🖼️
The project:
I built a set of custom plywood storage units designed to be completely constructed from plywood, keeping a natural, industrial, earthy aesthetic. The units include open shelving, angled wardrobe sections, and reinforced shelves, all finished to highlight the raw plywood grain. I’m not a cabinet maker and I don’t have specialised tools — this is a build anyone slightly handy can do.
The cupboards were intentionally designed as modular units so they could be carried down the hallway and through the doorway. Building them any bigger and they simply wouldn’t have fit.
It would have been easier to get a pre-made cupboard system, but this is a room that is used for storage and ironing. We were happy to build a raw -looking cupboard system, no door, just shelves and a bit of hanging space.
- Materials:
(10X) 12mm plywood sheets (2400 × 1200) Mix of Ecoply (when a good batch came in) and non-structural plywood. Used for all carcasses, shelves, sides, dividers, and kickboards (www.bunnings.com.au/customply-2400-x-1200-x-12mm-non-structural-plywood_p0340315)
(4X) 7mm plywood backing (www.bunnings.com.au/structaply-2400-x-1200mm-7mm-plywood-structural-cd-grade_p0340161)
Painted with Cabothane Clear Matt to seal and protect while keeping the natural grain
Pine dressed premium grade 64 × 19mm Used on the front edges of shelves to stiffen long spans and straighten any bowing
Nails, PVA wood glue
- Tools:
Ryobi One+ Drill Driver (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-drill-driver-kit_p0299960)
Ryobi One+ Circular Saw (www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-hp-165mm-brushless-circular-saw-rcs18c-tool-only_p0405164)
Ryobi One+ Orbital Sander (www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-125mm-random-orbital-sander-tool-only_p0371770)
Ryobi One+ Multi-Tool (www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-multi-tool-skin-only_p1024308)
Old trusty Tritan work bench and even older Makita circular saw
Clamps
Straight edge cutting guide
Tape measure & carpenter’s square
Sanding blocks (120, 240 grit)
Paint brushes / mini rollers
- Step 1:
Step 1 – Cutting All Plywood Panels
I didn’t take progress photos - this was originally just a personal build, but I’m sharing to show what anyone can build if you put your mind to it.
I broke down the 12mm plywood sheets into all the required panels: sides, shelves, dividers, and kickboards.
The cuts came out clean and square using a straight edge and circular saw.
Visible edges were sanded to highlight the grain.
Each cupboard was sized deliberately so it could be carried down the hallway and through the doorway without issue.
- Step 2:
Step 2 – Glue‑and‑Nail Assembly of the Carcasses
The carcasses were assembled using glue as the main structural bond, with nails hammered by hand to hold everything in place while the glue cured.
No screws were used in the construction of the individual cupboards.
Clamps kept the units square.
All nail holes were filled with timber putty for a clean finish.
Kickboards were also made from 12mm plywood to maintain all‑ply aesthetic.
The 7mm plywood backing was cut to size, glued and nailed into place. The backing added rigidity and provided extra surface area for shelf support.
- Step 3:
Step 3 – Shelf Construction and Early Reinforcement Attempts
Shelves were built from 12mm plywood, with plywood used on the sides and back to give more gluing and nailing surface. To stiffen the front edge, I first tried doubling the plywood on the front. It helped structurally, but:
- It didn’t fully straighten the bow
- It looked bulky
- It slowed the build down
So I abandoned the doubled‑ply approach.
Step 3.2 - Redo - Final Shelf Reinforcement Using Dressed Pine
I switched to 64 × 19mm dressed pine for the front edge of each shelf. I trimmed the pine on the tablesaw to the exact height needed. The pine:
- Straightened the shelves perfectly
- Added stiffness without bulk
- Looked cleaner and more intentional
- Preserved the plywood‑dominant aesthetic while solving the structural issue
The pine was glued and nailed into place, then puttied and sanded.
- Step 4:
Step 4 – Installing Shelves and Angled Wardrobe Sections
With the shelves reinforced, I installed them into the carcasses.
Two wardrobe units were close to the door, so I intentionally added a front angle to improve the flow in and out of the room. This small design tweak made the space feel more open and avoided a boxed‑in entry.
Once all cupboards were carried into the room, I used screws to fix the units together. This locked everything into a single stable structure while still allowing each cupboard to be built and transported individually.
- Step 5:
Results
The shelves were spaced deliberately so they could take standard storage containers — the type commonly sold at Bunnings — making the units versatile for long‑term organisation.
But once the cupboards were in use, we found that for clothing, sheets, pillows, blankets, and soft items, the best solution wasn’t rigid tubs at all.
The most effective storage turned out to be large fabric bags that match the shelf dimensions.
They slide in and out easily, hold a surprising amount, and keep everything tidy without wasting space.
It’s genuinely surprising how much these shelves hold.
Between the reinforced fronts, the deep shelf bays, and the open plywood design, the units swallow clothing, bedding, gear, and storage bags far more efficiently than expected. The angled wardrobe fronts also make the room feel more open and improve the flow in and out of the doorway.
