I'm after some thoughts/ opinions about newly renovated bathroom in a 1970s unit * Am I correct in thinking a piece of water-stop is missing where tiles meet cavity sliding door? * The floor falls from shower door towards bedroom door (will be carpeted), & water escaping from shower pools near bedroom door. No drain in bathroom floor. Builder said it falls this way so cavity slider door fits over tiles. A water bar installed under shower door. Water sometimes leaks through vertical openings beside door. * Decorative trim on shower hob creates barrier preventing drainage, even though fall on hob is correct. Water drains from small section where tile sits proud of the trim. TIA for advice on whether these are faults, & on possible solutions.

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How to fix drainage in renovated bathroom?

Sunflower1

I'm after some thoughts/ opinions about newly renovated bathroom in a 1970s unit

Am I correct in thinking a piece of water-stop is missing where tiles meet cavity sliding door?
The floor falls from shower door towards bedroom door (will be carpeted), & water escaping from shower pools near bedroom door. No drain in bathroom floor. Builder said it falls this way so cavity slider door fits over tiles. A water bar installed under shower door. Water sometimes leaks through vertical openings beside door.
Decorative trim on shower hob creates barrier preventing drainage, even though fall on hob is correct. Water drains from small section where tile sits proud of the trim.

TIA for advice on whether these are faults, & on possible solutions.

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JacobZ

Hi @Sunflower1,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

Unfortunately, the answer to your questions will be contained in Australian Standard 3740 (Domestic Wet Areas), which I do not have access to.

I'd suggest you contact an independent building inspector to inspect the work and provide a report based on their findings.

Unfortunately, I am not qualified to comment on the validity of the install in terms of the Australian Standards, but I would expect to see a fall away from a non-wet area and a continuous water stop across the full extent of the doorway.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Sunflower1

Thank you Jacob. I was looking into inspections, but quotes were over $900. Will reconsider.

JacobZ

Hi @Sunflower1,

I can say that it doesn't quite look right, but unfortunately, I don't have access to those standards that explain what about it isn't right, if it turns out that it is.

They can be expensive, but they will be invaluable in that they will provide you with evidence based on the Australian Standards that you can use to have these issues rectified.

Apologies that I couldn't be more help.

Jacob

Jason

Let me tag a few other members to see if they can share their thoughts @Sunflower1.

@Nailbag, @chriscam82, @TedBear

Jason

Nailbag

Hi @Sunflower1

These issue appear to be a combination of design and construction faults.

1. No water shouldn't be exiting the shower in the first place. The shower tiles should all fall towards the shower drain. As a safe-guard or need to, a metal trim channel can be siliconed in place to prevent water exiting under the door. If the door gets a lot of water splashes, you could also use a PVC shower door deflector trim. Images of both below.

2. The shower floor should fall to the drain and the bathroom floor should be dead flat if not falling to a central drain used for over-flow/flooded scenarios. The legal requirement for a drain various between states. You can ring your local building authority to check how this applies to you. In any case, there is appears to be a preparation fault in the floor levelling prior to tiling.

Ideally, both cosmetically and practicality wise the tiles should have finished in the bathroom side of the cavity slider. Image below. The comment by the builder that the floor needs to fall this way to fit under the cavity slider is I'm sorry to say ridiculous and completely incorrect. The gap under the door can be adjusted by either adjusting its hanging height up from the carriages the door rolls along (5min job). And/or in the case of not enough adjustment, the door can be trimmed shorter (45min job).

3. The builder needs to rectify all of these issues. However, in doing so correctly and not by quick fixes, the floor tiles need to be lifted and redone. But this will impact the bathrooms waterproofing and possibly triggering the bathroom to essentially be redone.

Do you know if he's a registered builder and part of any building association? I would be contacting them first to get all the facts straight and any support they can offer on your behalf. And have you made final payment as this is something I would be holding back on for now.

Nailbag

Sunflower1

Hi Nailbag,
Thank you for all that info.

Builder is member of HIA and VBA. Unfortunately I made the final payment before learning of the issues.

He installed a water bar across doorway after I said water was exiting shower, which now prevents this as long as not directed toward vertical gaps beside door.

Shower floor and the hob surface fall towards drain. However, metal trim on inner edge of hob creates surface tension that holds water on the hob. While not major structural issue, if I don’t squeegee after showering, my understanding is that water sitting (pooling?) on hob could lead to problems later.

Weirdly, he did mention that he may have to shorten the doors, so not sure why he didn’t take that route.

I’ve also learned that door frames inside bathroom should be hardwood. Fairly certain they’re MDF all through.

Looks like I need to get a report done and decide whether to make it official.

Thank you again

Nailbag

Hi @Sunflower1

Firstly as an FIY you need to @username to tag someone so they know you are replying to them.

Our ensuite shower has a similar issue of not enough fall from a renovation done prior to us buying the home. We have a window squeegee on window suckers that we use to wipe not just the glass but the water towards the drain after showers. I can't see it causing any other serious issues long term than slow draining and/or pooling water leads to faster forming of residue over the shower base area requiring more frequent cleaning especially the grout. A clear waterproof coating over the shower base tiles and grout reduce this effect and make it easier to clean. This is also our scenario after waterproofing failed.

The fall of the floor towards the exit is an error on his part. As I mentioned prior, it is standard practice to adjust the hanging height in some form of any cavity slider. I on occasion have to do this for clients after new carpet or floating floor has been installed. The door is removed prior so the new coverings can be installed. Then the door is re-installed adjusted to the new floor height.

Though I doubt there is a regulation to use hardwood skirts and arch's in a bathroom ,it would be standard practice for any builder to install in a bathroom over MDF. It only takes one tiny spot of unprimed area (especially freshly cut ends) to allow moisture to get in causing the MDF to swell.

I would definitely get a report done and have it recorded with both groups. It will not just Flag his company but maybe needed to initiate immediate or long term warranty claims. Being VBA, tells me you're in Vic (me to). So, unless it's a 2nd story bathroom, I am pretty sure the floor still doesn't require and drain in the floor.

Take lot's of photos and document everything. Especially all conversations with whats said with dates etc from all parties.

Nailbag

Sunflower1

Hi @Nailbag,

Thanks for the newbie tip! And for the bathroom advice. Yes, I’m in Melbs/ Vic.

I also use a squeegee, to prolong the need for cleaning. My main concern is that (I’ve read/heard) pooling/sitting water can compromise grout integrity over time. Particularly if I was to lease the unit and they don't bother to squeegee the hob every time. I plan to spray grout sealant anyway, which will hopefully help.

Good point about having the report for future warranty issues.

A carpenter (here to quote other jobs) told me architraves inside bathroom are legally required to be timber (ideally hardwood, but at least not MDF). I’ll follow up anyway.

Thank you again,

Sunflower1

Nailbag

Good luck and keep us posted @Sunflower1

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