just leave part of the skirting under floor level so the shelving leg can sit on it?

JacobZ

Hi @snipwhip,

That tells us that the skirting board was installed before the tiles, which means the tiles you can see may not be the original floor covering, or it could just mean that was the order in which things were done during construction. Either way, it's not really something to worry about.

You can either cut them flush with the tiles using a multitool, or remove it completely then fill the void with something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/lanko-5kg-702-durabed-structural-grout_p0760340 . Once the shelving is installed it will be concealed anyway, it just needs to fill the void, so the shelving upright has something solid to sit on.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Jacob

snipwhip

Thanks @JacobZ. I might cut the skirting flush as suggested. Cheers!

snipwhip

Hi @JacobZ @EricL I've used the multitool to cut out the skirting board and can now see a small gap under the wall where the skirting board was. How do I close this gap? I can't tell for sure what's behind the wall. Although the shelving will fit into that gap, Im concern of any gap might allow drafts or moisture in. Thanks

MitchellMc

Hi @snipwhip,

You can push some foam backing rod into the gap and then seal over it with a suitable gap filler. The backing rod will help fill the deeper section, so you don't need to use a large amount of gap filler.

That should help close off the gap and reduce the chance of drafts coming through before you install the shelving.

Mitchell

snipwhip

Thanks everyone for all your help. I've managed to complete my first custom shelf build. Basic joining techniques (butt, glue and screws) but happy enough. Here's the completed product. Still deciding what to do with the bottom gap. Could put a kick board but it's wasted space so maybe baskets or a drawer . We'll see.

Materials:

British paint ace of spades coated in water based cabothane for the black bits.
Oil based cabo for the pine bits as I want it to get richer with time.
235 x 19mm dressed pine.
6mm right angle shelf pins.

Some things I'll do differently:

If using a mix of water based paint and poly as well as oil based poly in your design, i would coat those pieces after cutting to size but before glueing and joining.
Measure and cut more carefully! I'm out by a few mm on the side wall which makes it not flush with the side of the cabinet behind it.
Use shelf pins with the flat bit on top rather than cradle from below. That leaves less gap btn the sides of the shelf and the vertical supports.

Cheers

MitchellMc

What a fantastic result! You should be very pleased with how your first custom shelf build has turned out.

I really like the contrast between the natural pine shelves and the dark frame. It ties in nicely with the benchtop while still allowing the timber grain to be a feature. You've also made excellent use of what would otherwise have been a fairly awkward space.

I think your idea of making use of the gap at the bottom rather than simply covering it with a kickboard is well worth exploring. A couple of shallow baskets could be an easy option and would retain some flexibility, while a custom drawer could give you a very neat built-in finish.

Thanks as well for coming back and sharing what you learnt along the way. Those observations about finishing the pieces before assembly, taking extra care with measurements and choosing different shelf pins will be really useful for other members tackling a similar project.

Congratulations on completing your first custom build, and many thanks for sharing the finished result with the community.

Mitchell