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What hinges for heavy duty timber gate?

arohaa

I've built a external pedestrian timber gate and I need advice on the best type of hinges to use.  Ideally, I want to have the front face of the gate sitting perfectly flush with the face of the posts. The issue is that my gate frame is only 54 mm thick, while the posts are 88 mm thick. Because of the 34 mm difference I can’t simply mount a standard butt hinge to the back of both the gate and the post - as the face of the gate then sits 34mm back from the face of the post.

I also don’t want hinges mounted on the front of the gate, they should be hidden on the side or rear.

Is there a particular type of hinge that will achieve this look, or is the correct solution to recess the hinges into the back of the post so the pivot point sits in the right position for the faces to be flush?

 I’ve digitally sketched it up with strap hinges to try and understand it all visually but I’m struggling so I could be missing the bleeding obvious here - apologies!
If anyone has had the same issue I’d really appreciate some advice or photos of how you solved it.
Cheers

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R4addZ

hi @arohaa

This may be a silly question but why do you feel the need to recess the hinges in in that way instead of simply turning them 45 degrees and fixing them to the face of the post (you could chisel out a small area to let the hinge sit back into the post if necessary)?

EricL

Hello @arohaa

Thank you for sharing your question about your gate hinge. It's great that you've received excellent advice from @R4addZ. I agree with his suggestion to turn the post mounting part 45 degrees so that the rectangular section of the hinge faces the post so that you won't have to rebate into it. I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of how it can be mounted. With the hinge in this direction the gate will open inwards.

This is based on the https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-150mm-stainless-steel-heavy-duty-tee-hinge_p4150034 . But I suggest checking the measurements in store to make sure everything lands in place.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves and goggles when working on your project.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @DIY4Knuckleheds for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

arohaa

@R4addZ to be honest, I’ve been staring at it for so long that I hadn’t thought of that solution. I knew it would be something obvious! Thank you so much 🙏🏻

@EricL thank you for the diagram, such a simple solution I can’t believe I didn’t see it sooner!

EricL

Hello @arohaa

Please don't forget to post an update once you have the gate installed. I'm sure our members will keen to see it.

Eric

Dave-1

Afternoon @arohaa

I have done the same as you looking at hinges :) Im sure it wont be the last time I do that either.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @arohaa

Impressive rendering! My only suggestion would be if the gate is heavy, then use 4 hinges. From my experiences T-Hinges have a tendency to sag at the fixing points over time, especially if the frame is a softer timber. Alternatively consider heavier duty strap hinges with thicker gauge screws.

Nailbag

R4addZ

Hi @arohaa

I actually make most of my income because I see things differently to others. I specialise in telephone systems and one that I deal with has a way of customising it using a script written in a language called C++. I don't know that language and neither do my customers, so I find ways of doing what they want without using this and even though I am semi retired, I get enough business because of this viewpoint! Always sit back and ask yourself, "is there another way to do this", usually there is!

arohaa

Update: the advice from @R4addZ and @EricL was great, however the problem I have now is that the hinge plate is too wide for the area. Do they make heavy duty hinges with a plate/leaf width of <35mm, I can't see those dimensions on the bunnings website..

@Nailbag thank you - I am confident with a computer and software, not so much DIY atm…the gate may not be impressive but at least the rendering is!

R4addZ

@arohaa

alternative thinking again, swivel the hinge 180 degrees!

Edited to add that you will have to reverse the hinge on the gate!

Edited to add

you may have to re do the countersinking of the screws.

EricL

Hello @arohaa

You are very close! I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of how the hinge should turn around. Your Sketchup skills are outstanding!

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

R4addZ

@arohaa

You may need to notch into the gate to accommodate the body of the hinge in this instance!

Nailbag

Hi @arohaa

If you try and fit the hinge that way, the countersink for the screw holes will be on the wrong side. This results in the screws not driving flush. I would typically use 125mm x 75mm posts on the hinge side as they not only provide greater strength but also have more hinge options.

Would you consider recessing the gate in so the frame is flush to the back of the posts? Then the hinges would mount on the rear of the posts and would eliminate the need to have that riser block for the catch side.

Nailbag

JacobZ

Hi @arohaa,

I'm thinking the same as @Nailbag here. I think a larger post would be the way to go.

While options for larger H4 treated posts are limited in store, they are usually available for Special Order. I'd recommend you reach out to your local store's Trade Desk team as they are in regular contact with our timber suppliers and will have the best knowledge of what is available in your area.

They will be able to reach out to suppliers, get you a price, and arrange delivery to your local store.

Let me know what you think and how you go. We can certainly assist further if required.

Jacob

arohaa

@R4addZ - If I redid the countersinking of the screws would that weaken the hinge plate? If all I need to do is purchase a metal countersink bit then that could solve some problems!

@JacobZ - I have already installed the 88mm posts so I was hoping to avoid purchasing bigger ones…

@Nailbag - unfortunately I think I ’m going to have to take your advice and recess the gate in so the frame is flush to the back of the posts. I wanted to avoid that because in my opinion it looks neater to have it flush with the front. It would also solve the issue of the riser block for the catch side.

R4addZ

@arohaa

I would do the recountersinking on the part that attaches to the post as you would lose less near the edge and you can also add an extra screw hole in the middle if you are concerned.

Nailbag

Hi @arohaa

I can appreciate that look you're after. Hers a few photos of my last house front fence and concealed flush gate with a custom pull lever latch system.

Nailbag

R4addZ

@Nailbag

Who is the NZ counterpart you are referring to? You will increase the size of the hole but how can you compromise the strength of a hole?

R4addZ

@arohaa

If you are at all concerned about re countersinking the holes, find your local mens shed and ask one of their metal work hobbyists to weld up the existing holes and then redo them as required. Use a zinc spray on them to prevent rusting.

Nailbag

Apologies @R4addZ please ignore my last post. I had both the wrong user and misunderstood your explanation. Yes of course you can countersink new holes. I thought you meant countersinking the back of existing countersunk ones.