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How to fill and flush new chases?

rodgers1488

Hi all

I need to flush the chases shown in my photo now that I’ve backfilled the main depth of them. How should I do this considering the peeled back paint either side?

Do I sand back the paint edges and fill up to / over them? What material should I use?

thanks in advance!

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Jason

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @rodgers1488. It's great to have you join us. We're sure you'll get loads of help and inspiration for all your D.I.Y. projects from our clever and creative members.

Let me tag a few members to see how they would tackle this one: @Project_Palmetto, @OurPretty_LittleHome, @craig.browne, @courtneyandconstruct, @Dave-1

Jason

R4addZ

Hi @rodgers1488

I'm assuming you are doing this for a wall mounted TV and before you finish this off, can I ask why there is no slack at the top to allow you to actually plug into the TV?

rodgers1488

Hi R4addz

The two HDMI cables are 3m long and rolled up at the bottom, plenty to pull up through the conduit.

Cheers mate

Dave-1

Good Evening @rodgers1488

Mmmm I have not backfilled a concrete wall before :) I would have presumed some mortar but I would say I am in the same kettle as you in not being able to suggest something solid. (Yes I see the pun :) )

What did you use to fill the chased lines? And is it possible to over fill and thand sand back with course sandpaper, then using finer sandpaper to feather it in before repainting? I have used a fine plaster fill for filling old cracked ceilings before but not sure enough to suggest a product for a concrete wall :/

Dave

rodgers1488

Thanks Dave.

It’s a masonry wall with a white plaster top coat. I used Procroc Basecoat to fill the chases and left level or marginally below level to allow for a top coat. I’m most concerned with marrying in the to existing paint. Should I fill up to and over the paint and just sand back with fine

R4addZ

Hi @rodgers1488

Ok I didn't see any sign of a conduit and wanted to be sure. I would just fill right across the lot and sand it smooth using something like polyfilla. mainly you want to feather out all the edges for a smooth finish. Also yes it is easy to over fill so apply a thin coat and build it up as needed letting it dry between coats of filler as the filler can shrink back leaving a dip if you put too much on at a time and thicker coats take longer to dry.

OurPretty_LittleHome

My house is exactly the same—brick with a plaster top coat. I used Gyprock Pro Repair 10 to fill the chases, then feathered it out over the existing paint edges rather than stopping right at them. Before patching, I'd make sure there's no loose or peeling paint around the edges. Give it a bit of a scratch, and if any paint lifts easily, peel it back until you get to a solid edge and patch over that as well. Once it's dry, sand it back with a fine grit until it blends into the surrounding wall. After primer and paint, you shouldn't be able to tell where the chase was. The key is feathering it out a little wider so you don't end up with a visible ridge. Good luck!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/csr-gyprock-8kg-pro-repair-10-patch-and-repair_p0086826

JacobZ

Hi @rodgers1488,

I'd go with the method @OurPretty_LittleHome has mentioned.

The only additional advice I can offer is to go wider than you'd think, as somewhat counterintuitively, it is much easier to hide plaster that is applied wider than it is narrow. This is because there will be very slight height variation where the topping coat is applied. It is much easier to hide that height variation over a wider patch than it is a very narrow one.

Where the two chases run parallel to each other, you'd likely be best to join the plaster into one consecutive run, that finishes around 150mm past the chases. With the single chase at the top, again finish the plaster around 150mm on each side of the chase.

I'd suggest using a wide taping knife like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/kango-355mm-stainless-taping-knife_p0098426 as it will ensure you get plenty of width on your patches.

Get it as close to smooth as you can, then sand it back, prime and paint.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

courtneyandconstruct

Completely agree @JacobZ — going wider is definitely the trick. I found it much easier to get a smooth finish once I stopped trying to keep the patch too tight 😊