🖼️
The project:
I built a rolling workstation that I can actively work on, with good storage, a furniture‑grade finish, and a style that matches my office. The acrylic posters mounted on custom standoffs make it a real talking point. This is a DIY build. I’m not a trained cabinet maker and everything was made using common Ryobi One+ tools and materials from Bunnings. The 100mm wheels were chosen to roll smoothly over thick carpet, and the benchtop height is perfect for working comfortably while sitting or standing.
- Materials:
Kaboodle Components
- Kaboodle 450mm Base Cabinet (Ă—2) www.bunnings.com.au/kaboodle-450mm-white-base-cabinet_p2662608
- Kaboodle 450mm Raw Board Modern Door Faces (Ă—2) www.bunnings.com.au/kaboodle-450mm-raw-board-modern-cabinet-door_p2668875
- Kaboodle 450mm 4‑Drawer Base Cabinet www.bunnings.com.au/kaboodle-450mm-4-drawer-base-cabinet_p2662254
- Kaboodle 450mm Raw Board Modern 4 drawer panels www.bunnings.com.au/kaboodle-450mm-raw-board-modern-4-drawer-panels-modern_p2668889
Panels & Timber
- Specrite Acacia Panel Golden Teak 2200 Ă— 600 Ă— 26mm (Ă—2) www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-2200-x-600-x-26mm-golden-teak-acacia-multi-use-panel_p0445847
- Specrite Pine Multi‑Use Timber Panel 1800 × 600 × 18mm www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1800-x-600-x-18mm-timber-multi-use-pine-panel_p0419624
- 70 Ă— 35mm Pine Framing Timber (used to mount castor wheels. Note: I used leftovers) www.bunnings.com.au/70-x-35mm-framing-mgp10-untreated-pine-2-4m_p8030010
- Customwood Raw MDF Sheet 3mm Ă— 1200 Ă— 900 www.bunnings.com.au/customwood-2400-x-1200-x-3mm-raw-standard-mdf-e0_p0590021
Mobility Hardware
- 6 × 100mm Heavy‑Duty Castor Wheels www.bunnings.com.au/easyroll-100mm-100kg-grey-rubber-heavy-duty-swivel-castor_p0177933
Other materials
- Various Wood Screws, Wood Glue
- Metal Mate 20 Ă— 20 Ă— 1.5mm Aluminium Equal Angle (For securing back of cupboard to benchtop) www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-20-x-20-x-1-5mm-1m-aluminium-equal-angle-silver-1m_p1067865
Signage & Standoff Hardware
- M6 × 50mm Round‑Head Pinnacle Bolts + Nuts (for standoffs) www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-m6-x-50mm-black-ruspert-round-head-bolts-and-nuts-6-pack_p0257710
- M6 Washers www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-m6-black-flat-washer-12-pack_p0257730
- Acrylic Signage Panels (Specialty item — not from Bunnings)
- Caps for Standoffs (Specialty item — not from Bunnings)
Finishing Materials
- Zinsser 1‑2‑3 Primer, Undercoat Sealer www.bunnings.com.au/zinsser-1l-white-bulls-eye-primer-undercoat-sealer-and-stain-blocker_p1579690
- Aquaenamel Flat Black Paint www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-1l-enamel-paint-aquanamel-semi-gloss-deep_p1400052
- Cabots Interior Stain – Cedar www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-250ml-cedar-water-based-interior-stain-250ml_p1520288
- Scandinavian Oil www.bunnings.com.au/feast-watson-250ml-scandinavian-oil_p1564833
- Metal Pro Etch Primer - Black (For aluminium drawer handles www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-325g-metalpro-black-etch-primer_p0336518
- Squirts Paint and Prime - Flat Black (For Drawer Handles)
Drawer & Door Hardware (Specialty Items)
- Drawer Handles (Specialty item — not from Bunnings)
- Push‑to‑Open Latches (Specialty item — not from Bunnings)
- Soft Close Drawer Sliders (Specialty item — not from Bunnings)
- Tools:
Ryobi One+ Power Tools
Hand Tools & Measuring Tools
- Straight Edge (Cutting Guide)
- Clamps (Various Sizes)
- Carpenter’s Square / Combination Square
- Tape Measure
- Pencil / Marking Tools
Cutting & Shaping Tools
- Handsaw / Fine‑cut saw (for small adjustments)
- Utility Knife (for MDF scoring, cleanup)
- Sanding Blocks (for hand‑finishing edges)
Assembly Tools
- Screwdrivers
- Socket / Spanner Set (for M6 bolts & nuts)
- Drill Bits (wood, pilot, countersink)
- Driver Bits (Phillips, square drive, etc.)
Painting & Finishing Tools
- Paint Brushes
- Mini Rollers
- Drop Sheets
- Rags / Tack Cloths
- Sandpaper (80, 120, 240 grit)
- Gloves
- Step 1:
Step 1 – Cupboard Building Time
I unpacked each Kaboodle cupboard and assembled them one at a time. Trust me — if you open all the boxes at once, you’re asking for trouble. Building them individually keeps the workspace tidy and makes it easier to follow the instructions properly. Kaboodle kits always leave you with a few extra screws, so I kept those aside because they ended up being useful later in the build. Getting each carcass square and solid at this stage is important, because it determines how clean the final workstation will look once everything is joined together.
- Step 2:
Step 2 – Build the Rolling Base and Fit the Kickboard
With the cupboards assembled, I rolled all three units upside down so I could work on the underside. I aligned them carefully and screwed the carcasses together to form one solid workstation body.
Next, I built the timber dolly frame using 70 × 35mm pine. This frame supports the wheels, but it’s important to leave a gap for the kickboard — this is what creates the clean “floating” look once the cupboard is upright. I cut the plywood kickboard to the exact height needed so the wheels stay hidden while still allowing full movement.
Because I’m using large 100mm castor wheels (my carpet is very thick), I raised each wheel slightly with blocks to ensure they spun freely around the timber frame. Once everything was aligned and secure, the base rolled smoothly and the cupboard already had the floating appearance I was aiming for. I may later add LED lighting underneath to enhance that effect even more.
- Step 3:
Step 3 – Fit the Rear Panel and Prep All MDF & Aluminium for Painting
With the cabinet assembly now solid and square, I cut the 3mm MDF sheet to size and glued it onto the rear of the cupboards. This panel is visible in the final build, so getting a clean fit here matters.
Next, I rebated the raw MDF Kaboodle drawer faces using the trim router so the finger‑pull handles sit neatly inside the drawer fronts. Once the routing was done, I sanded all the raw MDF components to remove factory sheen and prep them for paint.
The aluminium finger‑pull handles were also prepped at this stage. I lightly sanded them, then sprayed them with MetalPro Etch Primer to ensure proper adhesion. Once dry, I finished them with White Knight Squirts Paint & Prime Flat Black so they matched the rest of the cupboard faces.
All MDF surfaces were primed with Zinsser 1‑2‑3 Primer / Undercoat Sealer, applied using a paint roller to avoid brush strokes. After the first coat dried, I sanded lightly and applied a second coat for an even base. Once fully cured, I sanded again and finished with three coats of Aquaenamel Flat Black, letting each coat dry properly before moving to the next. The extra prep time here makes a huge difference to the final finish.
- Step 4:
Step 4 – Install the Drawer Sliders, Hinges, Doors and Drawer Faces
With all the painting and prep work done, I installed the soft‑close drawer sliders. Each pair was fixed in place, then I inserted the drawers to check alignment and make sure they ran smoothly. Adjusting them now saves a lot of frustration later.
Next, I fitted the Blum 170‑degree full‑overlay hinges to the cupboard doors. Once the hinges were mounted, I attached the doors and adjusted them so the gaps were even across the front. Finally, I installed the drawer faces, lining them up carefully so the spacing matched the doors and everything sat square. This step really brings the front of the workstation together and shows off the clean black finish.
- Step 5:
Step 5 – Add the Pine End Panels to Dress the Cupboard
With the cupboard doors installed and aligned, I cut the Specrite Pine Multi‑Use Timber Panel to size to create the end panels. The 600mm width is the perfect size for this project, making the panels easy to work with and giving the sides a clean, custom‑built look. These panels dress up the cupboard and help it blend in with the rest of my office décor, adding warmth and contrast against the black cupboard faces.
Once cut, I fixed the panels neatly to each end of the cupboard, making sure the edges lined up perfectly with the doors and kickboard. This step really transforms the unit from a set of cabinets into a finished piece of furniture.
- Step 6:
Step 6 – Build, Extend, Finish and Install the Acacia Benchtop
The Specrite Acacia Panel Golden Teak was cut to size for the benchtop. At 600mm wide it’s a great panel, but it doesn’t quite give enough overhang for a full 360 degree workstation. So I bit the bullet and purchased a second sheet. I cut a 40mm strip from the end of the second panel and glued it onto the side of the first panel to extend the width.
Once the glue cured, I sanded the entire benchtop smooth so the join became seamless. The top was then stained with Cabots Interior Stain – Cedar to match the warm tones in the room, and finished with Scandinavian Oil for durability and a natural satin sheen.
With the benchtop fully finished, I secured it to the cupboard. To make sure it was fixed firmly, I added Metal Mate 20 Ă— 20 Ă— 1.5mm Aluminium Equal Angle along the inside rear of the cupboard and screwed the benchtop down through the angle. This locks the top in place without visible fixings.
The extra Specrite panel won’t go to waste — it’ll be used in future projects. Bunnings does sell a wider and thicker Specrite board, but I’ve used the 26mm thickness throughout the room, so keeping it uniform was important for the overall look.
- Step 7:
Step 7 – Build and Install the Hidden Acrylic Poster Displays
This is the wow factor of the whole build — the hidden poster display. I made six acrylic sheets in total: three clear and three white, each drilled with clean 7mm holes. These sheets form a sandwich that holds the posters perfectly flat and protected.
To mount them, I used simple stand‑offs made from M6 × 50mm Round Head Pinnacle Bolts. Each bolt head is finished with a polished metal cap for a clean, professional look. The bolt passes through the clear acrylic sheet first, then through the white backing sheet, and the two are tightened together with a nut. This clamps the poster securely between the acrylic layers.
The remaining bolt length is then passed through the back of the cupboard and fixed in place with a washer and nut. By sheer luck — or brilliant planning — the bolts lined up and passed through the back panel without any trouble. Once tightened, the posters sit perfectly spaced off the cupboard face, creating a clean, floating display that becomes a real talking point.
- Step 8:
Step 8 – Future LED Backlighting (Work in Progress)
I experimented with installing LED backlighting behind the acrylic poster displays to give them a cinema‑style glow. The idea was to create a soft halo of light around each poster to enhance the floating effect. Unfortunately, the result didn’t look right — the light didn’t diffuse evenly through the acrylic layers, and the effect wasn’t strong enough to justify keeping it.
So for now, the LED backlighting has been removed and it’s back to the drawing board. I’ll revisit the lighting concept in a future upgrade once I find a better way to achieve the look I’m after.
- Step 9:
Overall, I’m super happy with the look. You wouldn’t know that the backbone of this workstation is three Kaboodle cupboards — the finished design hides that completely. The pine accents, the extended benchtop, and the hidden poster displays tie in perfectly with the rest of the office décor, and the whole setup is practical and easy to work on. It’s solid, clean, and looks like a custom piece of furniture rather than a cabinet hack. I’m really pleased with how it all came together. As a bonus, the posters are easily interchangeable. But why would you want to?
