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Tried to undo these tap skirts but no luck. The skirt refuses to come off either by rotating anti clockwise or just lifting it off. The two taps have slightly different designs. One has a raised circular portion above the squarish portion and the other has a circular depression.
Hi @baissie,
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.
I'd start by spraying them with some CLR, allowing it to sit for 5-10 minutes, then giving it a good scrub with a Wire Brush. I would then try gripping the skirt with some multigrip pliers, with a cloth to protect the finish, then rotating them anticlockwise. If this does nothing, then try doing the same while levering them up with a flathead screwdriver.
If this doesn't do anything, then try running a utility knife with a snap-off blade that can be extended, like this Craftright 18mm Snap Off Knife, under the bottom edge of the skirt, as there's a chance they have been siliconed in place. Remember to wear long protective clothing and gloves while working with knives as there is always a risk of lacerations.
If it still doesn't work, try tapping the skirt with a hammer while rotating with the pliers to see if it helps get things moving.
If you have no luck after this, then I would be inspecting under the sink to see if there is an attachment mechanism on the bottom.
If there's still nothing, I would contact a plumber for their assistance.
Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Jacob
In response, I have taken some pictures of thr undneath of the sink. Can't tell of there is an attachment but there is a copper pipe that screws into a male threaded piece which is attached to the black rubber bush.
Don't know what to make of it or whether it can be undone.
Hi @baissie,
From the photos, it looks like the skirts (cover flanges) are threaded onto the spindles underneath. Normally, these flanges are screwed down onto the spindle threads, so turning them anti-clockwise should lift them off. If you’ve tried several full rotations and they still won’t budge, the threads may be damaged or stuck due to corrosion, sealant, or debris. At this stage, it may be best to contact a plumber to safely remove them without damaging the tap or plumbing.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Managed to get the skirt off finally but now cant get the spindle off. But now can't get the spindle off. The tube spanner i have doesn't fit into the recess to access the nut so i have to use a shifter. Do I just need to unscrew the spindle anti clockwise?
So I managed the do one tap knob (cold water) but the other one still leaks (underneath the sink now). Im thinking of getting this Shaw & Mason Chrome Six Point Basin Top Assembly - Pair
But the problem is that the design is a bit different. In my old one there was a pair of flat faces on the threaded portion of the bonnet which I used to grip with the shifter and unscrew from the fitting underneath the sink.
In the linked product, those flat faces arent there which means I can't use the shifter without damaging the threads.
Note that i cant access the square nut like feature at the bottom of the threads as it is not accessible using a shifter or even a tube spanner as it is off centre and the tube gets obstructed by the basin cut out. I don't want to force it. What can I do?
If there a spindle with fair faces available?
Hello @baissie
There are some critical choices to be made at this particular junction of your plumbing repair.
It will be necessary to think of alternative methods of accessing the tap spindles due to its age and location. My best advice is to think about the methods I've mentioned and choose one that you think will work best for you.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @snailyp and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good Afternoon @baissie
Going by your descriptions and pain in the neck trying to remove the taps (we have all been there for sure) It seems taht whomever put it together may have used whatever spare bits they had lying around. So it worked fine when they installed it but have left a pain for the person "you" to come along later and repair the old piping and attachments to that style of sink.
I am thinking of removing the sink so you have access to the nuts on the underside plus you can then put more pressure on the fittings without damaging the basin itself. Having two dissimilar taps is a pain, but removing them both so they are back to the base junction would be a good place to start from. (Am concerned about if the thread is damaged/pipe cracks from turning pressure there is no way to shut the water off without shutting all the water off to the house) I would start to head towards a plumber and get them to install some taps against the inlet sides under the sink so you can isolate them for future changes/washers.
Dave
Hi @baissie,
I understand it's a one off job but would still like to suggest not to use any adjustable type spanners.
I would be attempting to move and center the tap.
Can you can get in there and undo that one so the tap can be pulled over allowing you to use the tube spanner.
With assistance they can push it over, if not loop a cord around the pipe and pull over while the other hand manipulates the tube spanner.
If the thing is frozen this is my usual method:
Alfoil, Tube spanner tommy bar or Philips screwdriver, Butane torch and small hammer (maybe Freeze spray).
Tear pieces of foil to cover the area, stack together and push down over the spindle to protect the basin.
Set the torch to a soft flame and carefully lick around the spindle housing.
Have a go with the tube spanner and if needed tap with hammer.
No go...try again a few times.
No go... as a last resort using the coefficient of expansion thing.
Heat the steel spindle housing... then freeze the brass spindle holding the can sideways.
Try again with the tube spanner.
If no... try again a few times
Finally if no go call the plumber.
Cheers
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