Hi all, have just noticed some water damage on the corner of my window in the kitchen. I’ve scrapped back the paint to show the following lower section of the unpainted area is a little soft to touch and suggestions on how or who to get to repair?
Hi @wilkos,
The repair itself is relatively straightforward, but the first priority is working out how water has managed to get into the timber. Until the source of the leak is resolved, any repair is likely to fail over time.
Once you've addressed the water entry, you can repair the damaged section by first removing any loose or crumbling timber, which it looks like you have already done. Apply a wood hardener to strengthen the remaining timber, then rebuild the damaged area using Builder's Bog. It's often easiest to apply the bog in a couple of thin layers rather than one thick application. Once it's fully cured, sand it flush with the surrounding frame, apply an undercoat and then repaint with a water-based enamel.
Let me tag @GaryArmadale, @thi1234 and @JenD, to see if they have any advice.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc
here are some more photos with the paint scrapped back and also some of the external window in question
Many thanks for sharing those additional photos.
Tracking down water leaks can sometimes be quite difficult, as the water often enters in one location and doesn't become visible until much further along its path. From the photos, I can't see any particularly obvious entry points, which can make these types of leaks a little frustrating to diagnose.
One area that I do think is worth addressing is the gap that has opened up above the window. I'd suggest cleaning it out and applying a quality exterior sealant such as Sikaflex. It's possible that water is running down the face of the brickwork, tracking across the lintel above the window, then entering through that gap and making its way down inside the wall before showing up at the corner of the frame.
If sealing that gap doesn't resolve the issue, or you can't identify any other obvious source, it would be worth enlisting the services of a leak detection specialist. They have the equipment and experience to pinpoint moisture entry without having to resort to unnecessary exploratory work.
Please keep us updated on what you find, as that will help determine the best long-term solution.
I was going to run some clear sikaflex along that and maybe in the lower corners. It does get a lot of rain exposure
as for the timber given the photo supplied would the hardener and bog still be applicable?
Cheers
Be careful applying sealant at the bottom of window frames @wilkos. In many situations, this area is left unsealed to allow any trapped water to escape.
If you feel the timber is not soft at all, then you can skip the hardener. The bog will be needed to fill the depression where you've removed timber.
ah yes that makes total sense…
ok cool so use like the Turbo repair kit or? Could you suggest a product that’s suitable for this small job
Yes, the Builder's Bog is what you would use, @wilkos. There is the https://www.bunnings.com.au/turbo-175ml-builders-bog-flexipack_p1670144?msockid=03fc5caf25bf6f4132834be3245f6ed2 , which is a smaller quantity.
For a filling patch this deep, you really want to use a two-part filler. You could use a standard timber filler, but you'd likely need to do several coats. Another option could be https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-230g-plastic-wood-filler-cement_p1231505 , if you didn't want to use a two-part product.
