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What to do about this gate's wood rot?

There is some wood rot at the bottom of this gate. Should I replace a piece of it or go with a whole new gate? Build from scratch or can U get a gate made to measure for a reasonable price?

Maybe there are some upgrades I could think about if I'm putting in a new on like mounting a wifi camera inside🙂

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Jason

Hi @Bluetooth

Let me tag some helpful members in @Tara86, @Brad, @tom_builds and @HandyAndy to see how they would approach this repair or replacement project.

I'm sure our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert in @EricL will also be happy to share his thoughts as soon as possible. Many thanks for your patience in the meantime.

Jason

HandyAndy

thanks @Jason,

Hi @Bluetooth, to me it looks like there could be rot elsewhere in the gate also, although it's hard to tell from the picture alone. So i think if you were to replace the bottom timber, you might need to replace additional later, however, replacing all the rotted pieces would be nearly a full rebuild.

I don't think getting someone to make a new gate for you would be too expensive, however it all depends on what you want.

you could definitely incorporate a wifi camera/doorbell in to the gate (alot of them can be wireless).

could you post some additional images of the fencing either side? this will help with suggesting some design options if it comes to that.
also, does the gate open on to a footpath or a laneway? do you need it to keep pets/kids in the yard?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/17156#Comment_17156

Hi @Bluetooth

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @HandyAndy. I suggest examining the gate and assessing how many pieces need to be replaced. Do you have the necessary tools to disassemble the gate and replace the timber parts? If you do, then it would be a worthwhile D.I.Y. project. You would need to remove the gate from its hinges and take it apart so that you can assess whether it needs to be replaced or not. However, if you feel this is outside your current scope of experience, I suggest engaging the services of a professional handyman to re-build your gate.

I recommend using exterior-rated timber like H3 or LOSP to replace the damaged ones on your gate.

If you have any other questions, please let us know.

Eric

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/17156#Comment_17156

Hi @HandyAndy , thanks for the response. I'm not looking for a handyman to come and custom build, I was more thinking that it might be the sort of thing that one could measure up and then order it from a factory?

The fence keeps my small dog inside, and it opens onto a footpath on a council strip. I'll try to post more shots in the coming days.

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/71183#Comment_71183

Thank you for the feedback.

I do not think it is outside my scope.

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/17156#Comment_17156

@HandyAndy @Jason @EricL The gate has continued to rot, and its beyond repair now, in my opinion. I found and bought this product from my local bunnings yesterday, which set will work well. I brought it home so that I could read the instructions, and see what else i needed. I got the coach-screws (8m x 75mm) to secure to the posts, and bought some merbau screening pickets which I'll cut to size. The instructions say to use metal self tapping screws to attach the pickets - would you have an idea about which ones would work best? The product is pre primed and I plan to use outdoor blue paint to match the rest of the fence. Hopefully I'll get it done in the next couple of weeks. Maybe a top railing would also look, good, but I'm not sure how to approach that.

HandyAndy

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/72049#Comment_72049

great job @Bluetooth i have the same gate myself!

it will look great once you're done, without seeing the rest of your frontage i can't advise whether a top railing would look good, but definitely will be easy enough to achieve in my opinion. would you put a bottom rail also?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/72049#Comment_72049

Hello @Bluetooth,

I suggest using Zenith 10G x 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Metal Screw - 50 Pack. I recommend positioning the Merbau panels on the gate frame first before screwing them in. This will allow you to optimize the gap between panels and you get a well-balanced layout. It's always a good idea to countersink and drill pilot holes in the timber for ease of installation. I suggest using P&N 4 Piece Quickbit Pilot Drill / Countersink Bit Set. To keep your installation precise, I propose using Craftright 300mm 2 Piece Quick Action Clamp.

I'm afraid the steel frame does not have any provision for a top rail. One way to attach a rail at the top would be to screw another timber piece at the back of the top panels and screw on to that to hold the top rail.

Let me call on our experienced members @tom_builds, @ProjectPete, and @TedBear for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99366#Comment_99366

This picture gives an idea of what the rest of the fence design looks like. Probably some sort of top rail would look good. Are they sold at Bunnings?

Here some more of the decay is visible.

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99370#Comment_99370

Thanks for your suggestions Eric. The countersink drill bit looks perfect for the job. 👍

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/116488#Comment_116488

We have this rebated handrail that you could use @Bluetooth. Bit of a long length for your project, though. Are you going to paint the Merbau, or were you looking for some Merbau timber to construct the top rail out of as well? If you had a router, you could potentially cut a 19mm channel down the centre of a 42 x 28mm 2.7m FJ Pre Oiled Merbau Screening and use it as a capping piece.

Mitchell

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126292#Comment_126292

Unfortunately I don't have a router.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132844#Comment_132844

Without a router, you could create a capping by joining three pieces of timber @Bluetooth. Likely only an option if you plan to paint the timber, though.

Mitchell

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136883#Comment_136883

Yes, that looks brilliant. Thank you @MitchellMc

I'll let you know how it goes!

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136883#Comment_136883

The project is coming along and I have got the tpckets primed and attached to the adjustable gate frame. The railing pieces are primed and ready to be attached.

For the countersunk screws should I fill them with some kind of gap filler or Wood fill? Or just paint over them?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139647#Comment_139647

Looking great @Bluetooth!

It depends on what level of finish you're going for. Since your gate is a bit of a feature and everyone will see it when entering the property, I'd take the time to fill the screw holes. You can use Poly 450g Exterior Timber Filler.

Please keep us updated.

Mitchell

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141531#Comment_141531

First coat of paint after filling screw holes and sanding and priming.

Finished project inside

And outside .

I'm pleased with how it turned out. Thanked for all the help and support!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142944#Comment_142944

Hello @Bluetooth

Thank you so much for posting those photo updates. Your gate has come out looking fantastic. It looks very sturdy and blends in so well with your fence. I'm glad we were able to help, I'm sure @MitchellMc and @HandyAndy will be pleased to see the results. I'm sure our members who are in the same situation will find your project very helpful.

Again, thank you for sharing your gate rebuilding project.

Eric

HandyAndy

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142944#Comment_142944

mate!!! looks awesome! well done!!!

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143931#Comment_143931

Disaster! The merbau has leeched through my paint job! I primed and painted 2coats, so thought I'd be okay. What should I have some differently?

And now, should I just put on another coat or will it happen again?

Thanks!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144700#Comment_144700

Hello @Bluetooth

I'm sorry to hear that you've tannin staining pushing through your paint. I suggest using Zinsser 1L Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Undercoat Primer Sealer Stain Blocker. Sand the timber gate lightly and wipe it off with a damp cloth to remove all the dust and debris. Put a minimum of two coats of the Zinsser primer. Please make sure that the first coat is totally dry before putting on the second coat. Wait for the primer to fully cure and then paint it with the regular paint you used on your fence.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Bluetooth

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145264#Comment_145264

The latch on my gate has broken off. It was secured with two metal screws as can be seen in the picture. As you can imagine the metal screws do not hold that well now that they've sort of stripped the holes. Would anyone have any ideas on our I could secure this latch so that it will not come off again?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145739#Comment_145739

Hi @Bluetooth,

Typically those metal self-tappers would hold quite securely, so I'm surprised they've come out. Do you think you might have over-tightened them and partially stripped out the hole when installing them? It's important not to over-tighten and only snug them up tight. Also, did you use their self-tapping feature or pre-drill the holes for them?

I'd suggest your best options would be to move the latch's location, switch from self-tappers to bolts, or, if you knew anyone with a welder, wielding the latch to the steel gate would be the most secure fix.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

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