How to reattach shower screen?

[mblewis]

Hi.

Whilst attempting to remove old silicone as part of a resealing project, I have detached my shower screen from the bathroom wall. I suspect I accidentally went to deep with the plastic scraper and severed the adhesive.

Whilst reattaching, I'm also seeking a strategy to reattch the other end where the existing masonry plug has pulled out ofthe wall. I could grout the hole and redrill but, as I currently see it, this will always be a weak point

I'm looking for some help on:

[*] How to reattch the shower screen including methods to mechanically fix.

[*] Methods to repair masonry plugs/holes in walls to permit re-drill and plug.

[*] Can this be redone with a frameless shower screen considering the shape of the hob wall etc.

Labelled photos included to show what I'm contending with! Thanks!

Photo shower shower rail masonry plugPhoto showing where masonry plug has pulled out from wallPhoto of corner shower railPhoto of detached shower screenPhoto of edge of shower screen shower "adhesive"Photo of corner showing showing general shape

[MitchellMc]

Hi @mblewis,

For the loose masonry plug, the simplest and strongest repair is to enlarge the hole slightly and step up to the next plug size. Once you insert a larger plug and match it with the appropriate screw, the fixing will be just as solid as it was originally. Grouting the hole and re drilling tends to create a weak point, so stepping up in size is the more reliable option. If that is a 5mm plug, you might step up to a 7mm plug set.

When you reattach the shower screen, make sure you use fresh silicone where the panel meets the wall. The silicone acts as both a seal and a secondary support, so renewing it is an important part of the reinstall. Once the mechanical fixing is secured, run a clean bead of silicone down the entire edge to lock everything back into position and seal the gap properly.

Regarding the possibility of a frameless screen, most off-the-shelf frameless panels are designed around square or rectangular shower bases. The shape of your hob makes that difficult, so a standard frameless screen would not sit properly. 

Just a reminder to handle the glass carefully. Shower screens can shatter more easily than people expect, so safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves, long sleeves, trousers, and enclosed footwear are all worthwhile while you work.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[mblewis]

Hi @MitchellMc 

Thanks for helping.

The photo of the cavity in the wall doesn't help not having anything to guage size (the hole goes into the veneer brick cavity). It's about 10mm across (photo below). I'm looking for a wall fixing/plug that will cater for the increased hole size and take a "normal" 4mm (approx) screw.

I've cleaned all the old adhesive and silicone from the screen which has revealed three holes in the vertical channel. Additional queries I'm now facing:

• Is it preferable to mechanically fix the channel (and screen) to the tiles/wall (stronger but creates a potential water point into the wall) or reapply fresh adhesive? I'd imagine a health dose of silicone around any holes drilled would be prudent.
• I've heard that channel should not be sealed from the inside, but the outside only. This allows water to drain back into the shower and not get trapped. Would appreciate feedback around this strategy (e.g. best practice?)

Thanks

Matt

[EricL]

Hello @mblewis 

Let's start with fixing that cavity in the wall. I propose filling the hole with Turbo 175ml Builders Bog Flexipack. The purpose of refiling the hole is so that you can redrill into the same spot at the correct size. My best advice is to make sure that the hole is filled to capacity, and no gap is left inside. Allow the bog to fully cure before you drill into it. Since you wish to use a 4mm screw, I suggest using the STAHL Masonry Kit 5mm Drill With 35mm White Wall Plugs. Please note that the builders bog must be drilled with a standard timber drill bit, do not use a masonry bit on its surface.

If the screen was originally fixed with screws, then it would be advisable to use stainless steel screws. Using silicone over the screws and drill points is highly recommended. I don't see sealing from the inside as a negative aspect, but if it hinders the proper drainage of the panel then it would be best just to seal it from the outside. 

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @mblewis 

I like @EricL 's suggestion tho I would try inserting two of smaller green plugs. As long as they are tight in the hole then when the screw goes in it will form a tighter wedge and stop them coming out. It sounds a little dodgy I do admit but has worked for me on occasion

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @mblewis 

Filling the holes for the shower screen rail isn't going to be an easy one as the holes already are larger than the biggest fasteners. Filling it with builders bog even fully cured will pop. It would be better to make the hoe about 60mm x 60mm and fill that with plasterboard and then once cured use Ramset multipurpose fasteners to rester the rod.

• Is it preferable to mechanically fix the channel (and screen) to the tiles/wall (stronger but creates a potential water point into the wall) or reapply fresh adhesive? I'd imagine a health dose of silicone around any holes drilled would be prudent
  No. It only requires the use of a neutral cure translucent silicone as per original. This is standard practice 

• I've heard that channel should not be sealed from the inside, but the outside only. This allows water to drain back into the shower and not get trapped. Would appreciate feedback around this strategy (e.g. best practice?)
  Correct. Again standard practice

Be carefully handling the glass. Any sudden impact can shatter it surprising easily.

Nailbag

[mblewis]

Thanks @EricL / @Dave-1 / @Nailbag 

@Nailbag 

Thanks for the advice. I'm seeking additional clarity around your response to whether to mechanicall fix or use adhesive when reattaching the screen. When you responded "No. It only requires..." were you in support of mechanical fixing or via adhesive? The product recommended is a sealant and, based on the description, is not suitable as an adhesive.

As a sealant I'm considering Sikasil Pool Silicone, SikaSeal Kitchen & Bathroom or SikaSeal-300 (a bit stronger).

Thanks!

[Nailbag]

Apologies @mblewis thats a good pickup I sent the wrong link. I would use The Sika bathroom translucent.

Nailbag

[mblewis]

Hi @MitchellMc / @EricL / @Dave-1 / @Nailbag 

I was able to reattach the supporting cylinder to the wall.

In the interest of sharing should anyone else come across something similiar, I used Ramset Plastic Toggle With Screw. The cylinder covered the hole pretty well and only some plaster repair work should be needed. The rail can now be slid over and fixed with a small 3mm (?) screw in lieu of a rivet (photo below).

Now to look at re-erecting the shower screen, using the rail and newly attached "cylinder bracket" to support the screen.

Hi @Nailbag 

Still a little unclear with the product.

The SikaSeal Kitchen and Bathroom is a advertised as a sealant. Would this also work to act as an adhesive (adhere the screen back onto the tiles) and a sealant (prevent water ingress)? Or would a product like Sikaflex-111 (Stick and Seal) (to stick the shower screen to the tiles) in conjunction with the SikaSeal KnB be appropriate?

Thanks!

[MitchellMc]

Hi @mblewis,

Sealants are designed to seal gaps. What holds the screen in position? Typically, there would be mechanical fixings and/or brackets or channels that are attached to the tiles, and then the screen is held in position by those. So, by itself, a sealant is not enough to safely hold a screen in position. You might need to show and tell us a bit more about how the screen is held in place so we can advise further.

Mitchell