There was a waterleak in the upstairs shower... The 2 layers of tiles have been taken up and the water damage traced and taken out.
The repaired section of the floor is slightly lower than the original floor so I want to know how to prepare the floor (so it is ready) to add a custom built base (yet to be ordered)
I am aware that waterproofing is essential and am adding timber to all the sides to help form "the tub"
Next after the timber sides will be cement sheet (which will be waterproofed)
Is it important to get the floor completely level or will the cement slurry provide the necessary base (after waterproofing?
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I trust it would help our members if you could go into a bit more detail about your project. What exactly does the custom-built base consist of, and how will it interact with the tub you are forming and the timber sides you're installing? You might like to show us some images of the area to better understand the stage you're up to.
It's best to have the floor as level as possible, and if anything sloping towards the drain is best. Generally, the basic steps would be to sheet the walls and raise the height of the floor to be correct. You would then waterproof your walls, floor and joints. The base would be placed over the top and the tiling completed. You should find this step-by-step guide useful: How to waterproof a shower. Are you planning on doing the waterproofing yourself? If you are employing a professional, they'll be able to tell you exactly what needs to be done before they commence waterproofing the surfaces.
I'll be keen to see some images of the area and assist further. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I tried unsuccessfully to upload photos previously, the message was
I will try again.
Photo number one is of the floor after rotted timber was removed and replaced. (the shower base was first put down 30 years ago and during that time another layer of tiles was added, possibly to try and seal the leaking shower.. The larger size ply on the right of the photo is to cover the back of a power point so as to protect the plumber. The remaining walls will also have infill added and then cement sheet over the top of that.
The next stage is to measure the size of the area in order to organise a custom base (That will be explored soon) The floor level can be raised then according to the base thickness and requirements for sealing
The photos also show the old water sealing (black layer) which is almost impossible to remove.
The 2nd photo shows a further problem and that is the size of the drain. It is about 44 mm wide which may be the result of having had a pipe introduced into the original pipe during a previous renovation. That problem will have to be explored and rectified.
If that floor is timber, you might like to start by cutting a sheet of James Hardie HardiePanel™ 1800 x 1200 x 15mm FC Flooring down and installing it over the top so you have a solid base to work with. Make sure you cut your new waste hole in the correct location. Once your Villaboard sheets have been installed on the walls, your waterproofing can be painted up and around a Kinetic 100mm In Pipe Puddle Flange. This is installed onto the drainage pipe to assist with draining away any water that leaks into the screed in case of a shower base failure. You can then screed to level the surface over the top.
You can follow these helpful guides in this order:
Although there might not be any specific regulations regarding electrical wiring in the wall cavity next to a shower, I'd consider checking with an electrician to see how they feel about having that power point backing onto the shower. As you've experienced, showers can leak, and it's not a great practice to have power points that close to a potential water source. Perhaps an electrician could relocate it for you?
I am going to need a custom made shower base with a lip on 4 sides.
The base that was removed had 2 layers of tiles by the time we got to the original floor which was heavily tarred and in some places rotted so the largest part of the particle board floor was removed. That left a drop of approx 80mm on the hob side
It is now intended to replace the floor with particle board flooring before laying a foundation of Compressed Hardipanel JH 15mm thick and then adding the Custom Made Shower Base.
Is it possible to get a custom made shower base with a lip on 4 sides to tuck in behind tiles for waterproofing
Were you after a tile-over tray or a shower base? Generally, when installing a shower base the tiles are started just above the edge and abutted to it. A tile-over tray has lips on it for tucking under the tiles. Our trays come with lips on three sides as the fourth is used for access. Are you creating an entrance with a step over hob on the fourth side that will be tiled?
My inclination is to go for a shower base (no fiddly tiling)
I want an edge that can be tucked in behind the tiles/wall to ensure no leaks
The entrance already has a hob which I am trying to work with. Tiling of the hob is an option, I could reduce the size of the hob but it is made of bricks laid on side, or I could raise the floor higher..
I am not confident that the floor of the bathroom is properly sealed otherwise I could remove the hob...
Its all a case of "suck it and see"
If you are waterproofing the walls and down onto the floor beneath the shower base, this ensures that any leaks don't do any damage. Water still penetrates through the tile grout and moves down the wall. The waterproofing layer captures it and prevents it from entering the timberwork. Where the tiles meet the top of the shower base, a silicone seal is caulked. I understand what you are saying though if there were a lip behind the tiles, there wouldn't be a chance of the silicone leaking.
Let me mention @redracer01 to find out if he's ever seen a shower base that lips up behind the tiles.
Having read the conditions of your request perhaps the only way to achieve it is to waterproof the lip of the acrylic tray to provide that formation you want to happen. By water proofing to the edge and over the acrylic base lip, it will provide that tuck behind the tile that you wish to put in. I would say depending on the tray that you purchase will determine how the layout will happen. But @MitchellMc 's description of installation is correct FC sheeting is necessary to provide you with a stable base for tiling. Both at the bottom and the side walls of your shower. Water proofing is then applied to the entire area. You can then place the tray over the waterproofed area. This will now provide you with a very good seal against water leaks. Then add more water proofing to meet and go over the shower base lip. When tiling is carried out the tiles should end up right over the lip of the tray and a strong silicone seal can be applied at the bottom of the shower where the acrylic shower lip meets the wall tile. I suspect that there are private companies out there that make and build custom shower bases but as I recall they are for tilling. Perhaps a second opinion from a mate who is builder or tiler can give you more ideas before committing to a course of action. My only other suggestion is to remove the third wall and install a regular 2 sided shower with an acrylic wall liner giving you the highest form of water proofing in a shower. I've posted some videos below just to give you ideas.
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Having had a good look at all the options I think a tile-over-tray might now be my best option in order to guaranteed proper waterproofing in which case I will need to have the lip on 4 sides.. (that is possible I hope... )
I would feel very comfortable to have a tray that has 6mm villa board over the lip especially if I have used the rubber self adhesive tape to further seal the lip to the wall before putting the villa board on it (the cement sheet wall will also be waterproofed)
I am paying particular attention to waterproofing as I cant afford the cost or embarrassment of having a upstairs leaking shower once this job has been completed