Replacing a low-level deck

Hi,

I'm in the process of planning to re-do our decking. The first part of the project is the front porch which is a 2,64 x 2.46 area.

This couples with a bigger project our back alfresco deck which is about an 82 square meter area that needs to be redone.

Basically, because of that, I'm looking at the Ecodeck 137 x22 x 5.4 long so I'd want the front porch the same as the back alfresco.

and using the link provided on the Bunnings website to calculate a deck for the front porch I come up with this: see image

Would this include the substructure materials and what I'd need for the substructure?

What are all the materials I'd need for the substructure and how much?

Are there any additional materials like decking tape, wood sealants, special fasteners into the wall that I'll need and how much?

And finally, if I do this in a staged approach, front porch first and then alfresco would I be able to get the same decking colour style, shade at a later date or would be better to get all the decking boards for both projects at the same time or as I have been told I might not be able to get the same boards at a later date?
And then the fascia boards as the decking boards are wider, I imagine that they will have to be cut to the correct width but that may involve a bit of a taper as the ground isn't exactly level, so what would be the best way to go about this so that I get a nice finish without any gaps to the ground?

Thank you in advance.

Darren

Hi,

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Decking and Paving

Building and Construction

Comments

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @darrenh. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your questions about deck construction.

The decking calculator only gives you the materials for the decking needed over the structure. The materials for the structure are not included. You'll need to plan out how you want to construct the structure before determining the cost of it. Since you are working with an existing deck, have you had a look to see how it was constructed? That would give you a good indication of how to build the new one.

There will be a variety of materials needed to build the structure. They could include joist hangers, pedestal feet, frame and joist fixing screws, angle brackets and Dynabolts.

I don't think you'll run into issues with boards becoming unavailable unless you're planning on waiting a year or more before ordering the second lot. A team member in-store can check with EkoDeck when you're placing your order to ensure there won't be any issues.

The best way to cut the bottom board on an angle would be to place it up against the completed deck and mark a line following the top of the deck on it. You can cut along this line and then flip it over, and that cut will match the grounds' fall.

If you haven't already read through it, please check out @Adam_W's guide to How to build a low-level deck.

Once you've had a look at the current structure and drawn up a sketch of how you'll lay the new one out, we can have a look at what costs would be involved for materials.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

darrenh

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/15636#Comment_15636

Hi Mitchell

Thank you so much for such a detailed reply. And appreciate you having a look at what costs would be involved, so I will definitely send through a sketch of how I'm going to lay the new one as soon as I've looked at the current structure.

Thank you

Darren

darrenh

Update on Deck progress:

I've played around in photoshop designing the deck and tried to get it to scale as best I could and I think it's quite accurate.

This has helped me calculate the materials needed down to how each board will be cut and what will be left.

I've gone with the Ekodeck+ Designer Series Riverbank Red colour

Placed my order yesterday along with H3 90x45 structural beams for the substructure - Hopefully delivery early next week and then I'll be ripping up the existing deck and see what's there and then get whatever other materials I need like post supports if the existing ones are no good.

I'll be updating this post as I progress and any suggestions or tips anyone might have is most welcome.

Thank you

Darren

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/15847#Comment_15847

Looking forward to seeing progress soon @darrenh. Please share regular updates and let us know if you need a hand with anything.

Jason

darrenh

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/70525#Comment_70525

Update:

Removed the existing deck What I found the substructure was quite rotten which I will rebuild, which brings me to a question.

In order to protect the substructure is it a good idea to use something like an In-Ground Timber Protector - I'm thinking of painting that over the timber and then using Joist & bearer Protection G Tape on the top of the substructure?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/98445#Comment_98445

Hello @darrenh

Thank you so much for posting that update. You're absolutely right, some of those timber frames have seen better days. Any extra protection you can provide for the frame is always a plus. Using paint or specially designed coatings will add an extra layer of protection for the deck against the weather. Using Consolidated Alloys 50mm x 20m Bearer Protector G-Tape is another layer of protection you can definitely use.

I subscribe to over-engineering myself when building projects. It may seem overkill at the time but you can bet the finished product will last a long time. These extra protections you're thinking of putting on will provide extra years of service for your deck. We look forward to your next update.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

darrenh

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/115962#Comment_115962

Hi Eric

Much appreciate your feedback and confirming what I'm thinking and I'll post the next update as it happens

Thank you

Darren

darrenh

Finally got the deck complete and I am quite happy with the end result. There were a few challenges and lessons learnt along the way. Houses aren't as square as they look well at least that is what I found with this front area. I'd stay this was almost a double build, as I initially started from the wall working to the outside but didn't quite like having the ripped piece at the end so I restarted from the edge - wasn't too much of a big deal as most of the boards were already cut to size with only 2 having to be re-cut to accommodate the pillars.

Thank you, everyone, for their input and encouragement.

Darren

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/16490#Comment_16490

Hello @darrenh

Thank you so much for sharing your re-built deck. Looking at that photo you posted it is definitely a remodeling masterpiece. It looks professionally remade and those Ekodeck panels will last a long time. It just makes a world of difference and uplifts everything at the front entrance. What were some of the lessons you picked up from this D.I.Y. rebuild? Would you have any tips or advice for those members who are thinking about undertaking a similar project? Any information you can share would be much appreciated.

Again, thank you for sharing your deck re-build, we look forward to seeing your project.

Eric

darrenh

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/70828#Comment_70828

Hi Eric,

Thank you for the feedback much appreciated. I think my biggest "mistake" and that may just be a matter of opinion was starting at the wrong end, but it was also a blessing in disguise as I'll explain further on.

The other issue I had was the two edge boards because the pillars were in the way to slide them onto the C clips, it proved quite a challenge to fit.

What I ended up doing was cutting a piece out of the bottom, just off from where I measured the C-clip would go and then it was just a matter of placing the boards down and sliding them across rather than back, which was a but of a struggle but I did get them on.
One of the important things I did was measure, measure, measure, I must have measured something half a dozen times before cutting.
There were a few close calls where I measured then marked it gone back and measured again and then realising that I've missed reading the tape and would have taken more off than I should have.
All this measuring took a lot longer but I think it saved me a lot of unnecessary cuts and waste.

I also to used an old piece of timber deck board as a template and cut it to the exact length to check that the length for the first board is the same as the last board and basically I had the frame parallel.
I then used that to set up a jig like table that had a stopper for that length at the end and that way I could easily just push the boards up against the stopper, naturally check it again and cut getting all the lengths the same.

The other bit of advice would be to try to plan the whole workflow out first, I realised and another reason why I changed where I started from what that I hadn't fastened the back end of the front edge board, only the C-clips in the front were holding it and I had already put a few boards down and couldn't get between them to fasten the edge board down at the back, The alternative would have been to screw it down from the top which I didn't want to do.
So not being happy with where I started and now the problem of not being able to fasten the edge board was enough for me to un-do the boards and start from the other end, fastening the edge board down first this time.

I think also have a work belt or somewhere to ALWAYS place your smaller tools like marking pencil, drill and screw bits angel rulers etc. I found I was just dumping them down on the edge of the Pillars on the saw bench, the table in the garage or just on the ground only to aimless search for something 10 minutes later. That got annoying sometimes.. "where the &^@&@^#%&@! did I put that drill !!" 🙂 But it all worked out in the end.

Thank you

gannugood

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/16490#Comment_16490

Looks amazing @darrenh. I cannot agree more on the comment about houses not being square. I have burnt my fingers making the assumption things are going to be square. I now measure every side, every angle, transfer it to paper and then re-measure again. This is something the construction industy really needs to think about. But, I also think this is likely to affect only a very small proportion of the population, so why bother!!!

Child Item