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How to rebuild a shower wall?

I recently had to demolish the shower walls in a my "new" 1970s house and it's 1990's bathroom as water had ingressed behind the grout.

The original wall was composed of 5mm plasterboard, 6 mm fibro concrete and then tile. When. I demolished the wall I noted that the fibro was sitting on top of the flange of the shower pan, and the tiles were laid onto the fibro within the flange. In the photo you can see one wall still has some plaster up because it wasn't damaged like the rest was.

My understanding for the new wall is that the fibro should be laid within the flange as well as the interior wall, but I'm not sure.

For my new wall construction should I go with new plasterboard and fibro or should I just go with 9 mm fibro? Also, should I shim out the studs 5 mm so the new fibro sits in the pan rather than on the pan?

Finally my plan is to use acrylic sheeting for the interior walls stuck to the fibro. How would I tackle the bath enclosure where it shares a wall with the shower?

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @mcol0508. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about shower walls.

I just wanted to start with letting you know there's a risk of asbestos exposure from homes built or renovated before 1990. It's important to determine if asbestos is present by having your home assessed and taking necessary precautions to protect yourself and others. Access resources from the Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency for guidance on safe practices. Prioritise safety by educating yourself and seeking professional assistance when needed.

I can see the horsehair plaster, which puts the build right in the realm of asbestos use. It should be assumed that any fibro is asbestos unless tested and proven otherwise.

Depending on the tray which you're using it's entirely possible that it is designed for the wall sheet to come down and sit on top of the lip of the tray and for the tiles to come down and finish inside it. I've also seen trays that are to be rebated into the studs, sheeting, and tiles come down inside the lip. Unless there were issues, or you can identify the manufacturer of you tray, it might be best to re-install the sheeting as it was previously.

You can use wet-area plasterboard for areas inside a shower. However, if you have the choice, I recommend you go with the Villaboard.

Would you be able to provide a few more details on your question about the wall shared with the bath enclosure?

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

mcol0508

Hi Mitchell,

Thanks for welcome.

I have had the existing cement board tested for asbestos before the demolition and luckily it was clear of asbestos fibres. (Unlike the shed out the back!).

I'll see if I can find the origin of the shower pan but I doubt I'll have much luck. It would be much easier to install Villaboard onto the top of the flange and run the acrylic into the pan like the original tiles, I'm glad to hear that might be an option.

With the bath enclosure, it was originally built as a knee-high wall up to the shower pan and tiled. The rest of the shower enclosure on this side was a glass panel. I'm thinking I could replace the surfaces of this little wall (tops and sides) with fresh Villaboard and then glue some cut up acrylic shower panels to surface it.

However, I think it would be easier to install a full-length shower screen where this wall rather than needing to get a half-length custom for the space. But the lip of the shower pan on this side is the same as the corner sides so I'm not sure if it'll take a shower screen directly onto it and line up with the front.

I've attached some photos I've taken of the half-wall as it is today.

MitchellMc

Are you able to remove the small wall altogether @mcol0508, so the new full-length screen sits next to the tray instead of on it? Otherwise, I think you'd have to go with the acrylic sheets and the custom-size screen.

Mitchell

mcol0508

The wall can be removed but it is concealing the bathtub framing so I'll have exposed boards between the shower and bathtub and still need to cover up the framing.

I'm thinking I should remove all the tiles and replace any damaged villaboard on the half wall and try the acrylic.

For the shower screen, I assumed the frame would sit on the shower pan for waterproofing? If so I just need to leave enough space between the acrylic from the half wall and the shower pan to fit the screen? The sketch shows how I think it would work but I'm not sure where a shower screen is supposed to sit on the shower pan. If it sits on the upper part (where I have the villaboard and acrylic sitting), I could sit the villaboard a bit further back and not bother with acrylic to make space for the screen. The previous screen was sitting on the shower pan along the front of the shower. This is a "just for now" sort of job while we save for a full renovation in a few years time so some exposed, waterproofed board behind glass wouldn't be a huge deal breaker.

PXL_20240718_030454303.MP.jpg

EricL

Hello @mcol0508

Looking at the pictures you posted, I propose removing the half wall and covering the back frame of the bath with villaboard and tiling it over. By removing the half wall, this will allow you to get a standard shower door and return set such as the Estilo 900 x 1830mm Chrome Semi Frameless Shower Screen. This is on the condition that the shower tray is of a standard size.

This will save you from having to get a custom glass panel return and a custom door set that will work with the half glass return. Plus, there won't be any need for acrylic unless you want it inside as your shower wall. There would be technically a gap between your shower and the bathtub.

Let me call on our experienced member @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Afternoon @mcol0508

I like the suggestion that @EricL has made plus your own. Tho think Id be trying to keep that half wall for now as removing will mean you have to cover it and also cover the floor part + change whatever waterproofiong is there.

Im not sure what a standard size base/shower is. Ive looked at a lot of themover the years but never ended up installing one. I do liek the idea of teh acrylic sheet over tiles tho. Mainly because of waterproofing issues.

Dave

mcol0508

Thanks Eric,

My shower pan is a standard 900 X 900 mm.

If I take the half wall back to the bath frame I'll expose a strip of wood sub-floor that is currently under the wall

Should I then lay villaboard on the newly exposed floor and against the back of the bath frame and include both of these pieces in my water proofing membrane as a precaution? Do I need to use tiles on this surface or can I use the same acrylic I plan on putting on the walls here?

EricL

Hi @mcol0508

The exposed timber section would definitely need to be covered, waterproofed and tiled over.

Please note that waterproofing is applied as a single homogenous body and needs to be done by a trained professional. Please refer to your local council regarding the rules and regulations on waterproofing your shower room.

Just to be clear regarding the acrylic sheet you are mentioning, are you referring to this - Estilo 1900x900x2.2mm White Shower Wall or another product?

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

mcol0508

My plan was to use Mr Wet Wall panels from another supplier, which are 10 mm and a bit sturdier than the Estillo ones which seem a bit thin to easily work with.

I do have the old shower screen already relatively undamaged. I could probably just put new villaboard and acrylic on the shower face of the half wall and the top of the half wall and try and reassemble the old frame where it was. That way I don't need to worry about the floor and and more easily keep the water proofing confined to the shower recess. I'll just have to make sure the old screen is in good enough condition to be reinstalled.

EricL

Hello @mcol0508

Since you've mentioned that you have plans for the future, and this is like a stop gap repair. It would be practical to leave the half wall and re-install everything to the way that it was. There would be less demolition and it would be relatively easier to repair.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @mcol0508 I would remove the small frame separating the shower and bath and replace it with a new one to full height. Then remove the panel on the left shower wall so you now have a clean U-shaped frame. While your at frame stage, nows threw time to buy a new shower head and mixer. Rainhead style heads tend to be more practical than the traditional ones on an arm. I would also relocate the mixer so it's right next to the door so you don't have to reach in. I would also consider installing a niche for your shampoos etc. These days they come ready made in a range of sizes.

The dividing wall can then be lined with either Aquacheck plasterboard or villa board and then tiles directly on to it. I would line the internal shower walls with 6mm villaboard. This should sit on the lip of the shower base.

There are actually no-laws that state in Australia that requires a qualified waterproofer, though in my opinion there should! But there are guidelines that should be followed, which means you can do it yourself as long as you follow those guidelines to the letter. Bunnings sell all the materials in the first bay at the trade end and have the guidelines on their website. Though more than capable I have always used a qualified waterproofer that can provide certification on completion for any future insurance claims. many tilers offer this service.

Once waterproofed the walls can be tiled. I would then get a new swing glass door installed thats been made to measure. They aren't that expensive if you shop around and far more easier than trying to make an old one fit.

Once fitted the entire shower can be caulked and your all done.

Hope that helps. Nailbag

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