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Loose edging on vertical cladding boards

hi there,

first post so not sure if this is the type of questions that are ok to ask here. We bought this house recently from a local builder. House seems well built. Only small issue we found is that the edging that was applied to the vertical boards on the outside on some sections of the house is going loose. It seems to be made of some type of PVC but does not seem to be attached with nails or screws. When it rains, it seems to pool water and in some sections the paint seems to be bubbling up. Initially, we were able to just push the edging back in but with time and change in weather from hot to cold and rain and back to hot, it’s becoming loose permanently. We sent a couple of messages to the builder but he stopped responding to our messages. We rented the house for a few months before moving in so the initial warranty he offered for small fixes passed and he doesn’t seem to want to be involved any more.

i was hoping for someone that knows what that edging might be made of to share some ideas on how to permanently re-attach It and to know if the design of that edging that seems to collect water might be an issue long term and maybe we need to find a different solution like removing the edging and just painting to match the boards. The lower sections of the house do not have the edging so not sure if it is just there for aesthetic reasons.

i attached a couple of photos of where the edging is becoming permanently loose.

thanks!

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Comments

wooshka

Hi @totocol , thanks for posting on here , can you post some pics of a bit further away, with some arrows pointing to the area of concern please so we can understand what you are seeing

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/18266#Comment_18266

Thanks a lot for the reply. Not sure if this shot is better but I can upload more if needed. I have circled the spots where the edging is becoming loose.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/18266#Comment_18266

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @totocol. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about cladding edging.

It's great to see @wooshka is on the case. Many thanks for your additional image, as it adds context. Also, we're here to help with any questions you have, and this one is perfectly fine. 👍

It appears to be just a C-channel pushed onto the bottom edge. If it is not secured correctly, it will collect water, which could be an issue if it is timber cladding. I'd suggest the best approach would be to remove it and clean out any adhesive residue stuck within it. Next, apply a liberal bead of Sikaflex 11FC into the channel and then stick it back into place. You want enough sealant in the channel that a small amount is pushed out and up the front face of the cladding board. You'll then come along and smooth out the glue on the transition between the cladding and the channel. The idea is that you want water to run down the cladding and over the channel instead of getting inside it. We need to seal the channel against the cladding effectively.

I've put a rendering together below to illustrate this method.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/71780#Comment_71780

Thanks for much for the quick reply.
a couple of questions:

- what would you recommend to remove the glue used before?
- what would you use to smooth the glue after application? Should this be done once the sealant has dried or while still moist?

thanks a lot!

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/99189#Comment_99189

@totocol,

Hopefully, the glue used can be easily removed from the channel by hand or cut out with a Stanley knife. Don't worry too much if you can't remove it all. We just need enough room inside the channel for the Sikaflex. Smooth the glue immediately after pushing the channel onto the cladding. If you wear a latex glove, you can smooth it off with your finger or use a paddle pop stick.

Mitchell

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/116387#Comment_116387

Thanks so much. I’ve removed one to confirm the assessment and that the sealant you recommend would by the best so I can go to my local Bunnings this week to get what I need. See photos attached. I cannot see any glue so I’m not sure how they initially attached it,

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126234#Comment_126234

It certainly looks like only a minimal amount of adhesive was used there @totocol. Since it's an L-angle instead of a C-channel, you can run your bead of Sikaflex on the interior corner of the angle and then push it into position.

Mitchell

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/132806#Comment_132806

Thanks @MitchellMc

One final question. It’s actually J Beads but looks like an L one in the photo. Do the J beads have any function beyond aesthetics? I am wondering if I’m better off painting the bottom of the boards since even with a good amount of sealant it seems like there would be sole pockets where water could still pool. Or if I keep the J Beads, how could I feel the little pockets in the little holes between the two boards where the beads will create a small gap which was collecting water in the past? Will the sealant be enough to fill the gaps or do I need to use a gap filler after the sealant has dried out?

thanks!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/136857#Comment_136857

Hello @totocol

That is a very fine line you're crossing. Is the "J" bead just for show or does it actually serve a purpose? If it covers the end of the cladding and prevents it from getting waterlogged then it should be put back on. Since it was poorly installed, it instead became a point where the water settled.

Either way, your goal is to protect the edge of the cladding. Whether you paint it or cover it with the bead. If you install it diligently with a uniform amount of adhesive then you shouldn't get any pockets of water in the bead. But if you miss one then that will be the point where the water will start to pool.

However, if you paint it, the protection will only last as long as the paint covers it. Whichever way you go, just keep in mind to inspect the cladding every six months to make sure that you're not getting any water damage on the cladding.

Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations on the exterior beading.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139627#Comment_139627

Thanks so much for the contribution @EricL - this feels like a fantastic community!

it looks like removing the beading on one side of the house will be much harder so I might experiment with painting one’ side and re attaching the J Beads on the other side. It does look like one side was already having a bit of damage so my plan is to let it dry, lightly sand and then add an outdoor primer before re attaching the beading. Does that sound like a good plan?

thanks again. I’m attaching some photos on some boats that look like they got a bit of damage from the moisture

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141520#Comment_141520

That sounds like a plan @totocol.

Just remember, if you sand and then prime, you still need to paint. The paint is the sealing layer, not the primer.

If you feel that you'll have difficulty filling the grooves with sealant and are happy with the look when the trims are removed, then I'd recommend leaving it off and just painting the edges. The area will freely drain without the moulding and won't capture water.

Mitchell

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142935#Comment_142935

Thanks @MitchellMc

if the sealant doesn’t fully cover the grooves, could I use an exterior gap filler like the one below to fill those final gaps?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/_p1230161?referrer=RetailApp&utm_source=Bunnings&utm_medium=ProductFinder&utm_campaign=BuyThisProductOnline

thanks!

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143919#Comment_143919

I'd recommend sticking with the Sikaflex product to cover/fill the grooves @totocol. You can go along the front edge and squeeze a small bead/dot of the 11FC into each groove at the bottom. Apply 11FC into the corner of your capping. Push the capping on and wipe off any excess that pushes out the grooves. If there is still a gap in the grooved sections, fill it with more 11FC. The 11FC is superior to the gap filler but provides the same function of filling gaps and sealing.

Mitchell

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144689#Comment_144689

Thanks @MitchellMc

That makes sense

totocol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144689#Comment_144689

Thanks everyone for the feedback so far. I’ve finished removing all the J Beads. As expected, 95% of the boards were already showing signs of initial damage due to humidity.

only one bead out of all 20 or so was attached properly so I caused a bit of damage to the board it was attached to.
i will use a timber filler like the one below to patch it and paint on top too.

now to wait for the rain to stop!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/product_p1210571?referrer=RetailApp&utm_source=Bunnings&utm_medium=ProductFinder&utm_campaign=BuyThisProductOnline

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