Garden shed refresh using timber cladding

DonR

🖼️

The project:

After my Mum had a landscape gardener makeover her unit’s backyard, the sad looking garden shed (with no doors) was letting the side down.

We initially looked at replacing the metal doors and giving it a freshen up with a coat of paint which would have been an improvement but not a massive one.

Mum’s wish of wanting to make the shed more functional and “not so ugly” then gave way to the idea of making it pretty and a feature in its own right.

I think I achieved that and Mum loves it.

- Materials:

20 x 2.4m lengths of treated pine framing timber (70 x 35mm)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/70-x-35mm-outdoor-framing-h3-treated-pine-2-4m_p8032103

9 x 4.8m lengths of tongue and groove pine flooring to be used to clad the frame

https://www.bunnings.com.au/city-timber-140-x-19mm-4-8m-radiata-pine-312-flooring_p0032975

15 x 2.4m lengths of finishing timber (dressed all round) 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/64-x-19mm-2-4m-dar-pine-premium_p8401461

Framing Nails

https://www.bunnings.com.au/paslode-75-x-3-06mm-bright-d-head-framing-nail-3000-pack-3000-pack_p2361117

Metal screws for securing frame to existing shed

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bremick-metal-bugle-screw-14g-x-100-t40-b8-pk100_p0920556

Brad nails for attaching pine cladding and trim to frame

https://www.bunnings.com.au/powerfit-50mm-c1-series-electro-galvanised-brad-nails-2000-pack_p0728507

3 x packs of hinges for doors

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-100mm-black-fixed-pin-butt-hinge-2-pack_p0084114

3 x packs of hinges for doors (exterior decoration)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-200mm-matte-black-tee-gate-hinge-2-pack_p0131442

2 x door handles

https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-254mm-matte-black-gate-pull-handle_p0131453

1 x latch for doors

https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-garden-gate-latch-matte-black_p0431794

1 x solar barn light similar to

https://www.bunnings.com.au/solar-wall-light-aluminium-astin-sinclair_p0698470

Black screws for attaching hinges / handles / latch / light

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-5-x-50mm-black-countersunk-timber-screws-75-pack_p0201376

1 x tin of sealer / primer

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-4l-1step-prep-primer-sealer-undercoat_p1370234

1 x tin of main paint colour (monument)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wattyl-4l-monument-low-sheen-pre-tinted-solagard-exterior-paint_p0630316

1 x tin of trim paint colour (white)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wattyl-4l-dover-white-low-sheen-pre-tinted-solagard-exterior-paint_p0630386

2 x plastic window boxes (painted white)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/northcote-pottery-400mm-graphite-villa-plastic-window-box-planter-graphite_p2910219

Assorted artificial flowers / plants for the window boxes

https://www.bunnings.com.au/35cm-white-peony-artificial-flower-posy_p0198051

https://www.bunnings.com.au/30cm-pink-peony-artificial-flower_p0197989

https://www.bunnings.com.au/un-real-17cm-green-topiary-artificial-plant_p0531774

https://www.bunnings.com.au/un-real-70cm-green-pothos-outdoor-plug-in-stem-artificial-plant_p0531768

- Tools:

Circular Saw

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-165mm-circular-saw-r18cs-0-skin-only_p6210595

Framing Nail Gun

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-airwave-clipped-head-air-framing-nailer_p6210568

Compressor for Nail Gun

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dewalt-18v-10l-brushless-cordless-compressor-dcc1018n-xj-skin-only_p0510529

Cordless Drill & Impact Driver

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dewalt-2-piece-18v-brushless-combo-kit_p6260457

Drill Bits

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-19-piece-metric-high-speed-steel-drill-bit-set_p0056805

Brad Nail Gun

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-18ga-c1-brad-nailer-tool-only_p0385367

Ryobi Angle Grinder

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-800w-125mm-angle-grinder_p0096776

Angle Grinder Cutting Discs

https://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boar-125mm-5-x-1-0-x-22-23mm-inox-cutting-disc-12-pack_p0400441

Clamps

https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-300mm-quick-grip-mini-clamp-2-pack_p0215574

Tape measure

https://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-8m-26ft-imperial-tape-measure_p5660378

Level

https://www.bunnings.com.au/empire-600mm-true-blue-trade-box-level_p0333458

Ladder

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bailey-ladder-double-sided-contractor-0-9m-mk2-150kg_p0557557

- Step 1:

DESIGN RESEARCH

• We had to decide what we wanted the shed to look like after its makeover as well as how I was going to make it happen. 
  
• The shed itself was in good structural condition and fixed to a concrete slab. Aside from being ugly and not having any doors it was in relatively good shape with no leaks. 

• Not wanting to rebuild the whole shed I had to work out where to start (and stop) giving Mum the best possible outcome without going too crazy. 
  
• The shed was jammed into the end of the yard and neither of the side panels were accessible or visible so it made sense to build a new front facade and fix it to the existing structure. 
  
• Mum did a lot of online research at this stage to confirm what she wanted the shed to look like and decided on a miniature barn type feel.

- Step 2:

BUILD PLANNING

• Next I had to measure the shed as accurately as possible and work out how I was going to build the new exterior. 

• Creating a new front facade was the easiest way to get a brand new “look” and would allow me to hide a lot of the existing issues such as uneven ground, walls not being level or square, twists in the metal frame as well as adding some strength so I could make new matching timber doors. 
  
• Probably the most crucial and time-consuming part of the project was measuring up the shed., confirming how I was going to frame it and making a list of all the timber and fasteners I was going to need. 

- Step 3:

BUILDING THE FRAMEWORK

• Once I had all the supplies I needed I started by making the framework. 
  
• With the help of clamps I used the 70mm x 35mm treated pine to make a basic rectangle for each side of the doorway. 

• The full length horizontal top piece of timber tied both sides together and then I added in the strength with the three shorter horizontal pieces on both sides of the door gap. 

• I added a second piece of timber to the three sides of the doorway so that it would be strong enough to hold both doors once they were made. 
  
• Finally I replicated the slope of the existing roof by cutting vertical pieces of timber to size and then laying the long horizontal pieces on top to complete the face of the shed. 

• All of the frame was built with 75mm framing nails. 
  
• The timber frame itself was screwed to the metal walls of the shed with 14g x 100mm bugle metal screws. 

** I cheated a bit with the two vertical end pieces and built them a bit further out than the side panels of the shed. I did this because the ground had an obvious slope (the shed was built on a concrete slab that I couldn’t change) and the walls of the shed were not square or level.  By creating a new straight / vertical edge it hides how uneven the shed and ground is. 

- Step 4:

CLADDING THE SHED

• I wasn’t sure if I was going to clad the shed with the tongue and groove pine vertically or horizontally. But once I clamped some boards in place for a test fit I realized that vertical was the best way to go. This meant I could trim each board to fit from the ground up and hide the uneven slope of the ground.

• I used the boards with the “flat” side facing out (as opposed to the groove side) so there wasn’t so many vertical lines and I think it looks smoother. 
  
• Each of the boards locks into the next and they were secured to the frame with 50mm brad nails which give it a clean look. 

• Once all the vertical boards were nailed in place I moved onto the doors and trim work. 

- Step 5:

TRIM and DOORS

• Before I could start the doors I finished off the trim work on the top of the door and its frame with the 64mm x 19mm DAR pine timber.  Again, these were secured to the frame with the 50mm brad nails. 
  
• I had never made doors before but followed the same process I had with the framing. 
  
• I measured up the overall distance between the door frame from “side to side” and “top to bottom”.
  
• I then divided the horizontal number in half and took off another 5mm to allow for a little bit of swelling / shrinkage depending on the weather. 
  
• I made a basic frame, cladded it with the tongue and groove pine and finished off the edges with the trim. 

• I did one door at a time and clamps and shims (pieces of scrap timber placed underneath the door when fitting) are a huge help.

• Once I was happy with the fit I secured the door with black 100mm hinges (three on each door) and made sure it swung freely and that both doors closed neatly together. 

** I hit a snag with my design for the doors when I realized that because of the slope of the ground at the front of the shed I couldn’t have the doors swing outwards which was my preference. This meant that I couldn’t use the matte black gate hinges on the exterior that were a big part of the barn look I was going for. So, you’ll see in the finished pics that I have used them for decoration only… I cut them with an angle grinder and cutting disc flush with the edge of the door trim and fitted them in two pieces to the finished door trim so that even though they’re not functional they still look the part. 

- Step 6:

ROOFLINE, TRIM and FINIAL

• Once the doors were hung I focused on finishing off the front of the roof with trim pieces and added a very basic timber finial for looks and to attach a solar light to. 

- Step 7:

PAINT

• The whole timber facade was given a solid coat of the ever reliable Dulux 1 Step Prep which is a primer, sealer and undercoat all in one. 
  
• I used a broad brush to get in all the corners and grooves. 

• I then gave the main body of the facade two coats of Dulux solagard low sheen paint in Monument which matches Mum’s decking. 
  
• The trim was also given two coats of Dulux solagard low sheen paint in Dover White for a great contrast with the monument and to show off the black hardware. 

- Step 8:

FINAL FINISHING TOUCHES

• Now it was time for the fun stuff that pulls it all together. 
  
• The matte black door handles, latch and hinges were fitted with matching black 50mm countersunk screws.
  
• I trimmed down some of the left over DAR pine to make a basic window frame which I painted white.  This was then nailed in place with the brad nails. 

• I painted the plastic window boxes in white so they didn’t blend into the wall so much and used artificial flowers and greenery. 
  
• The solar barn light above the doors finished everything off.

The final product… Mum is happy with it so that’s the main thing 😁

Thanks, I hope that all made sense 👍🏻

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, @DonR. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for sharing your project.

You've done an outstanding job transforming what was a fairly ordinary garden shed into a real feature of the backyard. The barn-inspired design looks fantastic, and it's clear a lot of thought went into every stage of the build. I particularly like how you worked around the existing shed rather than replacing it, and the decorative gate hinges were a clever way to achieve the look you were after despite the doors needing to open inwards.

Thanks also for putting together such a detailed guide. Your explanations and the photos documenting each stage will be a great resource for members looking to tackle a similar project.

I hope we see plenty more of your projects and ideas around the community.

Mitchell