🖼️
The project:
We wanted a 3 metre tv unit to help fill out the space in our theatre room - we converted the original dining room; and for the unit to help mesh in with the wainscotting we are doing throughout the whole house it needed to be a feature, but quickly realised that would be well out of our budget. We transformed standard flat-pack cabinets into a custom fluted TV entertainment unit using stained half-round timber dowels. By combining affordable cabinetry with simple woodworking techniques, we created the look of a high-end bespoke piece without the custom price tag.
- Materials:
- Tools:
- Mitre saw or fine-tooth hand saw
- Measuring tape and pencil
- Drill and appropriate drill bits
- Sandpaper
- Paintbrushes or staining cloths
- Clamps
- Safety glasses and dust mask
- Step 1:
1. Measure the cabinet doors and calculate the number of dowels required.
Measure the height of each cabinet door to determine the required length of the half-round dowels. Measure each door individually rather than assuming they are all exactly the same size. Allow for any clearance required around the top and bottom of the door so the dowels do not interfere with the cabinet frame when the doors open.
Measure the width of each door and divide it by the width of the half-round dowels, allowing for a small and consistent gap between each piece.
Lay several dowels across the door before cutting or gluing them. This makes it easier to check the spacing and determine whether the final dowel will need to be trimmed, or if you are going to leave small spacing gaps.
- Step 2:
2. Cut the dowels to length and sand
Mark the required length on each half-round dowel and cut the pieces to size.
I used a mitre saw because it was the tool I had available, although a fine-tooth hand saw could also be used.
- Step 3:
3. Cut the dowels to length
Mark the required length on each half-round dowel and cut the pieces to size.
I used a mitre saw because it was the tool I had available, although a fine-tooth hand saw could also be used.
Lightly sand the cut ends and faces of the dowels to remove any splinters or rough edges.
Wipe away all sawdust before staining so it does not become trapped in the finish.
- Step 4:
4. Stain the individual dowels and paint the doors
Apply the chosen interior timber stain to each dowel, following the stain manufacturer’s directions.
I found it much easier to stain the individual pieces before attaching them to the doors. Once assembled, the narrow grooves between the dowels would have been difficult to reach and it would have been harder to achieve an even finish. Staining after cutting also prevented freshly cut ends, chips or splinters from exposing unstained timber.
Allow the stain to dry fully. Apply additional coats until the desired depth of colour is achieved. I used 2 heavy coats of Brown Japan.
Paint the front and exposed edges of each cabinet door in a colour similar to the finished timber stain. Small gaps remain visible between the dowels, so painting the door in a coordinating colour helps disguise the backing panel and creates a more seamless result.
Allow the paint to dry completely before attaching the dowels.
- Step 5:
5. Mark the handle positions and attach
Decide where the cabinet handles will sit and carefully measure their position on each door. I decided to place the handle on the 3rd dowel across on each door.
Use the first door as a template so the handles remain aligned across the entire unit. Mark and drill the handle holes before attaching the dowels, as the flat door surface makes measuring and drilling easier.
Attach the handles prior to attaching the dowel to the door to ensure screws are hidden.
- Step 6:
6. Plan the dowel layout and attach the outer dowels
Place the cut dowels loosely across each door to test the arrangement before applying glue.
I began with the two outermost pieces and worked inward. This allowed me to maintain straight edges and distribute the small gaps evenly across the door.
Using a spacer made from scrap timber, cardboard or tile spacers to help keep the gaps consistent could be done.
Apply a thin, even amount of wood glue to the flat back of the first dowel. Avoid using too much glue, as excess can squeeze into the grooves and become difficult to remove.
Position the dowel along one outer edge of the door and check that it is straight. Repeat on the opposite edge.
Clamp the pieces in place while the glue sets.
- Step 7:
7. Attach the remaining dowels
Continue working inward, attaching one dowel at a time, from each side.
Check the spacing and alignment regularly rather than relying only on the previous dowel. Remove any glue squeeze-out immediately with a damp cloth, taking care not to damage the stain.
Once all the dowels are positioned, clamp them securely and allow the glue to cure.
- Step 8:
12. Assemble the cabinet units
Assemble the flat-pack cabinet units according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Install the customised doors and adjust the hinges until the gaps between the doors are even and the fluted pattern appears level across the full length of the unit.
- Step 9:
13. Join and position the cabinets
Position the individual cabinets beside one another and check that they are level.
Join the units together where appropriate so they read visually as one long cabinet rather than several separate pieces.
Secure the finished cabinet to the wall using fixings suitable for the wall type.
- Step 10:
10. Additional Details
Originally we had planned for a floating cabinet look, however we changed our minds once we had finished the project and added timber legs.
