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Hi! I just got my first home and have found the flanges on the lower taps and outlet in the shower are loose, and don't quite cover the holes in the tiles!
From other posts here on Bunnings Community, I think the options are:
A) use some silicone to "glue" the tap handle flanges back to the wall, OR
B) buy some new flanges that are bigger in diameter to ensure the hole is fully covered and then silicone them to the tiles, OR
C) the taps themselves don't turn very smoothly, so perhaps I could just replace them anyway?
Also, I can see that the previous owner (?) has already put a black plastic thing behind the outlet point - this also is not siliconed in place and I don't feel particularly confident about it keeping our water. Perhaps I could change the outlet too?
I am a newbie to repairs, but pretty handy with my hands, so if I have instructions to follow it should work well!
I found this post to start me on my way: https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/How-To/How-to-replace-a-tap-washer/ba-p/158637. And
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @smie. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about bathroom taps.
All of those options you’ve listed are certainly viable. In fact, what you’re seeing isn’t all that unusual. My own shower taps, for instance, have fairly large gaps around the flanges where they meet the tiles. It’s not ideal, but it happens quite often when the fittings don’t sit perfectly flush with the wall.
If the gaps are small, a quick and effective fix is to apply some wet-area silicone around the edges of the flanges. This will seal the area and prevent any water from getting behind the tiles, which is the main concern.
That black plastic piece behind the spout does look like a bit of a makeshift spacer. My suspicion is that the threaded spigot coming out of the wall is too long, so when the spout was screwed on, there was a large gap left behind. It looks like someone’s tried to fill that gap with plastic or possibly electrical tape. If that’s the case, then replacing the outlet might indeed be worthwhile. You may just need to cut the protruding threaded spigot back a little to get a proper fit; it’s not a huge job, just something to be aware of.
If the taps themselves don’t turn smoothly, this could be a good opportunity to replace the entire set. You’ll not only improve functionality but can also give your shower a cleaner, more cohesive look by choosing a matching chrome or white tap set.
Once the new fittings are on, finish up with a neat bead of silicone behind each flange to seal them properly against the tiles. That’ll keep everything tidy and watertight.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
The spigot or threaded copper pipe that sticks out of the wall, is what the spout screws onto @smie. If it were too long, then you could cut it down with a hacksaw. Though if you are not familiar with cutting threaded pipe, you might want to enlist the services of a plumber.
You should always turn your mains water supply off before working on any pipes or taps, and yes, you can follow those instructions..
Mitchell
Hi @MitchellMc, here is my update.
I have removed the tap handles. The spigot is proving tough to undo on the Right side. I've sprayed it with WD40 and will use a tube spanner to get it off. I am concerned however that it may cause damage to the piping underneath?
The tap on the left side has a spindle sunken into the wall. I will use the same technique as the right side.
The centre pipe, where the bath outlet sits does not seem to have a spindle? Also, I am not able to undo the centre flange (however, have not used much force in case I break something). However, if I can undo the nut, perhaps I do not need to take it off?
Previously we planned to shorten the spigot with a hacksaw, but since there is not a spigot, I am now not sure what to do.
Hi @smie,
From what I can see, this is a classic case of a DIY workaround that has made things a lot more complicated. The centre spout assembly has multiple layers: the flexible plastic gasket, a hard plastic spacer, the nut, and then the chrome cover. None of that extra material should really be there, which is why the spout is sitting proud and everything looks awkward.
Here’s how to approach it safely: first remove everything that isn’t original to the tap/spout assembly. Start with the chrome cover, then the hard plastic, then the nut, and finally the flexible plastic piece. Ideally, this should leave you with just a threaded pipe coming straight out of the wall. That threaded pipe is what your spout should screw onto.
Regarding the side taps and spindles, if they are stuck, keep using your WD40 and tube spanner method, but take it slow. The spindles themselves control the water flow, so be careful not to damage them. Once the spindles are out, you can decide whether to replace the taps entirely or just re-seat them with the existing cover plates and a bit of silicone around the edge to seal it.
For the centre spout, once all the excess pieces are removed, you likely won’t need to cut or shorten anything. You can then slide the spout over the threaded pipe and secure it. This should give a clean, secure finish without the complicated stack of DIY parts currently in place.
Mitchell
