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How to remove shower pan for bathroom reno project?

I’m starting to plan for a full bathroom make over ,but I’ve never done one before. I have a little experience in framing and plastering, but with this project I will try a few new skill sets on..

First question is, as I’m planning on decommissioning the current old shower stall, and installing a new walk in shower on the other side of the room, can I just remove the whole shower pan down to the floor board without any issues? It’s a 1980 vintage 3 panel glass door type affair with a raised tiled base

My initial plan is to do as much of the grunt work myself ( the demolishing) and prep work ( possibly including water proofing ) and have all the work area ready for the Electricals and plumbing to be roughed in by Tradies as required . Tiling would be done by a Pro, but sourcing the fittings and tiles would be up to me .

So what lessons and pitfalls should I be aware of going forward … ?

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Ian120. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about your bathroom renovation.

It’s great that you’re taking on a bathroom renovation and planning to do as much of the work yourself as possible. I'd recommend you start by reading through this helpful guide: How to plan a bathroom renovation. Whilst you are at it, check out our Top 10 most popular bathroom renovations for inspiration.

Removing the existing shower pan should be straightforward, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Since your shower has a raised tiled base, it’s likely that there’s a mortar bed or screed underneath. When removing it, take care not to damage the underlying floor structure, especially if you have timber flooring. If it’s a concrete slab, chipping away at the screed should be manageable, but be mindful of the existing plumbing.

Moving the shower to the other side of the room will involve relocating plumbing, which can be a significant challenge depending on your floor type. If you have a concrete slab, cutting into it for new drainage is possible but can be costly. If your home has a timber subfloor, you may need to lift floorboards to run new pipes.

Waterproofing is one area where mistakes can be costly. In many areas, it's a requirement that a professional install the waterproofing and sign off on it, so it's best to check your local regulations before considering doing it yourself.

Remember to include budgeting extra for unforeseen issues, especially when opening up walls or floors. Ensure you plan adequate ventilation—consider adding an exhaust fan if you don’t already have one.

It sounds like you’ve got a solid plan, and doing the demolition and prep work yourself will save you a fair bit. Just take it step by step, and don’t hesitate to get a second opinion from professionals where needed. Since your home is from the 1980s, be mindful of the potential presence of asbestos, especially in wall sheeting, flooring, and old tile adhesives. Disturbing asbestos-containing materials can pose serious health risks, so if you're unsure, it's best to have a professional test and remove any suspected materials safely before proceeding with demolition.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Ian120

Thanks for this.

I’ll give the videos a look see, but on another aspect which may have an impact on both budget and the build timeline.

Is it better to simply strip any of the affected walls back to the frame if there is any chance of needing to move plumbing or electricals, rather than trying to just open and patch as required. Currently the intent is to go floor to ceiling with 600 x 300 or 600 x 600 tiles. Is the surface of the wall after removing previous tiles to make the relaying of new tiles a big challenge ?

MitchellMc

Hi @Ian120,

If budget permits, it's generally better to strip the affected walls back to the frame. This gives you full access to make adjustments and ensures everything is properly positioned before closing up. It can save time and hassle in the long run compared to opening small sections and patching later, which might lead to uneven surfaces.

Since you're planning to use large tiles, having a perfectly flat and stable surface is important to avoid lippage (where one tile edge sits higher than the adjacent tile). After removing the old tiles, the wall surface might be uneven or damaged, especially if the previous adhesive pulls off chunks of plaster or drywall. In many cases, it’s easier and more reliable to replace the wall lining—using something like cement board—rather than trying to patch and smooth the old surface. This approach ensures a solid, moisture-resistant base for your new tiles and helps achieve a professional finish.

Mitchell

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