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What timber for a workbench benchtop?

I am looking for suitable timber to add as workshop bench top. The top will be screwed onto an existing cupboard. I require a piece of timber 2185 x 500/600 wide x 20 (or so) thickness. Has anyone got some suggestions?

Community manager's note: Check out How to build a portable workbench for expert advice.

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @RTDavis. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about workbench tops.

If you are happy with a softwood top, the ECOply 2400 x 1200 x 19mm CD Structural Plywood would be functional and close to your required thickness. If you could drop the thickness down to 17mm, you could go with Carter Holt Harvey FORMrite 2400 x 1200mm 17mm F14 Formply. The benefit would be you'll get a quite hard finish on the formply compared to the plywood.

If you wanted a hardwood top, the Selex 2200x600x26mm Beech Laminated Worktop Panel and 2200 x 600 x 26mm Acacia Solid Oiled Hardwood Project Panel could be options.

Let me mention some members that have built their own workbenches @r23on, @JoeAzza, @tom_builds, @Razzer, @Baggs, @WoodenGregsWood, @Tara86 and @Nikki7 to see if they have some recommendations.

Please let me know if you have questions.

Mitchell

Razzer

@RTDavis

Sorry for the delay. All work and no play.

I used formply on mine. Easier to clean mess from it and nothing sticks to it. I will be putting a a few builds up soon, just trying to finish them. They are a cupboard workbench and a mobile work bench. They may give you so ideas.

JDE

@RTDavis

I recently re did the top of my bench. I used a sheet of AraucoPly 2250x600x30mm bx deco plywood from Bunnings $62 all you would have to do is trim the end or let hang over and paint it if you want to harden it. I like it because its solid has a bit of weight and was the right size for me. JDE

MitchellMc

It's great to see both @Razzer and @JDE make some helpful suggestions @RTDavis.

Have you had any luck deciding on what material you'll use?

Mitchell

golfer50

I have a similar question, but a little more specific. I have a pair of sawhorses - https://www.bunnings.com.au/toughbuilt-2-piece-sawhorse-and-jobsite-table_p5820831 which also double as a jobsite table with a couple of bits of 2 x 4. I'm trying to figure out what to use for the table. The gap between the two positions for the 2x4s is about 1000mm so I need something at least that deep. It's gotta be reasonably sturdy/thick but, it can't be too heavy. Any suggestions?

EricL

Hi @golfer50

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's wonderful to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about what workbench to use.

Based on the conditions you've laid out, I recommend using the 2200 x 600 x 26mm Acacia Solid Oiled Hardwood Project Panel. I suggest pre-drilling the benchtops and using a cup head bolt and butterfly nut to keep the benchtops attached to the 2x4's while in use. Once you're done for the day, the bolt can be released and the workbench can be stored safely.

The benchtop meets some of the conditions you've stated. It is sturdy enough for the worksite at 26mm and can take a bit of weight. It's light enough that you can still carry it to and from your vehicle without needing assistance. If cut in half and joined together to provide more depth, it will provide you with a working space of 1200mm x 1100mm. Which meets your size requirements. Please note that like all timber benchtops, I suggest sealing it with your choice of oil or varnish to protect it from moisture damage.

I've placed an image below on what it might look like, please tell me if you had another configuration in mind.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

weedoman

What did you draw that in? Looks great!

EricL

Hello @weedoman

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank you for joining the discussion.

I'm using 3D software called Sketchup, it does have a bit of a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to draw simple to complex illustrations in no time. My colleague @MitchellMc uses a much more user-friendly version called Tinkercad. But don't let my description fool you, it is still capable of making complex illustrations at a much faster pace.

If you wish to have a kitchen or laundry plan drawn out, please let me know. I'll be more than happy to do the illustration for you.

Eric

MikeTNZ

Hi @RTDavis,

You need to fix your workbench to a wall, not a cupboard.

It needs to be solidly attached to structural elements, because you do not want the whole thing to move at all, especially when using a saw or chisels, if you are using that sort of thing.

Best way to do this is get some angle section steel, drill some holes in it to fix it to the studs in the wall behind your bench, you can then screw it to the wall over 4-5 studs, this will give you a really strong fixing.

Up to you, but you could also fit some angle section to the feet of your bench and fit some Dyna-bolts to the floor, just to stop any forward movement.

If you require any further advice, please by all means, let us know.

Cheers,

Mike T.

MikeTNZ

Hi @RTDavis,

I built my workbench from Pine, it is 3500mm long x 600mm wide x 990mm above the floor

I then topped it with 18mm plywood and put an Aluminium capping over the front of it to stop small screws from being lost over the edge.

That used to happen more times than I used to think about, I work with miniscule parts as a sometimes Electronics Technician.

Admittedly, I built the frame and then the benchtop.

barydos

Hi @EricL, I know this is an old post, but thought I'd ask the question.

> I suggest pre-drilling the benchtops and using a cup head bolt and butterfly nut to keep the benchtops attached to the 2x4's while in use.

How exactly are the bolt and nut secured on the benchtop/2x4's? I'm thinking of possibly having this type of temporary sawhorse workbench but having trouble imagining how it's supposed to be secured.

EricL

Hello @barydos

If you are using the 2x4 with the 4' side in a horizontal position, it will be easier to drill through and anchor the benchtop using a cup head bolt. I've placed a sample sketch to give you an idea of how it can be done. I recommend putting one in each corner so that it is fully secure. Make sure to countersink the benchtop so that the hup head sits below the benchtop surface.

Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working with timber.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

sbaipas

Hi,

Just a further iteration on this thread please..

Can the SpecRite 1800 x 1200mm 17mm Formply F17 be considered also as i have a steel frame (164cm x 72cm), can this be cut to size pre-sale by Bunnings, with the off-cuts supplied? . I was looking at the design that provides the channel length-wise and was considering using the off-cuts. Would you recommend using the off-cuts? (using bolts to secure them in-place) or would a second type of bench-top be recommended, in paticular because i intend to add a bench-top a vice?

Is there a delivery option?

Thank you very much for your advice.

Regards.

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @sbaipas. It's marvellous to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about creating a benchtop.

Formply would be a suitable top for a workbench. It's durable and has an impact-resistant surface. We do offer a cutting service on formply, and delivery can also be arranged. Using a single piece of formply for your benchtop would be best. The team can cut your 165 x 72cm benchtop from a single piece of 180 x 120cm formply.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

sbaipas

Thankyou, that's really appreciated!.

MitchellMc

No problems, @sbaipas. Keep us updated on your project, as we'll be keen to see your results.

Mitchell

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