Recommendations wanted for window putty repair

I have old steel frame windows at the front of my brick house and all of the substance that is I assume supposed to be holding the window glass in and finishing it off cosmetically is all crumbling and needs to be replaced.

I have no idea what product to use and how to do it. Can anyone please assist? Obviously it will also need a bit of a clean to get rid of mould etc as you can see from the photo below... And yeah, then we need to get onto repainting the windows, too.

Window and frame with the putty that needs replacing

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Comments

Mathy

Hi @Shane - that looks like a traditional window linseed oil based putty. Selleys make a version (called Special Putty), here’s a link

https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/putty/selleys-special-putty

Looking at this, it doesn’t mention steel windows, so you may want to do a bit more research. All the older steel windows I’ve seen have used traditional window putty. Someone else might be able to offer more certainty.

Fairly sure you need to paint linseed putty with an oil based product. I’m not sure if using modern products such as silicon is appropriate - there again some research might help.

Mould and stuff can be cleaned off with a mould remover. Hope this gets you started, cheers Deb 🙂

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/8124#Comment_8124

Thanks for sharing your knowledge @Mathy.

@Shane let me tag @MitchellMc for you as he might be able to assist with more product information.

Jason

MitchellMc

Hi @Shane. Many thanks for your question, I'd be happy to recommend how to repair the window putty.

As Deb (@Mathy) has mentioned, that material is likely to be a linseed based putty traditionally used around window glazing.

If you remove all the damaged portions by carefully prying it away with a flat head screwdriver or chisel, you can then apply new putty. Special Putty is not like wood filler, it is sticky and takes a certain amount of technique to get a great finish. I would instead recommend replacing it with Sikaflex 11fc Polyurethane Sealant which you can caulk into the corner. It will give you a much neater finish and is more time-efficient. Make sure to clean out any residual putty that might be left on the glass or frame before applying the Sika product.

If you would like further information about the products or had other questions, please let me know.

Mitchell

Shane

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/8128#Comment_8128

Great, thanks for all. Will let you know how I go with it. Certainly favour the easier to use option. Getting rid of the existing putty is not a problem, it is all crumbling off itself. But not sure what product to use to clean up the general grime and mould. Any thoughts @MitchellMc?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/66245#Comment_66245

Hi @Shane.

I'd recommend some Glitz Spray On Wipe Off and a stiff bristle scrubbing brush. Anything that isn't removed with the cleaning fluid, I would lightly sand back with 180 grit sandpaper. If you think the mould is a returning issue, treat with Selleys Rapid Mould Killer.

I hope that assists you. If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Mitchell

zaracat

There are special epoxy based putties and mastics available for steel framed windows, but for DIY purposes linseed oil based putty is fine and is what would have been used originally. When replacing putty, it's also important to remove any rust and then prime the exposed steel first, as any rust present will expand under the putty and eventually cause it to flake off.

Steps are: remove any loose putty, dirt, flaking paint and rust (rust remover +/- sand back). Stubborn mould can be removed with cleaning vinegar (6% acetic acid) and an old toothbrush, but make sure you rinse it off well or it will accelerate rusting. Once clean, prime any bare steel with a metal primer. Once this is dry apply putty and smooth with a putty knife. Now leave the putty alone until it has formed a skin - this may take days-weeks depending on weather, and full hardening will take much longer. Once it has skinned, undercoat and then top coat with an oil based paint.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/13813#Comment_13813

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @zaracat. It's a pleasure to have you join us, and many thanks for adding to the discussion.

It sounds like you are particularly knowledgeable when it comes to D.I.Y. projects, and I'm sure the wider community will greatly appreciate your input. We look forward to hearing about all your projects and plans around the house and garden and would encourage you to let us know anytime you might need assistance or have something to share.

Thanks again.

Mitchell

mareec

@Shane your windows look like ours and we are just starting to repair the flaky paint and cracked putty. Am very interested in how your window repair went.

did the advice in this post help?

did you have any degradation of the putty between the internal side of the glass and frame?

We are also doing a whole house Reno one bit at a time, as we save.

Any lessons learned in repairing steel window frames would be highly appreciated.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/14024#Comment_14024

Hello @mareec

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank you for joining us and sharing your query about window putty repair.

Let me tag @Shane so that they are made aware of your question. Are you planning other renovations in your home? We would love to see what you have planned for your upcoming projects. There are dozens of topics that cover repair and restoration of the home, which I'm sure you will find handy and useful when you make your own remodeling project.

If we can help you with any advice or information about your projects please let us know. Were more than happy to help.

Eric

Shane

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/14024#Comment_14024

@mareec

I'm a bit embarrassed, but this project is still on the to-do list! The internal side looks fine and the glass seems to be still firmly held in place, but we do need to do the external. Maybe share some photos of your windows so the Bunnings guys can see yours and suggest what to use.

Shane

Huzzah! Good progress finally being made. Now just need to wait for the putty to harden and then re-paint the windows.

Before:

Old crumbling putty removed:

New putty:

Shane

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/14024#Comment_14024

How are your windows going @mareec?

There must be lots of interest in this as the post has had thousands of views! Sorry I told so long to get back to you - it certainly hasn't been too difficult with the putty.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75255#Comment_75255

It's certainly been a popular topic @Shane, so many thanks for coming back and updating us on your progress.

I must say you've done a wonderful job! I have fairly advanced skills with using fillers and have had tons of practice. I can't say applying linseed-based filler is one of my favourite things to do. It can be incredibly sticky and hard to work with. You've been able to achieve some really impressive results there. To give you an example of how wrong this can go, check out the fine putty work on my glazing. This isn't my work, I'm not that bad.

Any techniques you could share with our members that might assist them with their own window glazing projects?

I can't wait to see what project you tackle next.

Mitchell

Shane

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101363#Comment_101363

Overdue shot of the finished job after painting.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117965#Comment_117965

Great work @Shane.

Many thanks for sharing a picture of the finished project. Well done.

Mitchell

daPletch

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/66245#Comment_66245

I have used both linseed oil glazing putty and Sika FC extensively.

Agree that putty technique must be learned, but disagree with your implication that using the Sika is an easier way to a tidy finish. In my experience, it is way too sticky to form neatly with any screeding tool, which only leaves the option of getting a smooth well shaped bead direct from the nozzle. This may be achievable in small dimension beads as in delicately mullioned colonial windows, but is unlikely given the much larger dimensions of steel angle frames.

If someone knows how to mechanically form Sika 11 FC tidily, I'd like to know/ see how it's done!

Ps, something noone has mentioned: the putty used in steel windows was sometimes mixed with asbestos fibre to reinforce against cracking. Glazing companies will perform expensive testing prior to replacing steel frame windows. Just so you know....

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/104830#Comment_104830

Thank you so much for joining in the discussion and sharing that important safety message @daPletch. I will share it with the Bunnings Workshop team.

I will also ask the team whether they can share some thoughts about applying Sika FC.

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's great to have you join us. We're looking forward to reading more of your posts soon as it sounds like you have plenty of knowledge and experience to share. Please don't hesitate to post anytime you have something to contribute or need a hand.

Jason

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/104830#Comment_104830

Hi @daPletch,

I'd also like to welcome you to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your comment and sharing that knowledge with us.

I agree that Sika 11 FC is incredibly sticky which can make it difficult to strike off in a smooth aesthetically pleasing way. A trick I've been shown by a glazier that I worked with for some time, is to spray the bead with a mixture of tap water and Morning Fresh before striking off with a silicone scraper of a suitable size. The soap and the water will stop the silicone from sticking to the scraper and spreading out too much onto the surfaces, allowing you to remove excess with ease.

Please keep us updated on any projects or questions that you may have.

Jacob

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