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How to extend internal brick wall render?

mattheww1

I'm planning to install an electric fireplace into this old fireplace. However the old render on the wall facing into the room needs to be extended on the sides and top so that it reaches the edge of the recess. How can I build up a level surface and finish it so that it's blends with the existing render? I'm completely new to rendering.

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JacobZ

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @mattheww1. It is wonderful to have you with us.

The first thing you'll want to do is check if there are any ventilation or clearance requirements for your new electric heater to ensure it can be installed in this spot. If it is not in line with the requirements, you may need to look at alterations to the space or moving it elsewhere entirely. It's unlikely, but worth checking first.

I could be wrong, but to my eye, that looks to be plaster/plasterboard, rather than render. If you crumble off a small amount of the material, does it feel chalky and extremely fine, or grainy like there is sand in it? Is it perfectly white, or is there a slight grey tinge to it? How many mm proud of the brick does it sit?

If it is about 10-12mm proud of the brick and feels chalky like I suspect it will, then I'd say it is plasterboard rather than render. If that is the case, I'd say the easiest way to finish the fireplace would be to cut the plasterboard back a bit, then use https://www.bunnings.com.au/gyprock-csr-20kg-drywall-masonry-adhesive_p0734625 to direct stick new plasterboard to the brick.

To do this, I would start by cutting back the existing plasterboard by around 200mm or so, then sticking the new plasterboard in place. Cutting it back further is so you have enough room to effectively plaster a join between the new plasterboard and old plaster. At the current width, it would be very difficult to hide this join, hence cutting it back. Once the new plasterboard is in place, you can join the new and old using mesh tape and all-purpose compound.

You can then attach plaster to the inside walls of the old fireplace and use external angle plaster trims to square set the opening.

If you wanted to maintain the brick look for aesthetic reasons, you could do the same but simply use a stop bead to cap the plasterboard flush with the opening, rather than extending it around the corner. If you are doing this, you need to install the stop bead before you adhere the plasterboard to the brick.

You can then sand, prime and paint to finish things off before installing your new electric heater.

Allow me to tag experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1, @OurPretty_LittleHome and @simondixon to see what they think and if they'd go with a different method.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Morning @mattheww1

It does look like plaster :) Which will make life easier for sure. I can suggest two ways of working the edge. Comes down to your taste and want.

Plaster the area as @JacobZ has suggested. You will get nice clean straight lines. I've stuck plaster straight to brick when I was renoing my garage. Here is the link and in particular half way down the page. You could use the metal edge Siniat 30 x 3000mm Archway Bead Plaster Trim if you want it flush with the brickwork edge or a right angle version Siniat 30 x 2400mm 90° External Angle Plaster Trim if you want to take the plaster around and into the old heater area.

Garage lining for stud walls stage 1

The plaster sheet hasnt moved away from the brick at all. I just used some of the plaster goop (my name for the glue I think?) as it said I could on the side of the container.

The other idea I had was A timber frame depending on the style of heater and allowances that you are going towards. For some reason I am thinking of a smaller frame of say 50mm width would look quiet nice with a darker tone to it.

Would love to see a project showing the steps down the tarck :) Take lots of photos!

Dave

mattheww1

Thanks for your replies @JacobZ and @Dave-1!

I'm not sure if it's plasterboard, or at least not the kind of plasterboard I'm familiar with. It sits about 4-5mm proud of the brick. Here's a cross-section of a bit that broke away. Let me know what you think.

Cheers!

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @mattheww1

Mmmm is the internal walls of your house fibro? Tho it looks more like a concrete sheet. Can you crumble it between your fingers is the next question I have?

Dave

mattheww1

Hi @Dave-1, it doesn't really crumble. When I apply pressure it snaps and only creates a bit of white chalky dust.

Could it be a thinner layer of plaster (and opposed to plasterboard)?

The rest of the internal walls are plasterboard.

JacobZ

Hi @mattheww1,

It could just be a plaster compound like https://www.bunnings.com.au/gyprock-csr-20kg-hardwall-plaster_p0731635 which has been directly applied to the brick, like you would with render. Regardless of what it is, if it is 4-5mm, you can't really follow the recommendations I made above because the plasterboard and accompanying beads won't work.

Perhaps you could install something resembling an architrave around the opening. You could use something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/66-x-11mm-5-4m-moulding-white-pine-fj-primed-dar_p0021147 as a border around the brick, attaching it using Liquid Nails, masonry plugs and screws, and then use the hardwall plaster to fill the gap between the timber and the plaster.

If your doors and windows have architraves, you could measure them and use the same profile to keep things consistent with the rest of the house.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

mattheww1

Hi @JacobZ,

Thanks for that suggestion. So if I use that hardwall plaster, I should be able to fill the gap and blend it in smoothly with the existing plaster? Would you still recommend I cut the existing plaster back or would that not be necessary?

Dave-1

Afternoon @mattheww1

You will need to create a tidy edge, it will make it a lot easier to work with and for the plaster to bind. If its what we think it is you should be able to score it with a Stanley knife against say a metal ruler or level held up to the edge you want.

Dave

JacobZ

Hi @mattheww1,

You should be able to, but it could be a bit tricky. If you weren't confident, it might be worth contacting a plasterer or renderer for their assistance.

I'd still suggest cutting it back a bit because you'll have to fill the area, allow it to dry, then mesh tape over the join and cover it. Wherever there is tape, you're going to have a slight hump. If you put that join too close to the architrave, the hump will run into the architrave, where it will be much more obvious. If you cut the existing plaster back so the join is further over, you'll be able to feather it out and hide it better than you would if it was right up close.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

mattheww1

Thanks @JacobZ and @Dave-1! That's very helpful advice. I'll give it a go and post again if I have any issues along the way.

JacobZ

Hi @mattheww1,

I will also add that due to the unknown nature of what the material is, it would be wise to get it tested by a NATA accredited laboratory to make sure it isn't asbestos containing before you do any work.

It is always better to be safe than sorry when working around unknown materials.

Jacob