Flashing a polycarbonate roof against a brick wall

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/13339#Comment_13339

I think I have my answer after chatting to a very helpful Suntuf person. Since the Suntuf flashings only come in clear (I don't want the screws to feature) she suggested Zincalum with the same corrugated profile. I think, instead os cutting this into the brickwork, I will use an aluminium profile to sandwich the zincalum to the wall with a suitable adhesive between.

If anyone has a better idea, please let me know. I am off to B to get what I need and will be doing it when I get back.

StevieB

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Russ42. It's great to have you join us, and thanks for reaching out to the community with your questions.

Fantastic to hear that you've received helpful advice for this project already. Our resident D.I.Y. expert @MitchellMc would be happy to assist you with your project, but he'll be back on the site on Friday and it sounds like you'll be finished before then. Let me ask if @redracer01 might be able to share any thoughts.

We'd love to see your pergola and offer ideas and advice for upcoming projects. Please feel free to share any time.

Stevie

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/69178#Comment_69178

Actually, Stevie, the helpful advice was from me. After talking to the Special Orders Desk I have found a floor in my solution. Lysaght, apparently, don't do a flashing with a corrugated profile. They do, at least, do coloured flashings. The Suntuf clear flashing must have the channel to work and the clear polycarbonate will not cover the screws which will be rusty in no time. Also the clear Suntuf can be painted, but will require an undercoat, so can't be painted underneath. I am going to ring around and try to get a Colourbond-like product which has the profile and the colour I need so I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/97575#Comment_97575

Hi @Russ42,

How are you going with your project?

I might need to see a diagram to understand how your sheeting meets the wall and also how you intend to add the flashing to it. If you can't find a profiled flashing to suit, you can use a flat profile and stop water blow-back up under it with corrugated foam infill strips. The strips can sit above the roofing and be sandwiched by the flashing above. The flashing would be directly attached to the wall with Sikaflex 11FC and mechanical fixings.

I look forward to seeing a diagram or images and providing further assistance.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/97575#Comment_97575

Hello @Russ42

Just to add to the suggestions made by @MitchellMc I recommend Selleys roof and gutter sealer for excellent waterproofing for the flashing. If you are still worried about the flashing bonding to the brick wall you could use Consolidated Alloys 75mm x 10m Weatherproof Byute Flash Flashing Tape. It comes in assorted sizes and lengths and almost assumes any shape you might need it for. Mind you this is practical waterproofing and might not be as pretty as you might like it. It will however provide a superior seal against inclement weather. Oh and before I forget there will be no need for you to create a channel for these products as they attach to almost any surface.

Cheers,

Red

Screenshot_2021-05-14 Consolidated Alloys 75mm x 10m Weatherproof Byute Flash Flashing Tape.png Screenshot_2021-05-14 Selleys 310g Roof And Gutter Silicone - Translucent.png

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115466#Comment_115466

Thanks Mitchell. I can't attach the flashing far enough down the roof to hold it down with the foam underneath it as the top perlin (?) is right on the wall (is 45mm thick). I agree with the Sikaflex and I intend using the flyscreen profile Bunning has with a screw and plug into the mortar line. I will have to use a smaller flashing so it doesn't flap around in the breeze....which means: I have kind of thought I could Sikaflex a shaped bit of something at the end of each of the Suntuf's valleys up at the end under the flashing.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115467#Comment_115467

Thanks Red. Would the "Weatherproof Byte Flashing Tape" stick to the flat wall (I will have to Silicone/Sikaflex up the vertical mortar joints) and hold in the valleys of the Suntuf? I could then paint the zincalum flashing and lay it over the top....

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/125610#Comment_125610

Your flashing need only extend out onto the roof the width of the infill strip @Russ42. Since the infill strip is only about 20mm wide, you could use rigid Metal Mate 32 x 25 x 3.0mm 1m Aluminium Unequal Angle. Mount the 25mm wide side to the wall, and the other side will extend out 32mm over the roofing. Before fixing it to the wall, sandwich the foam strip in between it and the roofing.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132421#Comment_132421

Makes sense, thanks Mitchell. I can't see a problem with that at all. Excellent! I will see what stainless steel B has to do the job. We are close to the beach.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136568#Comment_136568

As aluminium doesn't rust, it would be a good choice to use in close proximity to the beach @Russ42. For instance, you'll often find it used to build boats. You need to be careful with stainless steel as there are many grades, and the readily available lower grades rust easily. Aluminium tarnishes and corrodes in very salty environments, but this can be almost completely negated by coating it with an etch primer and epoxy-enamel paint. I'd take bare aluminium over a lower grade stainless steel any day in a salty environment.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139442#Comment_139442

I was thinking of the fixings. Gal screws are no good, aluminium is not strong enough to make screws, same with plastics, leaves SS.....unless you have an alternative.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141376#Comment_141376

I apologise @Russ42, I presumed you were talking about the flashing.

Why did you not want to use galvanised screws?

Climacoat screws are both suitable for treated pine and have a protective coating on them which will prevent corrosion. If these screws are to hold down the polycarbonate, you'll need Buildex 26mm Dome Sealing Washers on them to prevent leakage. You'll also need to fix into the peak of the ridges, often people make the mistake of fixing in the troughs. If you fix in the trough's water pools and drips through the holes. Another tip is to oversize your pilot holes otherwise when the sheeting expands and contracts it'll rub against the screw, making a squeaking noise.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142829#Comment_142829

Elsewhere, Gal fittings, even the RSJ's that are not completely covered, rust. The gutter fittings are rusty, for example. I will need to replace these fittings one day up 2 stories (I put plastic gutters and fittings on the new verandah roof). SS rust, sure, but rusty SS screws I think last longer than rusty gal screws....? I used Gal screws on the Suntuf as I couldn't find an alternative. These will be relatively easy to replace down the line. My partner used to make repurposed jewellery and so she has a box full of the rubber and aluminium washers for the roofing screws... Thanks for your help, Guys. I have a bag full of questions I have no answer for. I will post a few more over the next few weeks

BTW, I used the Climacoat screws, I think, elsewhere into treated pine. I found the square hole very inferior to the Philips head of regular screws. The tool rounded quite readily, even though I tried to use it carefully.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143847#Comment_143847

Generally, unless it is hot dipped Gal with a sufficient coating, you can still have rust issues @Russ42. As you've mentioned, it sounds like stainless might be your best option.

It's interesting to hear about your experience with square drive screws. It took me a long time to convert from Phillips, and I was very dubious of how effective square drive would be. To date, I have now put in well over a couple of thousand and can't say I've ever had a rounded bit. Perhaps you might have had a bad bit supplied with the screws? I wouldn't write them off completely and encourage you to give them another go at some stage. If you experience the same issue, I'd be happy to troubleshoot it with you or organise a refund on the screws and bit.

I look forward to seeing some images of your finished project. Please keep us updated.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144632#Comment_144632

Thanks Mitchell, i am going to give just SSing (short for Silicon/Sikaflex....) the wall ends and see if that seals it up. Is not a critical spot (open verandah beneath). I screwed that end down in the valleys as I wanted the flashing to sit down on the ridges of the Suntuf and not sit proud on the screw heads (I do get "you are overthinking it" a lot...). I will coat these screw heads with SS anyway to try to stop them rusting.

I have not given up on the square drive screws, largely because there is no alternative for treated timber. I haven't tried the driver bit in the packet. I didn't know there was one. I bought one from the tool section.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144632#Comment_144632

Well, I have "finished". I hope to attach a photo. The flashing on the edges are Gal and I will have to replace them from time-to-time because of the proximity to the ocean. I just siliconed the Gal to the tiles and it leaks there. Not surprised. Will add a silicon bead along the top when it has all dried out. Perhaps the bead I put in behind the Gal was not continuous. Not ideal, but I didn't want to put holes in the tiles as the substrate behind is Hebel and I have just "finished" cutting out the rusted rio in the planks and re-rendering overhead (never want to do that again!). Also I screwed the Suntuf down on the wall end in the valleys. I know this is wrong but I figures

1.the high side of the sheets would be fairly safe,

2. I siliconed the screws to put off their rusting

3. the verandah below is just that and not a sealed up room

4. the heads of the roofing screws would prevent the aluminium angle from sitting neatly on the top of the Suntuf.

Also, I omitted to predrill the Suntuf. I screwed it down before I got the word to do so. I did know this was recommended but when I researched it I read that since the roofing screws are self drilling now, it wouldn't be necessary.....wrong, I think. Perhaps this is why the edges of the sheets are curling up a little?

I learned quite a lot and will be putting the same sort of roof over the verandah's above this one. Thanks for your advice, will see how it goes and make the necessary adjustments for the next ones.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145210#Comment_145210

Hello @Russ42

Very nicely done! It's always a win when in the middle of a Reno you get new knowledge from first hand experience. From the pictures you posted it looks expertly done. I reckon your next roofing project should be perfect as you've picked up more information about the process. As to adding an extra bead at the top of the galv flashing may I suggest Selleys Storm silicone seal. It is an all weather sealer that should provide you with a superior seal against harsh weather. Looking forward to your next project!

Cheers,

Red

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145210#Comment_145210

Wonderful work, @Russ42! It's great to see that this project has been successful, and many thanks for updating us.

As @redracer01 has mentioned, we look forward to your next project, and as always, we'll be here to help.

Well done.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145210#Comment_145210

Do you need council permission for this type of job and if so, then how a DIY gets approved from Council

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145666#Comment_145666

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @hk_Engineer. It's a pleasure to have you join us, and many thanks for your question on the required council permissions.

Council regulations vary widely around Australia, and there is no one answer to your question. It's always best to check with your local council before starting work on any significant structures around your home. Start by sketching out what size you would like to make the pergola, including the height and dimensions. You can then approach the council by calling them to find out whether this could require planning permission. If it does, you can then employ the services of a qualified individual to prepare plans for submission.

I look forward to hearing more about your project and assisting you with the construction process. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146013#Comment_146013

I checked with council and they saod nothing more then 20m2 and it should permeable roof.

So mot sire how to get a weaather resistant pergola.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146301#Comment_146301

Hello @hk_Engineer

Welcome to Bunnings Workshop! Did you have a plan in mind? A certain size and shape? If you go to the Bunnings website and search for pergola you will see that the store offers many ready to build kits at different sizes. These pergola kits are weather proof. If any of these pergola kits are sufficient in size and shape just order it at your nearest store at the special orders desk. However if you wish to build one from scratch this is an option as well. If you have any more questions please post it here on workshop.

Cheers,

Red

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146541#Comment_146541

Thanks , I saw the polycarbonate roof material. Ideally wanting to build one .Even the bunnings pergolas are great ,but again if it's over 20m2 and not permeable roof then need to apply for council approval ,how does that work with the Bunnings packaged ones.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146746#Comment_146746

Hello @hk_Engineer

If you find a pergola suitable to your needs go to the special orders desk and ask for the technical specifications of the pergola you wish to purchase. This is the plan you submit to the council for approval. Once you've fulfilled all of the councils regulations and get approval. That is the only time you actually purchase the pergola. But as long as the approval is not in your hands we simply have to wait for it.

Red

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146746#Comment_146746

@hk_Engineer,

Whether it is a packaged product or something you are building yourself, it will either fall under an exempt development or not. The council has the final word on if something needs approval, and they will be able to provide you with numerous resources and guidelines for submitting a plan. There might be conditions such as the structure being non-permanent or not attached to the house, which comes into play with the exemption. You could speak with a qualified engineer who will be well versed in this process and able to advise if there are any alternatives to explore.

Since the council has stated that you'll need a permeable roof for exempt development that really limits your options, if you want a solid roof, you'll need to submit a plan for approval.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146900#Comment_146900

Thanks Mitchell,

For the bunnings packaged pergolas does it comes wih plan as thats a requirement with the council

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/147037#Comment_147037

@hk_Engineer,

I'd be happy to assist you with locating the relevant information on the pergola you choose. For instance, if you selected the Mimosa 3 x 3m Lava Portsea Louvre Semi Permanent Gazebo, here are the structural designs and plans for it.

Mitchell

mp316

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132421#Comment_132421

Hi @MitchellMc am a total noobie but I think I follow your diagrams here. How would I fix the aluminium to the brick wall, and do I need to also fix/glue it to the infill strips? Alternatively, could I use the suntuf clear wall flashing? (But again how would I attach this to the brick wall?) Thanks