nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

How to support Ekodeck board near termite inspection zone?

LisaAnne

Hi, I’m building my first ever deck and have minimal carpentry experience. I’m using 90x45mm H3 timber on Builders Edge pedestals. At the moment the frame is just sitting in place while I work things out, and I’ll be laying and compacting crusher dust underneath.

I need some guidance on the build, especially along the house where there is a termite inspection zone (exposed slab edge under the weep holes).

The Ekodeck boards will run left to right, with no picture frame.

What’s the best way to support the final board closest to the house (front door) without fixing into or covering the termite inspection zone?

Can I add a small secondary support frame fixed back to the main bearer to carry that last board, or is there a better way to do this properly?

Please note there will be gaps between the termite barrier, the timber frame, and the Ekodeck boards above.

Ai generated inspo pic of finished deck and steps

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Decking and Paving

Building and Construction

Accepted answers

All comments

JacobZ

Hi @LisaAnne,

Welcome, it is brilliant to see you make your first post on the Workshop community and it is exciting to see you have a decking project in the works.

My suggestion is to raise the framing up so that its bottom edge sits above the termite barrier. This can be done by raising the height of the pedestals. You can then remove the bearer at the end of the joists, sit the pedestals about 200mm out from the wall on every joist and extend the joists over the termite barrier up to the wall. You can then add blocking between the joists to stiffen things up.

As long as the pedestals are still spaced within 1400mm of each other as per the joist span tables, there is no real need for a bearer at the end of the joists. It is also perfectly acceptable to have a slight cantilever where the joists run past your pedestals as long as it is kept to a minimum. You can then simply fix your decking boards to the joists which run over the top of the termite inspection area.

If inspection is required, you would simply remove the decking board closest to the door. It would be covered only by the width of these joists, which unfortunately, isn't really avoidable if you'd like the decking to run up to the door.

Let me know what you think and if you require further guidance or explanation, please let me know.

Jacob

LisaAnne

Hi Jacob, thank you so much for your prompt and clear response. I've just tried lifting the joist over the termite barrier and unfortunately there’s not enough clearance.

I've attached a photo showing exactly what's happening-I’m just holding the timber so it’s slightly over and not touching the barrier so you can see.

When the joist floats over the barrier it sits right at the bottom of the weep hole & isn't enough clearance. It’s 90mm from top of termite barrier to bottom of weep hole. My joist is 90mm tall. So floating over the barrier puts the joist top right at weep hole level before even adding the 23mm board thickness.

I'm wondering if there are two possible solutions:

Small plastic packers sitting on the flat section of the termite barrier (about 60-70mm wide flat top) to support the last board edge — as plastic wouldn't create a termite pathway. The last board would then be face screwed for easy inspection access.
Or what if I turn the timber on its side so the 90mm face is facing UP and 45mm is the height? This would lower the joist top by 45mm and may give me the clearance I need under the weep hole.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, you've been so helpful already!

JacobZ

Hi @LisaAnne,

I would just set the joists at a height that does not interfere with your weep holes, then notch out the underside of the joist so it clears the termite barrier. Based on the height you've mentioned, you'd just need to take around 30mm from the bottom of the framing to make the clearance. You could then sit some packers on the termite barrier as additional support for the framing, but this wouldn't be 100% necessary.

For the two outer joists, I would just sit them about 50mm in from the wall, so they are not in contact with the termite barrier. As the boards are running left to right, they would still be supported over the vast majority of their width and 50mm or so of overhang is negligible due to the orientation. As long as the decking boards clear the top of the termite barrier, then there should be no issues.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

LisaAnne

Jacob, that makes perfect sense and is so much simpler than I was making it! Notching the bottom of the joists to clear the barrier and sitting the outer two joists 50mm in from the wall is a clean solution I can absolutely do. Thank you so much for your patience and expertise, I can finally get started!

Thank you again, I’ll pop back with progress photos in case it helps other beginners on a similar journey!

JacobZ

That's fantastic to hear @LisaAnne.

I'm glad I could help and I can't wait to see how you get on. I'm sure your deck is going to look magnificent.

If you run into any other questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

LisaAnne

Hi Jacob, thanks again for your help previously with the deck framing ideas. I’ve decided I definitely want to do a picture frame now around the Ekodeck boards because it works much better with my board lengths and reduces wastage significantly.

I’m still planning to notch the front joists slightly so they can cantilever over the front termite barrier without touching it, which seems straightforward enough.

The part I’m now stuck on is the SIDE termite barriers beside the house where the picture frame boards will run parallel with the joists. Because the termite barrier is around 100mm wide I’m trying to work out the best way to support those side picture frame boards.

A couple options I’ve been considering are:

A shallow “joist ladder” setup using 70x35 timber laid flat (35mm height) spanning over the termite barrier and tied back into the main bearer/joists.

Using 90x45 laid flat (45mm height) over the termite barrier, supported by mini pedestals on the concrete barrier, then fixing that into low 90x90 concreted posts just outside the barrier, with the main upright bearer fixed on the other side of those posts.

Do either of those sound reasonable to you, or is there a cleaner/simpler way you’d approach supporting side picture frame boards in this low-profile situation?

JacobZ

Hi @LisaAnne,

My suggestion would be to simply bolt a 90x45 to the outside joists on its flat so that it clears the termite barrier.

You could use a https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-m10-x-150mm-hot-dip-galvanised-cup-head-bolts-nuts-each_p2443987 every 600mm along the full length of the joist to support the additional framing which would then support the decking board.

This would solidly attach the additional timber to the joist and would not require any additional pedestals or complex framing.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

LisaAnne

Thank you Jacob, this suggestion actually makes a lot of sense.

I’ve just done a quick mock-up using a flat 90x45 attached to the outside of one off cut joist with screws and packing underneath with mini pedestals sitting on top of the concrete termite barrier. It seems like this may be the solution for supporting the side picture frame boards while still keeping the required clearance from the house and weep holes.

Thank you, I’ll come back with an update.

Child Item