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The project:
I built a 6.4 m² low‑profile composite deck to transform an uneven landscaping strip that sat between the boundary fence and tiled alfresco. The area was originally covered with loose pebbles, which made it unstable, messy, and unusable as part of the outdoor living space. My goal was to expand the alfresco by converting this narrow, awkward zone into a level, durable sitting area that visually and functionally connects with the existing tiles. By installing a low‑profile composite deck, I created a modern, low‑maintenance extension of the alfresco that maximises the available space and turns a previously neglected section of the yard into a practical outdoor zone.
- Materials:
- Ekodeck Designer boards - 137 × 23 mm, 5.4 m lengths in Alpine Ash/Ironwood finish for the deck surface.
- Ekodeck Concealed QuickFix system - 6 mm clips with 100 m stainless‑steel screws, suited for timber joists.
- Pedestal foot supports - Builders Edge Smallfoot 35–60 mm adjustable feet for levelling the low‑profile frame.
- Joist Protectadeck tape - 45 × 25 mm waterproof tape applied to joists for moisture protection.
- Pine structural timber — H3 treated pine 90 × 45 mm × 4.8 m lengths for the subframe.
- Pryda triple‑grip brackets — Used for strong joist‑to‑bearer connections instead of standard joist hangers.
- Pryda joist hangers — Used selectively for end‑joist support where required.
- Screw bugle batten Titan IHX — 14G × 100 mm galvanised screws for secure fastening.
- Zenith 8G/10G x 40mm Galvanised Type 17 Countersunk Head Timber Screws - for secure fastening the bearer to the pedestals
- Concrete pavers — Used as footing pads under pedestal feet for stability.
- Existing landscaping Pebbles — Spread beneath the deck to improve water runoff.
- Existing weed mat — Already installed during previous landscaping, retained under the deck for weed control.
- Tools:
- Miter saw — For cutting composite decking boards and trimming timber joists to length.
- Impact driver — Used for driving bugle batten screws, Quickfix decking screws and fastening brackets securely.
- Drill — For pre‑drilling holes where required and installing hardware.
- Spirit level — Essential for ensuring the frame and pedestal feet were perfectly level.
- Measuring tape — For accurate layout, spacing, and board length measurements.
- Hammer - For nailing the Brackets to Joists and Bearers
- Pencil & chalk line — For marking straight cut lines and layout references.
- Shovel — Used during ground preparation to level soil and spread drainage gravel.
- Steel Tamper - Used during ground preparation to level soil
- Ekodeck Deck Planner webpage : https://www.ekodeck.com.au/resources/deck-calculator/
- Step 1:
Before Photo:
Clear the Pebbles
- Shovel and rake all pebbles out of the landscaping strip
Remove Existing Weed Mat
- Cut and lift the weed mat in manageable sections
Compact the Ground
- Use a manual tamper to compact the entire area
- Apply firm, even pressure across all sections
- Re-check for soft spots and re-tamp as needed
- Step 2:
Prepare Recesses, Reinstate Weed Mat, Lay Pavers, Install Pedestals & Secure Bearers
After compacting the ground, the next stage was to prepare stable footing points for the deck structure.
Cutting Out Paver‑Sized Recesses
To ensure each paver sat securely and wouldn’t shift over time, I cut out paver‑sized recesses in the compacted ground.
These recesses allowed the pavers to:
- Sit slightly embedded into the soil
- Lock firmly into place
- Resist movement under load
- Maintain long‑term level alignment beneath the pedestals
Each recess was shaped precisely to match the footprint of a single paver.
Re‑laying the Weed Mat
Once the recesses were created, I placed the weed mat back over the compacted ground, ensuring it covered the entire area.
This step ensured:
- Weed control beneath the deck
- Separation between soil and paver sand
- A clean, stable base for the pavers
The weed mat was pressed down into the recesses so the pavers could sit neatly on top.
Laying the Pavers
Inside each recess (on top of the weed mat), I added a small amount of paver sand only under each paver.
This allowed fine levelling without spreading sand across the whole area.
I then installed two rows of concrete pavers, with six pavers per row, ensuring each one sat flat, stable, and locked into its recess.
Installing the Pedestals
Once the pavers were level, I placed one adjustable pedestal on each paver, giving a total of 12 pedestals.
These pedestals provided precise height adjustment and ensured the bearers would sit perfectly level.
Positioning & Securing the Bearers
I installed two main bearers, each supported by six pedestals:
- One bearer adjacent to the alfresco
- One bearer adjacent to the house fence
Each bearer was then screwed into the pedestals using timber screws, locking the frame securely in place and preventing any movement.
- Step 3:
Build the Deck Frame by Installing Joists & Securing Them with Pryda Triple‑Grip Brackets
With the bearers securely fixed to the pedestals, the next stage was to construct the deck frame by installing the joists on top of the bearers.
Installing the Joists
I positioned the joists perpendicular to the bearers with each joist spacing maintained between 350mm to 400mm ensuring consistent spacing suitable for composite decking installation. Each joist was checked for straightness and alignment so the frame would remain square and level across the entire deck area.
Securing Joists to Bearers
To create a strong and stable frame, I connected every joist‑to‑bearer junction using Pryda triple‑grip brackets.
- Each joint was fastened with two triple‑grip brackets — one on each side of the joist.
- This provided excellent lateral strength and prevented any twisting or movement over time.
- The brackets were fixed using timber screws, ensuring a tight and durable connection.
This method created a rigid, well‑supported frame capable of carrying the composite decking boards while maintaining long‑term stability.
** I also used Online Ekodeck Deck Planner webpage to help me visualise and finalise the deck frame and layout design.
- Step 4:
Apply Protectadeck Tape to All Joists
With the deck frame fully assembled and secured, the next step was to protect the timber joists from moisture exposure.
Applying Protectadeck Tape
I applied Protectadeck joist protection tape along the entire top surface of every joist.
This tape creates a waterproof barrier that prevents water from sitting directly on the timber, helping to:
- Extend the life of the H3 treated pine
- Reduce the risk of rot or moisture damage
- Improve long‑term durability of the deck structure
The tape was nailed onto each joist to ensure full adhesion and a smooth surface for the decking clips to sit on.
- Step 5:
Install Composite Decking Boards and Create the Border Frame
With the joists protected and the frame complete, the next step was to install the composite decking boards.
Creating the Border First
Instead of using fascia boards, I created a clean perimeter by installing regular Ekodeck boards as a border frame around the deck.
This involved:
- Cutting the boards to length for the outer edges
- Positioning them carefully to form a neat rectangular outline
- Ensuring the border sat square and aligned with both the alfresco tiles and the fence
This border established the visual frame of the deck and ensured the internal boards would sit perfectly within it.
Installing the Decking Boards
Once the border was complete, I began installing the remaining decking boards inside the frame.
- Each board was aligned and inserted into the Ekodeck QuickFix concealed clip system
- The clips automatically set the correct spacing between boards
- Stainless‑steel screws were used to secure each clip into the joists
- Boards were pushed into place by hand
I continued this process board by board until the entire deck surface was completed, resulting in a clean, modern finish with consistent spacing and no visible screw heads.
- Step 6:
Complete Edge Boards, Final Checks & Clean the Deck
With all internal decking boards installed, the final stage was to finish the edges, complete alignment checks, and prepare the deck for use.
Installing Edge Boards on the Short Ends
To close off the exposed ends of the deck, I installed edge boards made from regular Ekodeck boards (not fascia boards).
This involved:
- Cutting boards to the exact width of the deck
- Fixing them neatly along the shorter ends to create a clean, enclosed finish
- Ensuring the edge boards aligned perfectly with the border frame and internal boards
The longer sides of the deck did not require edge boards because:
- One long side was already finished neatly against the alfresco tiles
- The opposite long side was naturally closed off by the house fence
This gave the deck a clean, framed appearance without needing additional fascia materials.
Trimming & Aligning Board Ends
I checked all board ends along the border and edge boards to ensure they were straight and uniform.
Any slight overhangs were trimmed using the circular saw to achieve a crisp, professional finish.
Checking Spacing & Fastening
I inspected the entire deck surface to confirm:
- Consistent spacing from the QuickFix clips
- All boards were fully seated in the clip system
- Every clip was properly screwed into the joists
- No movement or misalignment across the deck
