How do I install shelving with minimal visible brackets?

Question

Hi,

I am re-fitting a walk in robe. I’ve attached a photo of a rough sketch for the first side of it. But basically this is what I want to do:

2100 height to the very top shelf from the floor

Top shelf 450 deep

Left side 600 wide will be double hanging with a shelf in between (450 deep)

Right side is total of 875 wide

Bottom half will be single hanging with a shelf above (450 deep)

Top half will be 2x shelves of 550 wide and 2x shelves of 325 wide. I was wanting these not as deep however realised after doing my sketch that it wouldn’t work as the vertical panels might make it look odd so please ignore that measurement on the sketch.

I don’t like the look of any metal brackets (I’m not sure what you call them but look like a triangle). I was hoping I’d be able to attach timber horizontal along the wall in studs and sit the shelves above. However wasn’t sure with the depth of 450 if I have enough vertical panels to hold that?

And on both sides on the wall, would I need a panel there too? I was hoping not to.

I was looking at this to use:

Specrite 2200 x 600 x 26mm Timber Multi Use Pine Panel

https://www.bunnings.com.au/applinks_p0419616?source=product_share&utm_source=bunnings&utm_medium=retail-app&utm_campaign=product_share&utm_content=pdp_deeplink

Or even the 18mm for the vertical panels and top/mid shelves and use the 26mm for shelves.

I wanted to paint it white but seal with water based polyurethane for the shelves on the top right.

I also only have hand saws and a jigsaw. Was looking at a mitre saw to do all my trims and skirting later. But I still wouldn’t be able to cut the panels. What would be the best way to cut them with what I have.

Any help would be appreciated!

JacobZ · Answer

Hi @toriwy,

The Cabot's poly will work just fine and the Zinsser BIN stain blocking primer will also work fine. Just make sure you give the materials a light sand and a good clean before applying them to help with adhesion.

Most cabinets use 16-18mm melamine or plywood, so your choice of material is pretty similar to the standard materials used in this kind of application. If the spans were much wider, 26mm would be a better option, however you should be fine with either option in this configuration.

It looks like a solid plan and I am excited to see how you go. Please don't hesitate to reach out for support or guidance along the way. We are always here to help.

Jacob

toriwy · Answer

Thanks @JacobZ for your reply and tips.

I will check out the mudroom ideas. I have looked at the wardrobe inserts and have also used them before but wanted to do something a bit different and to be honest, I don’t mind learning a new skill.

I have some of the Cabot’s poly I’ve used before so will use that. I have used the BIN stain blocking primer before, would you use this on the panels to paint?

Putting a timber strip along the front will actually work well as I was hoping to hide some lighting too.

And would use the 18mm or 26mm for the top shelf?

Thanks again!

JacobZ · Answer

Hi @toriwy,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It is wonderful to have you with us.

Your plan looks achievable, and using timber cleats would be a good way to support the shelves without any visible brackets. Something like this 42 x 11mm primed pine DAR would be a commonly used profile for cleats. The cleats can be screwed through the plasterboard into the wall studs, with the shelves then sitting on and being screwed to the cleats.

Looking at the dimensions of your shelves, I don't think additional support should be necessary. Your vertical divider panels alongside the cleats on 3 sides should be enough support for the weight you could expect in a wardrobe.

In saying this, if you install the shelves and find that the front edge feels a little flimsy, you could stiffen it by attaching a length of timber underneath the front edge of the shelf. Something like 42 x 19mm DAR pine, installed vertically with the 42mm face hanging down, would substantially increase the rigidity of the shelf while still keeping the support relatively unobtrusive.

For cutting the panels, I'd recommend investing in a circular saw and using a clamped straight edge or spirit level as a guide. This will be much better suited to making long, straight cuts through the panels than a jigsaw or handsaw. Have a look at

https://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-advice/home-improvement/splashbacks-benchtops/how-to-cut-laminate-benchtop

for an example of this technique in practice.

You could certainly paint things white and use clear polyurethane for any exposed timber. For the white sections, use a quality primer followed by an enamel paint for a quality, hard wearing coating. For your clear polyurethane, something like

https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-250ml-matt-water-based-cabothane-clear-polyurethane_p1520403

would be a good option. Just be aware that it wouldn't be advisable to apply clear polyurethane over paint, nor would there be too much benefit.

Once assembled, with your cleats securely fixed back to the wall framing, you should have a strong shelving system without the need for prominent metal brackets.

Alternatively, you might like to check out Lugna's wardrobe planner -

https://www.lugna.com.au/design-your-storage/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24002096344&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkJTm1MCclwMVIuoWBR2jQTrBEAAYASAAEgJH1PD_BwE

. It can be used to design a shelving system for use in wardrobes like yours. If you weren't so confident cutting your own materials, it could be a good option for you.

You might also like to check out these 15 mud room storage projects for som inspiration. They are slightly different in terms of use, but alot of the same principles apply.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob