🖼️
The project:
This coffee table is made entirely from recycled pallet timber, cut into end grain blocks to create a unique look. The blocks were cut to size, flattened and framed with reclaimed red gum before the gaps and imperfections were filled with resin. The top was then flattened again, sanded smooth and finished with pure tung oil. It sits on charred timber legs, giving it a modern rustic feel. I wanted to turn timber that would otherwise have been thrown away into something practical, unique and built to last.
- Materials:
Pallet Timber - mostly pine, but had some hardwood as well for the top and borders. Important note that it was all Heat Treated timber.
Wood Glue.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-532ml-ultimate-wood-glue_p0492213
Resin.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/boyle-crafty-resin-250ml-125ml-125ml-kit_p0322567
Screw in Nuts, Washers and Bolts:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/taskmaster-m6-x-20mm-screw-in-insert-nut-curved-surfaces-8-pack_p0035525
https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-m6-x-45mm-black-oxide-socket-head-cap-screw-4-pack_p0339630
https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-1-4-m6-zinc-plated-machine-washer-46-pack_p2420281
Tung Oil.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gilly-s-250ml-100-pure-tung-oil_p0329965
Wood Filler.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/timbermate-250g-jarrah-wood-filler_p1560651
- Tools:
Saws: Rockwell Mitre Saw and GMC Table Saw.
Sanders: Ryobi Belt and Disc Sander and Ryobi Detail Sander.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-370w-belt-and-disc-sander_p6210416
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-palm-sander-rps18-tool-only_p0371771
Clamps: Irwin 300mm Clamps.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-300mm-quick-grip-mini-clamp-2-pack_p0215574
Planer: Ryobi Planer Thicknesser to plane down surfaces.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-1500w-planer-thicknesser_p6210479
Blowtorch: Tradeflame Blow Torch.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-handyman-blow-torch-kit-with-gas_p0729079
Drill: Ryobi Drill.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-hammer-drill-all-rounder-kit-r18pd24_p0539759
- Step 1:
Select your timber and cut it into suitable-sized pieces. Because I used end grain for this project and knew it would go through the planer multiple times, I started with pieces around 42–45 mm thick. Once I had enough cut, I laid them out like a giant jigsaw puzzle, mixing the timber up so similar pieces weren't sitting next to each other. I glued the top together in three separate sections, gradually adding pieces to each before joining them into one large panel that was larger than the final dimensions of the table.
Tip: Even though I took the time to orient the timber as best I could, the top still started to cup slightly as the glue dried and the timber contracted. To help flatten it again, I lightly dampened the top surface, turned it upside down and placed a few weight plates on it. I left it like this until it had dried and returned to a nice flat shape.
- Step 2:
Once everything had fully dried, I ran the end grain top and the red gum border pieces through the planer for their first pass.
- Step 3:
Now it was time to trim the end grain panel to its final size. I marked out the two long sides and cut them on the table saw. To do this safely, I made a simple sled from a thin piece of scrap plywood. The tabletop was attached to the sled as squarely as possible using double-sided tape. The sled then ran along the table saw fence, giving me a safe, straight and accurate cut. I repeated the process on the opposite side before cutting the two short sides on the mitre saw, which was easy now I had nice straight edges.
- Step 4:
Next, I cut the red gum border pieces to size, mitred each corner to 45 degrees and glued them around the outside of the panel. Once the glue had cured, the entire top was ready for the next stage. I used a small amount of wood filler to fill the screw holes on the top. My mitres weren't perfect, so I also used a little filler to tidy up the corners before sanding as well.
I used the same trick with the weight plates after gluing the border on. It probably wasn't necessary because it was much smaller, but I placed a few weight plates on top anyway for peace of mind while the glue cured.
- Step 5:
Now it was time to fill the gaps with resin. I used a 250 ml kit, which was more than enough for this project. Before starting, I taped up the underside of the tabletop to stop any resin dripping onto my workbench and placed it on baking paper. Tip: I use baking paper under all my glue-ups as nothing sticks to it and it's easy to peel away afterwards.
My original plan was to fill only the larger gaps and voids, but I quickly realised the dry timber soaked up far more resin than I expected. In total, I mixed three small 30 ml batches to fill the top. After leaving it to cure for 24 hours, I ran it through the planer again.
I wasn't completely happy with the result, as the filled areas stood out against the timber. To get a more consistent finish, I applied another coat of resin over the entire surface, making sure any new voids were filled at the same time. After a final pass through the planer and a good sanding, the top had a much more uniform finish.
Please ignore the alcohol bottles in the photos... at this point my bar had become a temporary workbench!
- Step 6:
With all the hard work done, it was finally time to apply the finish. I chose pure tung oil to bring out the natural colours and grain of the timber while providing a durable protective finish. I applied three generous coats, allowing several hours between each coat so the oil had time to soak into the timber before applying the next.
- Step 7:
With the tabletop complete, it was time to make the legs. I selected some more recycled timber from my stock and built a pair of simple rectangular frame legs. Like the border, each corner was mitred to 45 degrees before being glued together. I made the overall width of the legs the same as the end grain section of the tabletop, which made it much easier to mark out the mounting holes later. Once everything was square, I added a screw to the top and bottom of each corner to lock the joints together.
- Step 8:
Now it was time to drill the mounting holes in the tabletop and legs. Unfortunately, I got a little too excited at this stage and forgot to take any photos!
As I mentioned in the previous step, I made the legs the same width as the end grain section, which made it easy to work out the hole locations. I measured in from each edge, centred and marked the holes, then drilled them just over 20 mm deep in the tabletop using my drill press for the threaded inserts.
The legs were too small to fit on my drill press, so I drilled those holes freehand, taking my time to keep them as straight as possible. Once all the holes were drilled, I installed the threaded inserts. I fitted the first one by hand with an Allen key, but quickly found that using a drill gave a straighter and much easier installation. Finally, I fitted the bolts and washers and checked that everything lined up and tightened correctly.
- Step 9:
Next, it was time to set them on fire! 😊
I ran a blowtorch over each face, taking my time to get even coverage while keeping it moving so the timber didn't burn too deeply. Once I was happy with the finish, I sanded each face back to remove the loose char and expose some of the natural timber, creating a nice contrast.
After sanding, I wiped each leg down with isopropyl alcohol (not the good stuff from the bar!) to remove any dust before applying the finish. I then gave each leg a generous first coat of pure tung oil and left it to soak in for about an hour before wiping away any excess.
- Step 10:
I then reattached the legs to the tabletop and gave them another generous coat of pure tung oil. With the table fully assembled, the project was finally complete. I gave the entire table one final coat of oil, left it to cure for a couple of days, then moved it into the lounge room for my wife and I to enjoy.
Now onto the next project... matching coasters made from the leftover red gum! 😊
Hope you enjoyed this :)
