Recommendations for secateurs and a reliable electric hedge trimmer needed please

Annette

Yesterday our electric hedge trimmer packed it in so I wondered if any Workshoppers have recommendations for one that will stand the test of time. We mainly use it on our photinia robusta hedges and other light limbed bushes around the garden. 

Also the blade on a pair of secateurs broke yesterday after cutting a branch which was only about 1cm in thickness. The secateurs were only 6 months old (with only light use) so it would be greatly appreciated if anyone can suggest a quality pair of secateurs that won't fall apart at the drop of a hat. I prefer secateurs without the exposed spring but am open to suggestions.

Andy_Mann

@Annette, I just looked up your Photinia Robusta, & if left unattended, they grow to 6m high, & to 3m wide. To me, that means they'll need heavy cutting back from time to time to keep them to a manageable size.

We don't have hedges, but we live in an established older area & I've observed the hedge trimmer syndrome, where hedges grow far wider than (perhaps) planned, encroaching over half of public footpaths.

My reasoning that they grow too wide, is that the gardeners just tickle the outer foliage with hedge trimmers, avoiding the heavier growth is too woody for the trimmers to handle.

If I were your hired gardener, I'd rock up armed with a good platform ladder, a quality pruning saw, a quality pair of  loppers, secateurs & a garden rake.

One thing to note, is that none on that list is powered, cord or cordless, but you'll be the envy of the neighbourhood with your beautifully shaped, young looking & healthy hedge.

We planted natives (zonks ago) that've grown faaar larger than the label suggested, near lawns & pathways, so cutting back is a must. My approach has been to decide the ultimate boundary, then reach into the shrub armed with secateurs, & cut anything that's the size (or more) of my index finger, at elbow reach from the desired boundary. I do that for the whole perimeter around the shrub to maintain symetry/balance/shape. Then I feel for anything stiff/tough (chopstick sized) 30cm from the desired extremity & remove them too, no questions asked.

At that stage it's looking pretty ratty, with foliage still beyond the desired perimeter, but it's time to look for any branches that're growing across/through/interfering with other branches. Decide which to keep, then remove the offender, it has to go, otherwise the wounds can bring disease to the shrub.

Last but not least, is the dainty stuff. Any soft foliage at the desired boundary stays, but anything twiggy goes.

This may seem shrub-centric method, but a hedge will thrive & remain controllable too. What happens, is that the extra air & light stimulates new shoots within the shrub/hedge, & you'll be blown away by how young & vital it will look.

The platform ladder is great for extended high level work, as you have a more comfortable area to stand on, & far more area that you can cover from that one ladder location.

My perspective on life, is that with age, things get harder to do, & unfortunately they'll progressively get harder, so investing in quality tools extends the pleasure in what you enjoy.

Tool maintenance is also vitally important, thoroughly clean/oil them regularly & sharpening them as needed, it'll extend their ease of use, & reward you for years to come.

My garden tool supplier of choice:    

www.forestrytools.com.au/

They only sell professional quality tools, which means all replacement parts are stocked, which avoids the bin it regularly rubbish that makes up the bulk of the retail market.

They also cater for lefthanders, & different hand sizes, & their communications/advice is second to none. As an example, I cut through a 50 year old almond tree trunk with a $70 handsaw that they recommended, it worked a treat, & they also stock all replacement parts for it too.

Hope this helps.