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The project:
I had initially written this project off as too hard, but after seeing a segment onĀ Better Homes and GardensĀ and then an article in theĀ Bunnings MagazineĀ about giving life back to these seats, I knew I had to try.
What started as a heavily rusted, paint-caked antique bench bound for the tip became a garden centerpiece. To rescue the intricate cast-iron end frames, the piece was pressure washed (gurneyed) and treated to multiple rounds of chemical paint stripper to cut through four stubborn layers of old finish.
To achieve a flawless, smooth surface over decades of cast-iron pitting, auto filler primer was applied before laying down two coats of Rust-Oleum spray paint in a vibrant resort teal. The original rotten timber was replaced with durable Merbau decking slats secured with new hardware. Restored and rebuilt from the ground up, this heirloom now sits proudly in the garden under the shade of the fig tree.
- Materials:
1L Polystrippa Paint Stripper
1x can spray primer (note: I used an auto primer due to the condition of my seat frame but would have used this Rustoleum primer if the frame was in better condition)
1x can Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Ultra Matt Spray Paint in Deep Teal
3x Merbau pre-oiled decking 42x19mm in 2.7m length
3x Merbau pre-oiled decking 70x19mm in 2.7m length
24 x ZENITH M8 x 75mm Hot Dip Galvanised Cup Head Bolts And Nuts
- Tools:
High-pressure washer
Trojan Wire Brush With Scraper
Circular saw, hand saw, or ask the Bunnings team to cut your timber
Drill
9mm Drill bit
13mm spanner
- Step 1:
Pressure Wash the Cast Iron Frame: Blast the cast-iron ends with a high-pressure washer (gurney) to remove built-up dirt, grime, and loose, flaking paint down to a firm surface. Allow to dry completely.
- Step 2:
Chemical Paint Stripping: Brush a liberal coat of chemical paint stripper directly onto the cast-iron scrollwork using a paintbrush. Let the stripper react according to product directions, then use a wire brush/scraper to scrape away the softened paint. Repeat this brush-on process as needed to remove all underlying layers down to raw metal.
- Step 3:
High-Build Auto Priming: Apply two coats of spray primer in light, even coats. Because I could not strip all of the paint layers and had some rust build up on my frame, I used a high-build auto primer to fill in deep pitting, rust craters, and surface imperfections, creating a completely smooth base. Allow to dry as per product instructions.
- Step 4:
Apply paint: Spray two complete coats of Rust-Oleum teal spray paint over the primed cast iron. Maintain a steady distance while spraying to avoid runs, ensuring full coverage across all intricate details for a weather-resistant finish.
- Step 5:
Cut and Drill Timber Slats: Measure and cut Merbau decking panels to size for the seat and backrest slats using a saw. I cut mine to 1.35m so that I got two per length of decking. One at a time, clamp each panel securely to the cast iron frame and use a permanent marker through the frame to mark the exact drilling point on the back of the slat. Number each panel as you go for ease of assembly later. Drill holes through each slat in the marked drill points.
Tip: if you don't have a saw, or aren't confident with the saw, the Bunnings team does cut timber to length if you ask them in the timber yard :).
- Step 6:
Assemble the Seat: Align the cut Merbau slats with the mounting holes on the painted cast-iron end frames. Thread new bolts through the slats and ironwork, then tighten securely with nuts and washers using a spanner to complete the build.
- Step 7:
Sit Down and Relax: Position your seat in your desired location and enjoy some down time!
- Step 8:
Notes: some of the existing panels on our seat were rotten/eaten by pests so we needed to upgrade them. If they were salvageable I would have sanded them and stained them rather than replacing them. If you can salvage yours, make sure you use a drop sheet and painters tape to protect the slats when you spray paint the frame.
